Showing posts with label INTERVIEWS. Show all posts
Showing posts with label INTERVIEWS. Show all posts

2014-06-11

Mission31 interview with DOXA Team Member, Ty ALLEY

By TLex Below is an interview with DOXA Team Member Ty Alley, who gives us the lowdown on the Mission 31, Fabien Cousteau, the Mission31 WATCH and the role that DOXA played. 



> Why did Fabien Cousteau choose to use a mechanical dive watch for the mission instead of a modern dive computer? DOXA SUBs are only usually used as a reliable backup by dive professionals.



TY: That’s actually a very good question! Above all else, Fabien chose a mechanical dive watch for its reliability during this long (31 day long) saturation dive. Dive computers are modern instruments used by divers the world over. Having said that, today’s dive computers have no algorithm programmed in to calculate such a long saturation dive as this -

Moreover, if one was used it would likely lock up, becoming non-functional after a short period of time, and resistant to the potential damaging effects of gas build up inside the computer’s case. The DOXA SUB Mission 31 is water resistant to 1000 meters. A dive computer isn't, and after being in and out of air and water for 31 consecutive days, it would likely explode upon decompression.

> There are a lot of luxury brand dive watches out there. Why did Fabien Cousteau choose the DOXA SUB?



TY: The DOXA SUB was created in 1967 for one purpose and one purpose only, to be reliable companion for commercial and recreational divers, and has been since, the No.1 choice of professional divers around the world. DOXA and the Cousteau family have a long history together, going back to the original SUB 300 released in 1967. Claude Wesley (Conshelf I and II aquanaut), helped DOXA develop the original DOXA SUB 300 back in 1967, Jean-Michel Cousteau used the DOXA SUB on his unforgettable expeditions.

> Can you share some more about DOXA and their significance in the dive watch world?



TY: DOXA's involvement with diving (and dive watches in particular) goes back to the early 1960s. Those early watches looked, and functioned similarly to pretty much every other dive watch on the market at the time. Most of those dive watches had their roots in military and professional applications. What none of the watch companies had yet considered was a watch that considered the recreational diver. In the mid to late sixties there was a boom in recreational scuba diving -



DOXA recognized the needs of sport divers, and developed the SUB as the ultimate tool for them, the original DOXA SUB was a milestone in the development of dive watches in general, being the first dive watch ever to incorporate the US Navy no decompression dive table on the bezel -

also featuring an orange dial to increase legibility under water, also offering the first watch with an extendable ratcheting device built into the bracelet that allowed divers to wear their watches with or without their wetsuit without the need of resizing the bracelet.

> A lot of people out there have likened living in the Aquarius to living in a submarine; of course this is a false assumption, but what is the difference between living in a submarine and in the Aquarius?



TY: In a submarine, the crew experience 1 atmosphere of pressure. This is the same pressure we are experiencing right here at sea level. The crew on a submarine is always experiencing “surface pressure”, so there is no need for submariners to decompress upon surfacing. Having said that, the inhabitants living inside the Aquarius are “enjoying” 3 atmospheres of pressure! At 3 atmospheres of pressure, oxygen and nitrogen will dissolve in the aquanauts’ blood and body tissues -

Essentially, they reach what could be termed a point of “gas saturation”. The aquanauts can move freely about the ocean floor for hours on end, but if they want to surface they'll have to undergo 17 hours of decompression to avoid “decompression sickness” or the bends.

> What was your role on Mission 31?



TY: My role was to coordinate all pre-dive logistics for DOXA here in the Florida Keys, as well as “dive” the watches down to Aquarius, so that Fabien Cousteau could use the 31 DOXA SUBs selected for mission wear throughout the project.

> Can you tell us more about the DOXA Mission31 watch, the availability, the specs, and how DOXA is supporting Mission 31?

TY: The Mission31 is a limited edition version of the DOXA SUB, designed especially for this project. The watch and bracelet are entirely made of a light weight alloy, titanium. The case is 44mm in diameter. DOXA has selected a very reliable Swiss made ETA 2824-2 automatic movement to power the Mission 31 DOXA SUB -

There are 331 pieces in total, 31 of which will actually be used on the mission, where Fabien will be wearing one every day along the 31 days of the mission. Each of those pieces will carry the marks of an unforgettable adventure to soon enter the history books. Each watch will also come with a certificate, hand signed by Fabien, more than 25% of sales go to support Mission 31.

> Can you tell us something about your experience on board the Aquarius, how long did you spend there?



TY: For a diver of 30 yrs, this was the highlight of my diving career. Aquarius is the last scientific research facility of its kind here in the world, and to be able to dive down to it, and to do this dive on behalf of DOXA was an absolute honor. My total bottom time was 70 minutes, and 50 of those minutes were inside the habitat.

> Who is Dirk Cussler and what is the link between Mission 31, the Cusslers and Fabien Cousteau?



