By TLex I’ve been seduced by the dark side of the force offshore! Despite it having a high-tech ceramic case (I still haven't warmed to the growing trend in ceramic watch cases, I'm afraid) I'm finding the latest ROO DIVER more and more appealing - at least to look at that is. How it will fare on the wrist will be a completely different story (it's going to feel a little odd being so light).
The new ROO Diver Ceramic, which was conceived in the R&D department of the AP manufacture is the third iteration of AP's current Royal Oak Offshore Diver's family. Read the full SP accompanied by HD images, below . . .
From AP This instrument developed to meet the requirements of diving enthusiasts or those looking for timepieces able to cope with intensive use, decisively pushes the envelope in terms of performance. Rugged and resistant to the pressure sustained at depths of 300 meters, the Royal Oak Offshore Diver maximizes the main technical characteristics of instruments intended for use in underwater activities, in order to guarantee users unfailing reliability at all times.
Fully compliant with the NIHS 92-11 (ISO6425) norm, this self-winding model with its powerful design, built for subaquatic use in conditions where rough estimates are not an option, appears this year for the first time with a case, bezel and easy-grip crowns all made of deep black high-tech ceramics.
Machining this avant-garde material, around seven times harder than steel and which only diamonds can scratch, calls for the use of special machines and tools equipped with diamond-tipped milling-cutters. The case middle is also treated to polished and satin-brushed finishes that represented a daunting technical challenge to achieve this degree of quality, due to the inherent resistant to abrasion of this composite material.
This reliable and efficient timepiece, for which the developers focused firmly on functionality, was thoroughly researched to ensure optimal suitability for use in diving conditions. For example, to improve the readability contrast in the ocean depths, for the first time its black dial bearing the traditional “Méga Tapisserie” pattern is fitted with a luminescent orange hand matching the diving scale appearing on the rotating inner bezel ring, which also features an orange zone between 12 and 3 o’clock. This vivid shade enables instant readings of all essential information.
The rotating dive-time pre-selection device, unusually positioned inside the case, is technically far more complex to make than a traditional unidirectional exterior rotating bezel. It offers the advantage of reducing the parallax error and protecting this element – which is vital for divers in monitoring the duration of their immersion – from shocks and aggressive external factors such as water, salt or grains of sand that might jam the bezel.
To adjust this dive-time indicator, the Audemars Piguet watchmakers have developed a mechanism enabling it to be controlled via a watertight external crown positioned at 10 o’clock along the side of the case middle. This system as a whole represents a significant safety feature since, once the crown has been screwed back in, the dive time cannot be inadvertently modified. Equipped with a system of innovative water-tightness gaskets, it may be handled during immersion.
This technology that has also been applied to the winding-crown will enable the diver to perform various operations under water if necessary.
This watch also providing a central seconds display and a date indication at 3 o’clock is driven by Manufacture Audemars Piguet mechanical self-winding Calibre 3120, which may be observed through the titanium case-back fitted with a sapphire crystal – also a first in the Offshore Diver collection.
The latter highly sensitive element, that must be able to withstand the underwater pressure exercised at a depth of 300 meters, is secured to the case middle by screws and serves to reveal the 22-carat solid gold oscillating weight, along with some of the meticulously finished movement components including its balance beating at a rate of 21,600 vibrations per hour.
This rugged, graphically designed, ergonomic and almost unalterable timepiece focuses on essentials – which is exactly why it is worn on a rubber strap equipped with a titanium pin buckle. This simple and efficient, tried and tested fastening system enables the user to adjust the strap at any time to ensure a comfortable fit, whether directly on the skin or when wearing the instrument over a diving suit.
Also read up on the FORGED CARBON, ROO DIVER, ROO SCUBA and watch the VIDEO
By TLex It looks incredible, but are we sure we really want Submersible in ceramic? I mean are we ready for it yet? Despite the obvious benefits of a ceramic case, which is lightweight, tough, resistant to scratches, corrosive agents and high temperatures and is probably the ideal case material for a mil-spec. diver -
and irrational as it may seem, I still need to feel the reassuring weight of my watch strapped to my wrist for fear of thinking I might just have paid the price of small sports car for a toy!
The new Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Ceramica AKA PAM 508 was released as part of Panerai's 'Special Editions' collection unveiled at SIHH 2013. With its matte ceramic case, its P.9000 manufacture movement and the details inspired by the historic heritage of the brand, it represents a perfect synthesis of history, technology and watchmaking design.
The Luminor 1950 case with the bridge protecting the winding crown, a characteristic Panerai feature, is made of brushed black ceramic, a material synthesized from zirconium oxide powder which ensures lightness and toughness as well as resistance to scratches, corrosive agents and high temperatures.
