2011-07-31

GINAULT Silent Service MARK-II

By TLex At the moment I don't have any firm specifications for the new SILENT SERVICE Mark-ii, but would imagine it to share the same or very similar spec. to GINAULT's first Mil-Sub, the BASE MODULE I, which has a 40mm 316L stainless steel case with 1000 feet of water-resistance, a sapphire crystal and either an ETA 2824-2 or equivalent Sellita calibre .



The case looks identical to the BM1, but GINAULT have taken off most of the crown guard to give the watch that ever so desirable vintage-mil feel. The dial takes its inspiration from an early Seamaster 300. There's some stealthy black on black text on the dial, which kind of explains the name 'Silent Service'; such a cool name! I would imagine pricing to be in a similar region of 775USD. The SILENT SERVICE Mark-ii will be available this fall.



I saw this on GINAULT's blog. A proposed additional dial with red text. The GINAULT brand is still very new; no actual watches have been seen yet, but there's plenty of interest in what they're doing and just recently GINAULT banner ads have been popping up all over the place, so expect to hear more from them soon . . .



2011-07-30

GUCCI G-Timeless DIVER (new)

By TLex Here's another trendy little diver for the fashion-conscious of you out there ;) The GUCCI G-Timeless Diver is 'diver' in name alone, as its water-resistance is just 100m. I'm not sure why they couldn't have increased this by another 100m or so? I guess it wasn't going to be an issue, when the most diving this 'diver' was destined for was a quick dive into the bottom of some fashionista's Gucci man-bag . . .



The G-Timeless Diver's 44mm stainless case comes in either a brushed or black PVD finish. It has been fitted with an anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal, and as previously mentioned is water resistant to 100 meters. It's MSRP is 995USD (brushed) 1150USD PVD.



This is not GUCCI's first dive watch. They released a reasonable looking diver in 2008 called the PANTHEON Diver; it had an ETA automatic caliber and a 300m WR. A little bland, but in my opinion it was a far better attempt than the G-Timeless DIVER is . . .



DEEP BLUE T100 Day Night DIVER (new)

By TLex Actually this one looks really nice, lovely color, chunky bezel, tritium tubes; seen the bracelet somewhere before though! The T100's stainless steel case measures 46mm x 16mm with 22mm lugs. It's been fitted with a sapphire crystal and has a water resistant of 300m. Features include a rotating divers bezel and Tritium tubes on hands and markers. The T100 houses a Japanese automatic Seiko NH25 caliber with 21 jewels, 21,600 vph and a power reserve of 42 hrs.


2011-07-28

BURBERRY Sport DIVER (new)

By TLex Fashion brand, Burberry release the 'BURBERRY Diver'. The watch case, which is constructed from stainless steel measures 44mm x 14mm. It has been fitted with a mineral crystal and is water-resistant to 200 meters. It houses a Swiss Quartz Rhonda caliber. Other features include: an internal divers bezel operable by one of the crowns; I'm not sure which one it is though, most likely the red one that is so reminiscent of the HANHART Primus Diver's pusher .



There's some knurling on the external fixed bezel and crowns, but the continuation of the textured theme to its rubber strap is all a bit much for me. The dial is nice and clean, but apart from that, I'll pass. I wasn't too crazy about their last effort, either! The watch is available in two variants: brushed with a blue dial or black-IP with a black dial. MSRP is 395USD.

ARMIDA A2 Diver (coming soon)



By TLex ARMIDA Watches' 2nd divers model the A2 is almost ready. The 42mm, 500m diver will house a choice of either an ETA 2824 or Miyota 8215. Stay tuned for more details soon . . .









2011-07-25

OMEGA Seamaster PLANET OCEAN Titanium Liquidmetal® Chrono Cal.9300 (up close and personal)

By TLex Whilst at the Basel watch fair this year I was lucky enough to get a preview of OMEGA’s new and improved PLANET OCEAN collection. However I didn’t get nearly as much time with the new watches as I would have liked, so I can’t tell you how thrilled I was, when my friends at OMEGA invited me to meet with them for a 2nd closer and more in-depth look at this stunning new line of divers models, which included their new flagship diver, the PLANET OCEAN Titanium Liquidmetal® Chrono Cal.9300 . . .