TY: Dirk is the son of famed writer Clive Cussler. Clive Cussler's hero in his adventure series, is Dirk Pitt, who wears an orange faced DOXA SUB throughout his adventures. Dirk has co-written six of the Dirk Pitt adventures with his father, and will continue them long after his father lays down his pen. In the world of DOXA, the Cousteau and Cussler families are legendary, so to have them both together at the start of Mission 31 made for a truly remarkable event.

> Mission 31 is clearly important, but what are the benefits for those of us on “the surface”?



TY: There's a great deal to be studied and learned throughout the 31 days. Obviously, there is the marine biology and oceanography aspect of it. This includes predator studies, as well as coral research. The team will also be testing new technologies, including different types of imaging systems for underwater use -

Perhaps the greatest benefit though is the awareness it brings to mankind’s relationship with the ocean, and to reignite interest and passion toward ocean exploration and conservation. Think about it - 70% of our planet is covered by water, and it's safe to say that it serves as the entire planet's life support system. If we don't take care of it, then it won't take care of us, and that's just a price we can't pay.

Follow the link to order your Mission31 Doxa SUB . . .  

2011-11-13

LINDE WERDELIN An InDepth with Jorn Werdelin part2

Continued from part1 . . .

How did the collaboration between a tattoo artist Henning Jorgensen come about?



Over two years ago Morten was looking through a lifestyle magazine when he came across an interview with Johnny Depp. The article had a close up picture of him revealing his tattooed arms and what struck him at the time was to see he was wearing a rather conservative / classic watch next to modern / rock type of bracelets and his tattoos.

This made us think about what sort of watch would we see as the 'perfect match' to this style. This is when Morten first came up with the idea of creating a tattoo watch. We then looked for the most talented tattoo artist. We met with Henning Jorgensen and Morten and I instantly loved his art. So we went ahead to create 82 pieces of the Oktopus Tattoo.


The Hard Green DLC is of particular interest to those, who appreciate its tough scratch resistant properties, however DLC is typically a black finish; why green?

The DLC coating is a procedure we often use on our watches. As you mentioned, this offers a protection for the timepiece which is important for sports watches. You are also right in believing that black is the most common colour for DLC coating and this is because any other colour is difficult to be smoothly achieved.



At Linde Werdelin though we believe in surpassing what are thought to be our limits. We have experimented a lot on alternative DLC colours and were able to successfully achieve green among other which you might see soon. I just wanted to add though that the interest in the Green DLC was more than expected so I guess people are ready for non-black watches!


LW didn’t have a dedicated diver for some time before we saw the release of the Oktopus; what lead to your decision to build a dedicated divers model?

The first Oktopus model made its appearance at BaselWorld 2009 along with a newly designed The One and a GMT watch, 3-Timer, and of course the SpidoLite. So back then we launched five families with several variations within each family. We wanted to create a complete collection and of course appeal to people’s different tastes. A diver’s watch of course made even more sense to us since we have The Reef.

What was the design brief for the Oktopus? What attributes did you consider important for such a watch?



First of all the Oktopus needed to have the same case dimensions as the rest of the Linde Werdelin watches to be able to take The Reef and The Rock. Then, we needed to differentiate the model from the rest of the lines and incorporate important to us features that a diver’s watch should have. Numerals instead of indexes, more lume on the dial, easy to turn with gloves unidirectional bezel, thicker sapphire crystal to withstand the pressure at 1111m and a helium escape valve (though not very often used).

Why so far no bracelet for the Oktopus? Any plans for one in the future
or for a divers extension strap?

Part of the Linde Werdelin idea is that all straps are interchangeable. Customers can easily change them with the help of the LW strap tool given with every watch purchase. Apart from the wide range of straps we do offer one steel bracelet which follows the same logic. Customers may opt to have a bracelet with their Oktopus watch rather than a strap. You can expect though to see more bracelets offered by Linde Werdelin in the near future!

All LW watches are designed to be compatible with LW instruments, the Oktopus was no exception. Did you feel that the Oktopus’ functionality was in anyway compromised to accommodate the Reef?

Not at all! With the Oktopus family we have launched four different models including our first complication, the Oktopus Moonphase. Our motto is ‘no compromise’ but rather offering more to the divers. There are certain functions a timepiece can offer a diver. For precise information for a safe dive one should refer to The Reef.

Do you feel that the Oktopus can stand on its own eights legs (so to speak) as a dive watch without having to be integrated with the reef instrument?

Absolutely, all our watches can be worn on their own or with our instruments to enhance their sporting experience. The Oktopus family is no different. The first years of Linde Werdelin the majority of our customers would buy our timepieces with our instruments. Today, we have seen a shift and our customers do buy our watches and not necessarily our instruments.

Please talk a little about the technology that the Reef uses? Where does this technology come from? Who helped you develop the Reef? What are its core functions? And how would it compare other dive computers or dive watch-computers on the market?