The classic shape of the case 47 mm in diameter is created by a complex series of working and finishing operations which also give it a particularly uniform, smooth, matte appearance. The unidirectional rotating bezel enabling the length of the dive to be determined is made of the same matte ceramic as the case.
The only color which contrasts with the profound black of the case and of the dial is the ecru Super-LumiNova® on the applied hour markers, the graduated scale and the partially skeletonized hands.
The date window is at three o’clock while the classic Panerai small seconds dial is positioned at nine o’clock. The case is sealed by a titanium back coated in black, with an SLC torpedo engraved in the middle, and it contains the automatic P.9000 calibre, entirely developed and executed in the Panerai manufacture in Neuchatel.
The Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Ceramica is water-resistant to 30 atmospheres (300 meters) and it is supplied with a black leather strap, fastened by a large trapezoid-shaped buckle covered in black PVD.
By TLex Officine Panerai have released their 2nd bronze model! Two short years after the release of the PAM 382, the bronze diver that so many other bronze dive watches released since have aspired to.
The 382 received extraordinary international recognition after appearing in the Hollywood movie, Expendables2 in which a number of the cast were seen sporting Bronze Submersibles, gifted to them by Paneraisti and on screen legend, Sylvester Stallone.
The release of the PAM 507 speaks volumes to me - showing that there is a market for bronze watches bronze. Let's hope that this alluring material becomes a mainstay of Panerai's future collections. Once again we see the lovely aged CuSn8 Bronze alloy with its soft warm patina complimented by an Olive green dial, but has the simplicity of the watch been spoiled by the addition of a power-reserve indicator?
The new Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Power Reserve Automatic Bronzo AKA PAM 507 was released as part of Panerai's 'Special Editions' collection unveiled at SIHH 2013. Its new feature which distinguishes this model is in the dial: the display of the power reserve of three days on an arc-shaped indicator positioned at four o'clock.
This very useful function joins the date display, the device for zeroing the seconds hand that is invaluable when synchronizing the watch with a reference time signal, and the system for rapidly adjusting the time, the hand of which can be moved forward or backwards in jumps of one hour without affecting the running of the watch.
The dark green dial, with applied hour markers, is surrounded by a studded bezel in bronze with the scale for measuring the length of the dive. The bezel is connected to the case by a special system designed and patented by Officine Panerai to ensure that the ratchet moves precisely from one click to the next.
Check out the new PAM00364 and PAM00389 . . .
By TLex Officine Panerai have released another 2500m diving beast! The new Luminor Submersible 1950 2500M 3 Days Automatic Titanio, AKA PAM 364 was released as part of Panerai's 'Special Editions' collection unveiled at SIHH 2013.
The new PAM 364 is Panerai's third model (I believe) with such a depth-rating. Panerai's first 2500m diver was the PAM 194 followed by the PAM 285 in 2009. Despite a name as long as my arm, there's a certain sense of familiarity with the new PAM 364 model.
Officine Panerai have a tradition of combining classic Italian diving heritage (styling) with exceptional performance. The new Luminor Submersible 1950 2500M 3 DAYS Automatic Titanio is no different. It ticks all the right boxes in terms of looks and ability.
It's 47mm case is made of brushed Titanium, a material which combines lightness with the structural robustness required to resist high pressures, external stresses and corrosion making it the perfect a professional instrument for any diver.
Its exceptional water-resistance is ensured by Panerai's trademark device protecting the winding crown, which guarantees it to a depth of 2500 meters. Once again, we see an HEV with the chemical symbol 'He' for Helium on the caseside at eight o'clock enabling helium to escape during decompression after ascending from deep dives, preventing any pressurized gas from potentially damaging the watch.
The unidirectional rotational divers bezel has small markers in relief and a graduated dive-time scale, which enables the length of the dive to be read: it's a design that incorporates Panerai's signature bezel studs, inspired by the legendary Egiziano, a model created in 1956 for the Egyptian Navy.
The further protection is given by a 5.9mm thick domed Sapphire crystal. The dial combines circular and baton shaped hour markers, applied in relief and coated with a luminous material. As are the semi-skeletonized hands, thus ensuring optimum visibility even in the depths of the ocean. There's the all too familiar sight of a sub dial at nine o'clock with a small sweeping seconds hand, whilst the date window is at three o’clock.
The Special Edition Luminor Submersible 1950 2500m 3 Days Automatic is powered by the P.9000 automatic movement, completely designed and made in-house by Officine Panerai in the manufacture in Neuchâtel. Another 'grail' watch too lust after!
Also see the new PANERAI Luminor Submersible AMAGNETIC PAM 389.
By TLex PANERAI preview their latest divers model, the Luminor Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio 47mm - AKA PAM 00389, which is due to be officially unveiled at SIHH 2013 and released this October priced 8'900euro. The new PAM 389 has two very special features, one of which far exceeds typical specifications for a divers watch, the other is a Panerai first!