OMEGA The OMEGA brand was first established in 1848. In 1969 the Speedmaster Professional Chronograph was worn by NASA astronauts and was subsequently the first watch worn on the moon. The late 60s and 70s saw OMEGA produce a number of divers models, which were worn by some of the greatest underwater pioneers of that time. Jacques Yves Cousteau wore a Seamaster 600 'Ploprof' among other OMEGA models and worked closely with them on the watch's development. The legendary Ploprof saw a reissue in 2009.



Recently the OMEGA brand have been re-positioning themselves in the luxury watch market especially over the last couple of years, but for me 2011 has to be their most significant move to date with the introduction of their new in-house Co-Axial calibres, the 8500/8501, the 8520/8521 and the new 9300 chronograph, which have been used to drive the updated PLANET OCEAN collection.

SEAMASTER OMEGA's first water-resistant watches date back to the early 1930s. However it wasn't until 1947 that the 'Seamaster' name was first introduced and given to an OMEGA timepiece, and it wasn't until 1958 that the Seamaster name was bestowed upon OMEGA's first true divers model. The Seamaster 300 [Ref. CK 2913] had a water-resistance of 200m, featured a rotational divers bezel and sported OMEGA's now iconic broad arrow hour hand, which to this day is still used on all Planet Ocean watches.



PLANET OCEAN In 2005 OMEGA launched the PLANET OCEAN line of professional divers watches, which housed movements using their then new Co-Axial technology. All 1st generation and 2nd generation PO [Planet Ocean] watches are equipped with unidirectional rotatable divers bezels, manual release helium escape valves and have a water-resistance of 60 bar or 600 meters. They are fitted with double anti-reflective coated sapphire crystals and use bright long lasting lume on their hands and markers.



CHANGES Apart from the obvious mechanical changes, which I will talk about later; OMEGA have revamped a number of the PLANET OCEAN's components and have improved the watches' functionality in a number of key areas. They have also made use of the very latest in cutting edge materials such as titanium and ceramic, which are prized for their toughness and durability.



TITANIUM The use of Titanium isn't new for OMEGA. They used it for the construction of Seamaster Professional Titanium, but in a lower Grade 2 alloy. The two new 45.5mm PLANET OCEAN Titanium Liquidmetal® models both boost all-new Grade 5 Ti construction. The G5 alloy is most commonly used today in the aerospace industry, but has also been adopted by a number of upper echelon watchmakers for use on their divers models. It is not only extremely lightweight, but a resolutely tough material that is also extremely comfortable to wear owing to its lightweight and the fact that is hypoallergenic. This means it won't react with your skin in the same way that stainless steel can do.


LIQUIDMETAL In 2009 a special limited edition of the PO 42mm was released with a Liquidmetal® Ceramic bezel. The Liquidmetal® technology takes an amorphous metal material, which is zirconium-based and fuses it with the ceramic of the PO's external bezel, bonding seamlessly to create a surface that has a hardness that is 3 times as great as that of stainless steel and several times greater still than that of the aluminum inserts used on other Planet Ocean models. OMEGA now owns the complete rights to Liquidmetal® and plan to make a gradual shift to it in the future. At the moment the new PO is only available with blue ceramic, but black, white and possibly orange are a strong likelihood for future PO models.



PLONGEUR One of the coolest aesthetic features of the new PO Chronograph models has to be the inclusion of the Plongeur [French for diver] handset for the sub-dial at 3 o'clock. Apart from its obvious charms, this mini plongeur handset recalls the handsets of two of OMEGA's most iconic divers of the past, the Seamaster 600 'Ploprof' and the Seamaster 1000. For me it’s a fitting tribute to the Plongeur handset and a salute to OMEGA's rich dive watch heritage.