The Reef is a sophisticated high end diving instrument. It uses the latest technology for all its functions regularly updated by our in-house development team. Today, there are approximately four to five companies worldwide that can produce diving computers. At Linde Werdelin, we produce The Reef in our premises in Denmark. The Reef as The Rock are technology products and need to be updated regularly and these updates to reach the customers fast. We have therefore built an interface for customers to be able to download all updates easily.

In terms of functions The Reef offers everything to ensure a safe dive such as ascent rate vs. ideal ascent rate, dive time, decompression stops, no fly time, temperature, maximum operating depth, surface interval times, alarm/warnings, timers etc, constantly keeping the diver in a real time picture. Apart from these, and more than any other watch-computer, it is a high end product with anodised aluminium casing, sapphire crystal, anti-reflective screen and a lithium memory less battery.



How do you plan to develop the Oktopus? Considering the huge success of the SpidoSpeed, is an OktoSpeed [chrono] a likelihood for the future?

The ‘Spido’ and the Oktopus are two separate families that appeal to different people. So far this year we have launched the SpidoSpeed and the SpidoLite II models but soon the lovers of diving watches will be able to see what the new Oktopus will be. I am afraid I cannot reveal more at this stage, you will have to wait until our next launch!


Linde Werdelin is fast approaching its 10th year. How would you sum up those 10 years?

It has been a rocky road but an incredible learning curve. Building a watch brand is very hard in our days but when all the pieces of puzzle start to slowly be put together one realizes how all the years of ‘sweat and tears’ are so much worth it.

What are your aspirations for the brand’s future?

I would still like to see Linde Werdelin a small organic watch company with more innovative and well crafted timepieces.


What’s next?

You can certainly expect to see more of the Spido-family and Oktopus models in the near future…

Any final words for the OceanicTime readers?

We believe that intuition and always listening closely to our customers’ feedback are the basis of innovative watches.

2011-11-04

LINDE WERDELIN An InDepth with Jorn Werdelin part1

My thanks to Jorn Werdelin, co-founder of Linde Werdelin Instruments for taking the time to answer my questions and for offering us this rare insight into Linde Werdelin . . .



Thank you Lex! It is my pleasure.

Had you always been involved horology? What was your first experience with a wristwatch?

I have always been surrounded by watches! Growing up, my parents and grandparents owned jewelry stores in Denmark. I still remember when I received my first watch, I was 5 years old and my grandparents gave me a Timex diving watch with a plastic bezel as Christmas present.

What’s the story behind your partnership with Morten Linde? What were you guys doing for a living before you set up LW?

Morten and I have been friends for many years, at least since primary school when I was 6 years old. After school we took different paths, Morten started his brilliant designer career and I worked in banking. Despite each one going his own way, we always kept in touch as we share many interests namely watches and sports which brought us together to create Linde Werdelin 30 odd years later.

What lead you to start up your own watch company?



Everything started in 2002 when Morten asked if it would be possible to design a mechanical watch with attached digital functionality as we are both into sports but we could never find a high end watch that would provide us with both functionality. Hours of discussions between us sparked such an enthusiasm that we decided to take it to the next level. Not long after, we setup a number of meetings with watch industry professionals to discuss how we could manage to create such a timepiece.

In those days what was on the wrists of the two founders of Linde Werdelin? What types of watches were you interested in? What brands were you wearing?

We always enjoyed spending our time doing sports namely skiing and diving. The watches we have been wearing prior to Linde Werdelin’s existence were high end sports watches. Morten and I have both been collecting watches for many years such as Audemars Piguet, Rolex and Patek Philippe.

Where did you look to for inspiration, when you were designing your first model? What brands if any, and what kinds of design philosophies influenced you?

Morten and I, for that matter, are fans of the ‘70s Gerald Genta designs. Having said that, Linde Werdelin watches have their own unique style that to me sets them apart from the classic sports watches in the industry but still belong to a particular design vein that makes them appealing to lovers of sports watches and ones who are looking for a watch with an advanced design.

The functionality element of Linde Werdelin watches and the fact that it is a modern sports watch with no history record resulted in this design. I guess Morten is a bit better in discussing the design aspect of our watches than I am, but we wanted to create a modern sports watch and stay true to Danish craftsmanship and design, which is functional.

What other brands would you compare yourself to?

I do not think we can compare Linde Werdelin with other brands. LW is different to any other brand out there crafting high end, technologically advanced sports watches and precision digital instruments.

What kind of person buys a Linde Werdelin watch?



There are two kinds of customers. Those who are general sports oriented people who use their Linde Werdelin instruments for everyday training such as their bicycle training, jogs, swim, even hiking and trailing. Of course, The Reef is a much more technical instrument than The Rock and requires actually diving to operate, but The Rock is becoming an accessory for many sports.

The second customer profile we have identified is people passionate about watches and this passion is certainly the driving force of the company for both the watches and instruments. Value and quality are very important for us and I believe that that comes across in our products. I also think people generally like the fact the brand philosophy itself is innovative.