If the name 'Amagnetic' wasn't already enough of a hint; the first special feature of the 389 and one that Panerai are particularity proud of is its anti-magnetic capability. True divers watches or at least those that comply with industry standards for divers watches such ISO or NIHS norms are required to shield their movements from anti-magnetic fields that could potentially disrupt or interfere with them thus inhibiting the diver's ability to accurately read dive time, which could (in a worse case scenario) result in death!
The in-house Panerai movement, an automatic mechanical, P.9000 calibre is shielded by a soft iron case of a particularly high purity. This case and the the watch dial which is also made from iron forms a Faraday cage, which protects the movement up to 40,000 A/m (ampere per meter), more than eight times greater than that specified by NIHS 90-10 norms. It will also shield it from magnetic fields created by everyday devices such as cellphones or computers.
The 47mm Titanium constructed watch case makes use of Panerai's iconic 1950-style design, a favorite of mine which is used for all Sumbmersible models. It features a Titanium rotational divers bezel with studs and coin-edging of a design that dates back to the 50s when it was used for the legendary Egiziano, a watch that was commissioned for use by the Egyptian Navy.
However the bezel comes with a new feature; a ceramic inlay. This is the first time Panerai have used this material for one of their bezel designs and the first time (for my knowledge) they have used a black inlay (or inlay of any type for that matter) on any of their divers bezels. Although the Luminor Submersible is of a classic design, it lends itself well to the new modern feature. The design has in fact already been tried and tested by a small New Zealand based watch company, MAGRETTE.
Typically ceramic inserts are glossy (not all), but Panerai have opted for a more utilitarian look with a matte finish. In fact the whole watch has a matte brushed finish, the only polishing is on the bezel studs (which are flush not raised as is typical) and the bezel edging. This helps to further accentuate the new matte black inlay, which along with the matte finish of the Titanium case give the watch an über cool toolish aesthetic that just might prove irresistible!
From PANERAI The creative energy of Officine Panerai's Workshop of Ideas is demonstrated in the Luminor Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio, the new model which is a novel synthesis of the strict respect for traditional values and authenticity of the Panerai brand, and the continuous search for technically advanced solutions.
Remarkable resistance to magnetic fields - For Panerai, innovation is above all about functionality, and in the Luminor Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio it is seen in its special case construction which ensures a remarkable degree of resistance to magnetic fields: 40,000 A/m (ampere per metre), a limit more than eight times greater than the value specified by the international standards of the Normes de lIndustrie Horlogère Suisse (NIHS 90-10).
Such a high limit is achieved by the use of a special internal case made of soft iron of the highest purity, which encloses and isolates the movement, forming a Faraday cage that diverts the flow of magnetic fields. The soft iron case is immediately beneath the dial, which is made of the same material
This case structure is useful not only in extreme environmental situations but also in daily life, in that watches are often exposed to magnetic fields generated by electric charges and currents emanating from objects in common use, such as household appliances, computers 2 and cell phones. Such magnetic fields can noticeably alter the rate of the watch and even stop the movement: a possibility that is virtually non-existent in the new Luminor Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio 47mm.
New ceramic and titanium bezel The soft iron internal case of the Luminor Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio is contained within a classic Luminor Submersible case of brushed titanium, fitted with the lever bridge which locks the winding crown and thus helps in achieving water-resistance to a depth of 300 metres.
The design of the watch includes a feature which is completely new in Panerai watches: applied to the rotating titanium bezel, inspired by that of the models made by Panerai for the Egyptian Navy in the 1950s, is a disc of opaque black ceramic, on which the linear and dot-shaped titanium markers are fixed. The bezel rotates only in a clockwise direction, to prevent accidental movement interfering with the measurement of the time of the dive.
MOVEMENT Automatic mechanical, Panerai P.9000 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai, 13¾ lignes, 7.9 mm thick, 28 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 28,800 alternations/hour. Incabloc® anti-shock device. Power reserve 3 days, two barrels. 197 components.
FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, calculation of immersion time.
CASE Diameter 47 mm, brushed titanium.
BEZEL Anti-clockwise unidirectional rotating bezel in ceramic and brushed titanium with polished edges, graduated scale for calculating the time of immersion and ratchet click at minute intervals.
BACK Screw, titanium. Device protecting the crown: (protected as a trademark) Brushed titanium.
DIAL Black with applied luminous hour markers. Date at 3 o'clock, seconds at 9 o'clock.
CRYSTAL Sapphire, formed of corundum, 3.2 mm thick. Anti-reflective coating.
WATER -resistance: 30 bar (~ 300 meters).
STRAP PANERAI personalized rubber strap and large-size brushed titanium buckle. Supplied with a second interchangeable strap, a tool to change the strap and a steel screwdriver.