LACQUER The new blue ceramic bezel of PO Titanium Liquidmetal® Chrono has been complimented with a rich glossy gray-blue lacquered dial. I did wonder if this surface would reflect much light or affect the legibility of the dial in anyway, but I have to say the dial is every bit as legible as the matt black dial of the current PO. It looks way more sophisticated and luxurious, too, which I believe is an important role in distinguishing between this (the top of the range PO) and other PO’s that aren’t equipped with the new in-house movements.



LUME The Planet Ocean watches have always had pretty exceptional lume. However this has now been given increased functionality through the use of two colors. The hands and markers of all new PO’s now glow blue except that is for the minute hand, which should be easily distinguished from that of the hour hand, and the 12 o’clock bezel pip which is integral for calculating dive time, these are now further distinguished by their green lume. The lume is lovely and bright, but I think I didn’t quite capture how different the two colors are from each other with my photography.



CROWNS OMEGA have both increased the size and appearance of the new PO's crowns and pushers. The crown grip is now made from a simplified ten sided shape for both main operating crown and that of the Helium release valve. They are now also easier to grip and manipulate. Because of the increased size of the main crown, OMEGA have cleverly incorporated a 'v' shaped opening into the right lateral lower side of the case to accommodate its extra girth.



CALIBRE 9300 The OMEGA Co-Axial calibre 9300 is an exclusive in-house calibre. It is OMEGA’s first chronograph movement born from their revolutionary new family of in-house Co-Axial movements. Of its many innovative features is a new Si 14 silicon balance spring, which has allowed OMEGA to offer the new PLANET OCEAN watches with a full four-year warranty.



The 9300’s column-wheel chronograph has a 12-hour and 60-minute counter handset placed on the same sub-dial at the 3 o'clock position. This arrangement of the hands, which echoes the hour and minute hands of the main dial, enables ‘intuitive reading’ of the chronograph. There is also a central chronograph seconds hand and a sub-seconds hand on the sub-dial at 9 o'clock.

CHRONO The chrono movement is controlled by two chrono-pushers, which can operate independently of each other; so OMEGA say there is no risk to the chronograph mechanism as a result of accidental triggering of the mechanism. Another added bonus of the movement's time zone function is that the hour hand can be set without stopping the watch; a pretty useful feature for those in need of a 2nd time zone display.



CASEBACK The new PO’s have retained their 600m water-resistance even with the addition of exhibition casebacks. The sapphire crystal caseback offers a gorgeous uninterrupted view on to the 9300’s workings. The movement features a decorative pattern known as ‘Côtes de Genève in Arabesque’.

ON THE WRIST One of the first things that struck me when I first handled the new PO Ti Chrono 9300 was that it was noticeably thicker and more substantial than my 45.5mm 1st Gen PO. It should have felt heftier, but because of its Titanium construction and rubber strap it felt incredibly light and comfortable. The watch has short and ever so slightly downward curving lugs so it was easy to find a comfortable position on the wrist. The watch also sat up a little higher on the wrist than mine, but this was to be expected with the extra couple millimeters of height that came from the chronograph movement.



The new PO has incredible wrist-presence, I really felt as though ‘this was it’ and that it couldn’t get much better. The particular shade of grayish-blue that was chosen for the dial, the ceramic bezel and the rubber strap is ever so subtle; I’m not personally that big on colorful watches, but have to say that the blue perfectly complimented the dusky hues of the titanium, and for mind is extremely tasteful.



FINAL THOUGHTS The overall appearance of the new Planet Ocean watches is not really a huge departure from what we know and love. They are still the great dive watches that have experienced such a following over the last 5 or 6 years, but have now been taken to the next level with the use of Titanium and Liquidmetal® ceramic, and without compromising their classic looks either. The enhancements, which are both aesthetic and functional more than do justice to the in-house calibers and cutting-edge technologies that have been incorporated into them. The watches look and feel technically more advanced.