LW offer a free 5 day test drive on all their watches; please could tell me how this idea came about? How does it work? Do customers receive a demonstration model? What kind of feedback have you had from customers?

We were one of the first brands to start selling online and especially for countries we had no partners in, this proved and still proving to be a very successful strategy. We wanted to act in a total transparent policy, that’s why we created our 5 day Trial Program. We are proud of our product and now customers can have their own idea of the product, at no obligation. Creating such a program needed of course to be hassle-free for the customers wanting to take advantage of it.

By simply completing a short loan form on LindeWerdelin.com, we ship the chosen watch model and instrument to be experienced and enjoyed for five days. There is a holding guarantee which is released the moment the timepiece is safely returned to us and there is no obligation of purchase. The send out and collection are all arranged by us to make the whole experience as hassle-free for the recipient as possible.

The idea of the Trial Program has been incredibly well received giving the option to customers where we are not present in to see and experience the LW watches from up-close. Equally though, we have seen people opting for the program in countries or cities where retailers are present. It is an opportunity to try a watch from the comfort of your home rather in a busy store.



LW watches initially were only available online from LW. But now LW have partnered with a number of retail outlets across the United States and the rest of the world? Please talk a little about this new strategy . . .

As I mentioned earlier, we were one of the first brands to start selling online and especially for countries we had no partners in, this proved and still proving to be a very successful strategy. As the brand grows, we are receiving more and more recognition in the industry and have retailer partners.

We work closely with our retailers and even direct customers to them from online. Online sales has been one of the ‘hot’ topics ever since a lot of brands started selling online, we are actually
in a better position than many of the big brands the reason being that we started growing our online business along with our retailing channel in a total transparent policy.

I remember reading an article on the subject and I think Maximilian Busser’s of MB&F quote sums it up well: “The Internet will never kill the brick and mortar store, but everyone will be using the Internet – and no one can stop them – so maybe the retailers should think of how to reinvent themselves in this new era”.

There are few watch companies, who truly know and understand ‘new media’ such as blogs, e-magazines and online discussion forums the way that LW does. Please talk a little of your personal experiences with them and the benefits to both LW and its customers. If I remember correctly the first time we spoke was via Watchuseek.

Indeed it was via Watchuseek! Linde Werdelin has embraced the online world as the online world embraced Linde Werdelin alike. People nowadays are very savvy about the objects they desire but have little time. Blogs and e-magazines have helped towards giving people knowledge, the option to read various opinions about the same product and then make an informed decision.

What I have also found very interesting at the beginning of this, was the speed with which things happen online. Whereas the same action in print would have perhaps taken triple the time; that said though I do not think that online media will ever replace print, like TV didn’t replace radio, they will coexist as they already do.




An advertising campaign featuring comic book illustrations, a collaboration with a tattooing legend and collection of edgy mechanical sports watches that can be integrate with digital technology . . . How important is it for LW to be perceived as a 'cool' brand?

Linde Werdelin’s idea and concept is unique in the industry so all we cannot but differentiate ourselves from what is already know and seen. We do not follow trends, we have our own way and pace of doing things and focus on creating well thought quality and functional timepieces and digital instruments.

In terms of communication, this means moving away from anything that has to do with traditional way of product advertising and instead going for a lighter and fresher approach which does not necessarily use a product, but rather a beautifully hand-drawn illustration. The result is non-intrusive, engaging and aesthetically pleasing.


How did the collaboration between comic illustrator Dominique Bertail come about? Why chose such a medium?



The illustrations of Dominique Bertail are included in our complete brand image from catalogues, to advertising visuals, to our online appearance. Since it was first introduced, it has been very successful and gives us a unique communication approach setting us apart from anything previously done in the industry.

The effectiveness of the illustration branding has been proven by the interest and coverage we get from the press and the customer around the characters and the stories. It also gives us a unique visual recognition (hand drawn illustrations) when other companies might get lost in the same campaign direction using similar photographic themes.

to be continued, stay tuned for part2 . . .

2010-06-25

PORSCHE DESIGN & ETERNA (interview)

By TLex The PORSCHE DESIGN P'6780 is a technically brilliant watch with a very pure form, it marks a new chapter in contemporary dive watch history; and I have been fortunate enough to have been one of the first to have spent some quality time with it. I was also lucky enough to hear directly from the two gentlemen behind it and have my questions answered . . .



OceanicTime I would like to personally thank both Patrick Schwarz CEO and Patrick Kury Technical Director of Porsche Design & Eterna for taking the time to answers my questions with regard to Porsche Design and Eterna timepieces and the new P'6780 Diver.

OceanicTime Could you explain briefly about the special relationship that Porsche Design and Eterna have, how it came about and as far as development of Porsche Design timepieces are concerned (specifically dive watches) who does what?

PORSCHE DESIGN Patrick Schwarz: This is a unique relationship because Eterna is the licensee for Porsche Design watches and it is also owned by the Porsche family. Eterna is responsible for the production and distribution of Porsche Design watches. Beside the distribution through specialized retailers, the watches are, along the other Porsche Design products, sold in more than 100 Porsche Design boutiques around the world.

Every new watch is the result of a close collaboration between Eterna SA, the Porsche Design Studio and the PLH – Porsche Lizenz- und Handelsgesellschaft (the company that manages the license).

The brand Porsche Design as a luxury brand is known for the exceptional design, the perfect functionality of its objects and the use of innovative materials.

The P'6780 Diver is among others the fruit of this great collaboration between the designers of the Porsche Design Studio and the engineers and watchmakers of Eterna.



OceanicTime The Porsche name isn't one that we would instinctively associate with dive watches, yet in 1983 Ferdinand A .E. Porsche designed a dive watch that was both technically and aesthetically way ahead of its time. The Ocean 2000, which has earned iconic status from many aficionados, has become an important piece of dive watch history.

Surely a tough act to follow!?


Did Porsche Design feel that they had almost a duty or obligation to release a worthy successor? Something that would be as equally remembered and as significant in the next 25yrs?

Do you feel you have achieved this with the P'6780?

PORSCHE DESIGN Patrick Schwarz: Thanks to the introduction of titanium into watchmaking in 1980, Porsche Design could now develop a diving watch especially for military purposes. Thus, the Ocean 2000 became iconic in the world of diving watches not only because of its material but also because of its design and functionality. Knowing that, we had to come up with a worthy successor. And we are convinced that we have it.



The P'6780 Diver possesses a unique design and material combination: the silver-colored stainless steel container provides a striking contrast to the anthracite-grey titanium bridge structure. This is the unmistakable signature of Porsche Design. Second its functionality: Securely anchored within a titanium bridge structure is a hinged container housing movement, dial and hands, which has to be raised to set the diving time.

This approach prevents bezel and crown from being inadvertently turned. The Diver's advanced sealing system is water resistant to 100 atmospheres, equivalent to a depth of 1000 meters. It needs neither a screw-down crown nor a helium release valve. The strap features a special diving extension so it can fit over a diving suit without the folding clasp having to be opened first.

OceanicTime When Porsche Design unveiled only their 2nd dive watch in more than 25yrs at Baselworld 2010; its design was recognized by some as being a reworked Eterna KonTiki Diver.

Is this exactly what it is?

If so, could you explain a little about the decision to work of the existing KonTiki Diver's architecture rather than coming up with something fresh?

If this is not the case, could you please talk a little about the fundamental differences between the two models and their case housings?





PORSCHE DESIGN
Patrick Schwarz: It is true to say that the P'6780 Diver from Porsche Design features the same outstanding construction principles than the Eterna KonTiki Diver. But why should the Porsche Design diving watch not benefit from this unique development? Since this watch perfectly fits the philosophy of Porsche Design, we decided to focus from now on, on the P'6780 Diver.

Nevertheless, there are differences and improvements in the P'6780 Diver in comparison with the Eterna KonTiki Diver:

1. Design: The design has been rethought by the Porsche Design Studio to become more purist, timeless and refined, adding structures such as Clous De Paris. Only the principle of case construction (movement, dial and hands housed in a container, placed in a bridge) is the same.

2. Construction:

Improvements have been made on this model as follows:

a) The turning bezel is now unidirectional for security reasons.

b) The push-pieces are mobile to guarantee a perfect ergonomy also for smaller wrists.

c) The container's pivot has been rethought.

3. Material: The P'6780 Diver features a unique material combination of titanium and stainless steel. The KonTiki Diver was entirely constructed in stainless steel. The P'6780 Diver has the bridge, the case back and the folding clasp made in titanium to give it a unique two-tone look.






OceanicTime Please talk briefly of the technical challenges involved in such a design; in particular the case and its housing. I know that the Eterna version went through many long delays causing a much later release than initially planned. Many valuable lessons must have been learned.

PORSCHE DESIGN
Patrick Kury: The construction of the KonTiki Diver (and today of the P'6780 Diver) is very complex. It indeed took us more time than expected for the development of the Eterna diving watch to undertake the various developments and adjustments in order to guarantee a perfect water resistance. We needed to find the right material and the best dimensions for this exceptional sealing system. But also the material and the surface treatment of the case had to be the right one. The surface quality has to be perfect to guarantee water resistance.






OceanicTime What was the design brief given for the P'6780?

PORSCHE DESIGN Patrick Schwarz: Porsche Design is known for the purist, timeless and functional design of its objects. The design philosophy is based on the principle of form follows function. Functionally is above all. Furthermore, Porsche Design has marked the watchmaking industry through the introduction of new materials such as titanium in 1980 and new material combinations. The P'6780 has been designed and constructed according to these guidelines.

OceanicTime The P'6780 meets with ISO norms (regulations) for a dive watch, was it ocean tested? Please could talk a little of the watch's testing and development.