For me the PLANET OCEAN Titanium Liquidmetal® Chrono Cal.9300 epitomizes the evolution of the PLANET OCEAN. It leads the way for future PO models to follow. And I believe that ultimately this the direction in which the whole PO line will eventually head. And the use of in-house calibers is a clear elevation of not only the PLANET OCEAN collection, but the OMEGA brand as a whole. I can’t wait to see what the future brings . . .

2011-07-24

T•a•c•t•i•c•o TC1 2ndLook

By TLex T•a•c•t•i•c•o is a specialized military division of CREPAS Watches, Spain. Their first project the TC1 is a technical dive watch with a distinct modern military feel to it. Its case, which measures 43.8mm x 16.25mm and is constructed from solid 316L stainless steel might be recognizable as sharing the same design that is used by the legendary KOBOLD, but that's another story.



This case features a brushed finish, has been fitted with a 3.3mm thick double domed sapphire crystal, an HEV (9 o'clock) and 60-click unidirectional rotational divers bezel with enlarged luminous triangle at 12. Its water-resistance of 100 atmos or 1000 meters is maintained by double gaskets of Viton and Tefzel and a screwdown crown and caseback. It also anti-magnetic to 70,000 A/m.



The dial, which is almost sterile except for some subtle black on black text makes use of C3 Superluminova for its hour markers and hands. Stealthy black SuperLuminova has been used for the T•a•c•t•i•c•o logo and brand name. Under the hood is a top-grade ETA 2824-2 Swiss mechanical movement. Each watch comes on a 22mm handmade custom leather strap from master strap maker Jacob Straps of Spain.

For further details on the TC1 please follow the T•a•c•t•i•c•o logo at the bottom of the post . . .



2011-07-22

SHANGHAI TANG Scuba Class 888

By TLex The SHANGHAI TANG Scuba Class 888, a truly Chinese diver! It takes its inspiration from the PRC's Yuan Class Type 041, the newest diesel-electric submersible watercraft in the People's Liberation Army Navy and is the first dive watch to be inspired by China's innovations in underwater engineering. Sleek, robust and modern its features recall the black and white decals of the vessel's gauges and machinery.



Its stainless steel case measures 44mm in diameter and features an exhibition caseback with a view of its 22-jewel automatic mechanical movement. The Scuba Class 888's all-black watch face features strong white numerals and markers with luminescent minute and hour hands. Additional details, such as the second hand, are accented in bold orange or royal blue.



Other features include a unique screw down crown with engraved Shanghai Tang's star motif, and water-resistance up to a depth of 888 feet. Eight is the most auspicious of all numbers in Chinese culture and is said to bring wealth and fortune. This auspicious number is further highlighted by the Chinese character which has been used instead the Arabic '8' numeral on the dial.



The Scuba Class 888 is available in gunmetal with a royal blue or orange polyurethane strap, or in all black. MSRP 665USD. To find out more about the watch or the SHANGHAI TANG fashion brand follow the icon at the bottom of the post . . .

OMEGA & Michael Phelps 'Shanghai Boutique Visit'

By TLex Below legendary Olympic Swimmer and OMEGA brand ambassador, Michael Phelps doing a spot of watchmaking with some local kids at OMEGA's Shanghai Boutique. Here he can be seen sporting the new Planet Ocean with the OMEGA exclusive Co-Axial calibre 9300/9301 in-house movement . . .



From OMEGA Legendary Olympian and OMEGA brand ambassador Michael Phelps is in Shanghai for the FINA World Championships but before he starts his final preparations for the competition, he took some time to see his friends at OMEGA. The brand serves once again as Official Timekeeper for the Championships. Michael had the opportunity to visit the OMEGA Boutique at the Swatch Art Peace Hotel. Being one of the greatest swimmers in history, Michael got the chance to talk to some young Chinese swimming fans, who were all enthusiastic about meeting him.