PORSCHE DESIGN Patrick Kury:The P’6780 went trough several tests which simulate the conditions under a 1’000 meters. This means it meets the ISO 22810 and the NIHS 92-10. We decided to assure the watch to be waterproof to 1'000 meters but we did not want it to be a professional diving instrument.

Since the introduction of the Ocean 2000 diving material has drastically evolved. Today, the watch plays an important role of security in the world of diving and has saved a lot of lives. However, a diver would always first rely on his electronic equipment and use the watch as a security.







OceanicTime Explain the thinking behind the enlarged pushers at 10 & 2 o'clock?

PORSCHE DESIGN Patrick Kury: First of all the push-pieces have been enlarged to be manipulated easily with gloves. The larger push-pieces are also a design element wanted by the Porsche Design Studio.

OceanicTime The P'6780 has certainly evolved; would you say that you have actually improved on the Eterna version; I see a cleaner, sleeker and more refined watch, but by no means less utilitarian looking. Would this be true?






PORSCHE DESIGN Patrick Schwarz: As mentioned earlier, there have been improvements made in terms of design, construction and material:

1. Design: The design has been rethought by the Porsche Design Studio to become more purist, timeless and refined, adding structures such as Clous de Paris. Only the principle of case construction (movement, dial and hands housed in a container, placed in a bridge) is the same.

2. Construction:

Improvements have been made on this model as follows:

a) The turning bezel is now unidirectional for security reasons.

b) The push-pieces are mobile to guarantee a perfect ergonomy also for smaller wrists.

c) The container's pivot has been rethought.

3. Material: The P'6780 Diver features a unique material combination of titanium and stainless steel. The KonTiki Diver was entirely constructed in stainless steel. The P’6780 Diver has the bridge, the case back and the folding clasp made in titanium to give it a unique two-tone look.






OceanicTime Please talk a little of the Porsche Design product line that P'6780 diver has become part of.

PORSCHE DESIGN Patrick Schwarz: Porsche Design objects and watches in particular are known for their purist, timeless and functional design. All of our watches meet these principles. Prof. Ferdinand Alexander Porsche once said: “When you think about the function of something, its design sometimes emerges of its own accord.”

The P'6780 Diver belongs to the product line P'6780 Performance, the world of conquerors – global, functional and limitless.






OceanicTime Why didn't Porsche Design jump on the retro / reissue band wagon as they have done with the Heritage P'6530 and Eterna P600; Wouldn't a more updated / current version of the Ocean 2000 have been a better route to take for only the 2nd release in 25yrs?

It proved incredibly successful with Blancpain and the 50 Fathoms; Omega and the Ploprof etc.

Would that ever have been on the cards?

PORSCHE DESIGN Patrick Schwarz: We are this year celebrating the 30th anniversary of the first titanium chronograph and the introduction of titanium into watchmaking. This was the perfection occasion to reintroduce a Heritage line within the Porsche Design watch collection. The P'6530 is the start of the reintroduction of a series of Porsche Design models that have marked the watchmaking industry through either their design, functionality or their material.






OceanicTime Ocean 2000 DNA has worked its way into a number Eterna and Porsche Design timepieces over the years; will this DNA eventually work its way into another serious / significant dive watch or has this DNA reached the end of its lifespan?

PORSCHE DESIGN Patrick Schwarz: The Ocean 2000 fully represents the philosophy of Porsche Design to propose purist, timeless and functional timepieces. It is this philosophy that we will continue to perpetuate.

When it comes to diving watches, we are now concentrating on the launch of the P'6780 Diver.

OceanicTime The Ocean 2000 was initially developed for the German Navy? Does Porsche Design have any plans to create a version of the P'6780 for military use; a stealth DLC version?

PORSCHE DESIGN Patrick Schwarz: As mentioned earlier, diving material has drastically evolved since the introduction of the Ocean 2000. Today, the watch plays an important role of security in the world of diving and has saved a lot of lifes. However, a diver would always first relay on his electronic equipment and use the watch as a security.

For that purpose, the P'6780 features an exceptional functionality thanks to its outstanding construction where movement, dial and hands are housed in a container that can be raised to easily set the diving time and put back into the bridge to secure everything.

Thus, the P'6780 Diver can be used by any professional and non professional diver. However, it is not classified as a professional diving instrument.






OceanicTime Why was there a 25-year gap between the Ocean 2000 and P'6780 Diver?

PORSCHE DESIGN Patrick Schwarz: We decided to focus on other developments such as the P'6910 Indicator and the P'6750 Worldtimer before presenting the P'6780 Diver.

The P'6910 Indicator is an automatic chronograph that displays the stopped time in a digital manner. It is today the most complex series-produced watch featuring a movement with more than 800 components. A watchmaker needs 42 days to assemble the movement. This innovation is patented by Eterna.

The P'6750 Worldtimer displays the second time zone also in a digital manner. Thanks to an Eterna innovation, the second time zone can be instantaneously transferred to the main hands by pressing the push-piece.

OceanicTime What's next for Porsche Design? Please don't tell me I will be in my fifties, when you release another dive watch!






PORSCHE DESIGN Patrick Schwarz: We will continue to propose watches with a purist, timeless and functional design using exceptional materials and material combinations.

Let us keep the suspense…

OceanicTime On behalf OceanicTime and all its readers thank you once again for your valuable time and the great insight in Porsche Design and Eterna, and P'6780 Diver.




© OceanicTime

2009-11-21

An interview with Vincent Perriard (breathing life back into TechnoMarine)



Lex Vincent, please allow me to first of all thank you on behalf of OceanicTime and all my readers for your valuable time and for giving us this rare insight into your plans with TechnoMarine, it is very much appreciated and I am very honored to have you answer my questions.

Vincent Thank you Lex. This is part of my duty to explain and communicate the passion that we have at TechnoMarine to make the brand a reference again in the watch making industry.



Lex How did your partnership and position as new CEO of TechnoMarine come about?

Vincent Well, after 3 years of business at Concord, I started to receive a lot of different offers to turnaround brands. Last May one phone call came from a headhunter and they asked if I would be interested in meeting with Mr. Christian Viros, former CEO of TAG Heuer and former President of LVMH Watch & Jewelry division…

The top reference in our industry. The man who really created the hype with TAG during more than 10 years. One of the most visible successes of our industry. You cannot resist to such an invitation. So I met Christian and after 15 minutes, I was “in”.

All the ingredients that I love: turnaround, great goodwill, huge amount of work to turn the brand to a success, fun, talents… They needed a new creative mind to bring “electricity” back to the brand…

Lex Why TechnoMarine?

Vincent Well because the challenge to turn the brand around into a success is really big. The brand used to be hot; used to be cool… And to bring back the hype, we will need a lot of creativity, network and hard work. I love these three things! It’s always more fun to take a brand where if you do a good job, the visibility will be better because no one expects to see TechnoMarine to be hot again…

Guess what, I have lived that already 3 times: Audemars Piguet (1995-2000 brand turnaround; 2001 Hamilton brand turnaround; 2006-09 Concord brand turnaround… and each time, the same situation: poor brand recognition, “used to be” something but lost its point of view, etc…



Lex Since its inception in 1999 Techno Marine has marketed themselves as a lifestyle and fashion forward brand. I can never forget their marketing campaign using nude models draped in sharks. How far removed is your new vision of TechnoMarine from Franck Dubarry’s of 10 years ago. Will you continue to head down the same fashion / lifestyle path?

Vincent In the late 90’s the brand was hot. It went way further than “fashion” and “lifestyle”: the brand was “talking” to trendsetters, fashion forward BUT also to watch fans or aficionados… If you remember, at that time, people were swapping their Rolex or AP to put their TechnoMarine on for the week/end. In another words, the brand was “cool”.

The DNA of TechnoMarine was the ability to mix or merge two universes: the low end (= plastic) meets the high end (= diamonds). This is the core essence of the brand. The ability to be 100% disruptive.

So don’t put TechnoMarine into a “box” or a “category”… We are way beyond that… and that is why a lot of people in the industry are wondering what we could possibly be imaging for the rebirth of this brand… Guess what… We have fund. That’s a surprise, of course. But we are willing to “talk” to the same crowd back in the late 90’s…




Lex What do you see as TechnoMarine’s main strengths and weakness?

Vincent Strength: disruptive mind-set. Audacity. Market leader (in the late 90’s).


Weakness: today, no more point of view or motto… But we are working on it…


Lex How do you plan to build on their strengths?

Vincent That’s my little secret! Remember with Concord. Everybody laughed at Concord. The brand was nothing but a gold platted watch at 1500 $... and 18 months later… the brand launches and delivers 100 Tourbillon C1 Gravity at 300,000 $ / unit… Sold out in 2 days in Basel 08 and we win the Grand Prix de Genève / best Design 2008!

Lex What is / will be your design philosophy?

Vincent Work with the best designers. Find new talents. Give them a precise and focused briefing to make sure they match what we are looking to launch.



Lex Will you now have a new demographic / target? If so who will this be? What sector of the luxury watch market will you be focusing, on?

Vincent When we launched the Offshore of Audemars Piguet (1995) there was never a demographic: the watch was as appealing to a 25-year old man driving his Ferrari in Los Angeles as it was to a 60-year old banker in London. I don’t really care about demographics in the high-value market; I care about the social profile and aspirations of the consumer. Much more interesting because it is NOT connected to his age.

With TechnoMarine, it used to be (and it will be again) a state of mind. A spirit.

Lex As you know the internet has become a powerful marketing tool for modern watch companies, with sophisticated and expensive websites and Facebook accounts. What will TechnoMarine be doing to market themselves in Cyberspace?

Vincent We are going to invest more than 3/4s of our marketing money in electronic platforms and channels of communication. The watch industry keeps thinking it understands this media… That’s not true. A few brands have understood it. We (my new team and I), we are part of these few brands and we will maximize our efforts, I can guarantee this.