As to what time means to him, Michael said, “Time is of paramount importance to me. In swimming, a hundredth of a second can determine the result. That’s why precise timing is critical to competitive swimming. OMEGA is visible everywhere I compete. It’s just like having a family around when I’m travelling.” He added, “OMEGA has offered unwavering support for a long time. I really think that being part of a company like this is extremely special. It’s been amazing to have been an ambassador for so many years. I’m looking forward to sharing time with them this summer at the World Championships in Shanghai, and of course I'm looking ahead to the London 2012 Olympic Games.”

At the boutique, Michael also assumed a different role. In addition to autographing watch boxes containing the newly upgraded Seamaster Planet Ocean collection, the 14-time Olympic gold medalist, donned a white lab coat and a watchmaker's loupe. He was then joined by the children who were also outfitted in OMEGA lab coats and worked with them as they used precision horological hand tools to disassemble a watch movement. The next challenge was to put the OMEGA movement back together and Michael and the children applauded each other enthusiastically when they successfully completed this daunting task.



The Swatch Art Peace Hotel where the OMEGA Boutique is located is directly on Shanghai's iconic Bund, is a historic landmark in Shanghai. It has been painstakingly renovated and now offers the same magnificent splendor that has defined it since it first opened its doors as the Palace Hotel in 1908. The FINA World Championships are taking place from July 16th to 31st at the Shanghai Oriental Sports Center. OMEGA wishes Michael Phelps every success in his upcoming competitions.

2011-07-21

ANONIMO Hi Dive Carbon 'Ivan Basso'

By TLex ANONIMO plan to launch an exclusive 150 piece limited-edition watch dedicated to professional cyclist and watch aficionado, Ivan Basso winner of the Giro d’Italia 2010. This special edition of ANONIMO's Hi Dive 121 ATA watch utilizes carbon fiber for its dial and fixed bezel. I have only just recently featured the new ANONIMO Carbon Diver, but apart from this, this is still a relatively new material for the Italian watch maker. However I have feeling that we might be seeing more use of it from them in the future.



From ANONIMO Anonimo will produce a total of 150 Ivan Basso Hi Dive Carbon watches. The watch face bears his name, and it should come as no surprise that Basso asked Anonimo to design it. After all, the racing champion is also a fan of watches, and his collection already includes several Anonimo designs.

Basso’s choice was a carbon version of the high-performance Anonimo Hi Dive watch. The face and the case are made of ultra light, superbly resistant materials and contain carbon elements that have been fused together at high temperatures. This not only gives the watch its modern anthracite colour, it is also a nod to Basso’s own bicycle that is built with a range of carbon parts – an incredibly light, strong and durable material. Moreover, Full Speed Ahead (FSA), who produce the carbon parts for the watch, also provide specialised carbon parts for racing cycles.



IVAN BASSO “I love Anonimo watches. And as an Italian I am very proud to wear a great Italian design. This new model is highly practical and so beautiful. That is precisely what I expect from a watch!”



Anonimo is excited about this collaboration, says sales director David Cypers. “Ivan Basso loves a challenge and he always strives to be the best, just like Anonimo. We are a high-performance brand that builds watches for extreme sports and harsh conditions. For example, we are the preferred supplier of diving watches for the Italian diving company CNS and the Italian navy. Our fans also include Spanish motorcyclist Axel Pons and German football player Oliver Kahn. What all of them have in common with each other and with us is the enjoyment of a race against the clock. High level sports require timekeeping in extreme conditions, and that is what sets us apart from the others.”

The Anonimo Ivan Basso Hi Dive Carbon is priced at € 3,700.

2011-07-20

CHANEL J12 Marine For ONLY WATCH 2011



By TLex Here's another unique piece for ONLY WATCH 2011. The J12 Marine Diver with 38mm sand-blasted black ceramic case and 18kt Rose Gold highlights on its dial crown, bezel and caseback. The one of a kind diver houses an ETA base Swiss automatic with 42hrs power reserve and is water-resistant to 300meters.






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