Lex What are your immediate goals for TechnoMarine? What are your long term goals / ambitions for the company?

Vincent My immediate goal (when I started in mid August 2009) was to redefine the vision of the brand to be able to illustrate it to my people and my boss, Christian Viros. Then to express this vision into a product program for Basel 2010. We aim to be credible and respected again within 18 months.

Step 1 is Basel 2010 where we will bring a new brand identity: new people, new talents, new Corporate Identity, new brand image and communication concept, new products.

Step 2 is Basel 2011 where we want to surprise and buzz the watch industry with product concepts that recreate the energy that we had in the late 90’s… We have the concept… You can’t imagine how cool it is…

Lex TechnoMarine by name already hints strongly at nautical and diver themes. What proportion of your new line up will actually be dive watches?

Vincent It will be always a combination of diving watches (sport); urban watches (trendy); and leisure watches. But the entire design is re-assessed and we are working on a totally new collection.



Lex You had told me earlier that within the next 18 months you will have developed some serious dive watches. What does that actually mean in terms of specifications and models?

Vincent Within 18 months we should be able to re-create a “market space” that no one in the watch industry owns… like the “plastic meets diamonds”. We were the first ones, and the only ones to create this disruptive product. We led the market for a while. We believe we can recreate this scenario with something totally different 10 years later.

Lex Dive watches by their very nature are defined by their depth ratings and functionality. They should be utilitarian but often (unfortunately) follow fashion.

What of; Water-resistance, lume, case materials, movements, function, ISO standards, etc.?

Will function follow form or form follow function when designing your dive watches?

Vincent At TechnoMarine, there is « joie de vivre » and lots of colors… it is not about performance but useful technique; a kind of “plug and play” system where you don’t need functions or features that you will never use in your whole life… So, we keep this in mind and we are designing watches with that DNA in mind.



Lex Will the flagship model be a diver? How many diver models are planned?

Vincent Maybe. Too early to say. Not because we don’t know, but because we don’t want to tell it at that point. Let’s keep a little bit of suspense here.

Lex What part / role in the design process will you play? To what degree are you involved?

Vincent TechnoMarine is a small brand. I am therefore involved in everything, including marketing, product design, sales, administration, etc…!



Lex Please tell me about your team? Does TechnoMarine have a completely new design team? Did you hand pick them yourself? Did you bring people with you?

Vincent Yes, a totally new creative team. In fact we are now working with 4 different agencies on lots of concepts. Some for 2010 but already on the 2011 – 12 designs, where and when the brand will be aligned with our vision…



Lex I was very flattered when you previously told me that you had referred your team to OceanicTime for inspiration, where else will they be drawing inspiration from?

Shouldn’t you just send them all off to the Maldives or the Great Barrier Reef for some inspiration? If you do, can I come along? ;)

Vincent Great idea!! Who pays for it? ;)

Yes, it is true that I asked them to spend some time on OceanicTime. We need to get professional input BUT we need to be able – at TechnoMarine – to translate this into our brand, with our touch, with a twist and to remain true to our DNA and our audience.



Lex What of the current line of Techno Marine divers, namely the Royal Marine?

Vincent Yes, but Royal Marine will be gone in around 6 months now. It is not part of our future collections…

Lex When do your expect / hope to launch the new lines?

Vincent Basel 2010 more than 100 new references… This is what I call « our home-work »; a natural thing to do as a manager since there were a lot of issues in our previous collection.

Basel 2011 the talking piece, the concept that buzz the industry…


Lex Will you be hinting / previewing anything at SIHH or BASEL 2010

Vincent Basel 2010… Imagine, we have started on September 1, 2009… 7 months before BASEL. If we make it for BASEL, this will be a record by itself.



Lex Please tell me / us about your personal experiences with dive watches. Do you own one?

Vincent Of course I own some. But do we consider an Audemars Piguet Offshore a diving watch… of an urban watch with a lot of guts and some reference to the diving universe? This is quite subjective I think.

Lex Will the new Techno Marine diver / divers be something that any discerning dive watch collector / enthusiast should aspire to have in their collection. Why?

Vincent Yes, you got it. We are doing things to appeal to the collector/enthusiasts. But this will be achieved after step 1, in 2011. You will have to see the evolution and the achievements in 18 months.



Lex Do you have a final message that you would like to relay to the OceanicTime readers and dive watch enthusiasts who will hopefully one day be sporting a TechnoMarine dive watch?

Vincent Expect the unexpected. But give us some time. More than 6 months! We are working hard.

Lex Vincent it has been an absolute pleasure to hear from you. I am very excited about what you will be / are doing with TechnoMarine. And I look forward greatly to seeing your new dive watches in the future. The best of luck to you, and all of your team at TechnoMarine!

Vincent Thank you Lex. You know, we need luck. This is one of the key components of success. Without it, nothing really happens. The talent, hard work and experience is key of course. But luck brings the magic touch that makes the total difference! Speak to you soon ...

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