OceanicTime Archives

2020-12-04

EDOX SkyDiver NEPTUNIAN

Introducing the new SkyDiver Neptunian from Edox, a decedent of the Roman God of the Sea, Neptune, himself! Okay, that’s not entirely true but what the hey, the SkyDiver is no stranger to fiction; rumored to be based on a watch secretly commissioned by a Swiss colonel or was it a German baron, Munchhausen or something (I forget) for an elite paratrooper unit that was under his command. Anyway, this is Edox’s fourth SkyDiver release based on the rumored 1973 model – last time we got BRONZE – this time the SkyDiver has evolved from an early Submariner to a modern DEEPSEA inspired diver. Water-resistant to 1’000 meters, the SkyDiver Neptunian has been built with a durable Stainless steel case with a diameter of 44mm. The case is fitted with a substantial screw-down crown with an integrated (into the case) crown-guard, a 3mm-thick, anti-reflective-treated sapphire crystal as well as unidirectional diver’s bezel with a black ceramic inlay. Beneath the crystal is a gradient blue dial with applied indices which along with the hands have been applied with brightly glowing, Superluminova X1 while a Rolex-style rehaut with the some spec. completes the DS-inspired look of the Neptunian. Meanwhile the case-back features a bold 3D-engraving of Neptune, the Roman God of the Sea. We can’t see it in any of the press pics. but the SkyDiver Neptunian also has an integrated Helium Escape Valve (HEV) on the side of its case at 9 o’clock. Finally the new SkyDiver Neptunian is powered by an automatic Caliber 80 movement, with a running time of 42-hours. The Edox SkyDiver Neptunian has an MSRP in Europe of 1’250€. Thoughts? While I can’t help poking fun at Edox’s sketchy backstory for the SkyDiver, on paper it looks to be a capable diver, derivative in its style, of course – it’s just 2’900m shy of being a total rip-off.

Still it’s nearly ten times more affordable than a DS S-D plus I quite like some of the watch’s aesthetic features like the play on the Benz minute hand and of course the case-back – I mean who doesn’t like Neptune! 

What do you think – sink or swim? 

 

2020-12-01

SEIKO Prospex Diver's 1968 SPB185J1 & SPB187J1

Here are a couple of new Prospex refs. based on the famous Diver’s 1968. Ref. SPB185J1 / JDM ref. SBDC125 and SPB187J1 / JDM ref. SBDC127 take their design cues from one of Seiko’s earliest dive watches, the Diver’s 300M which debuted in surprise, surprise – in 1968.

If you’re after something that more closely resembles that watch, look no further than the Diver’s RE-CREATION

Otherwise here’s one of many spiritual successors or modern interpretations of the iconic OG model from 1968.

Presented as a pair; SPB185J1 with its steel bezel and black dial, and SPB187J1 with its black bezel and sunray blue dial, the watches are powered by Seiko’s Cal. 6R35 automatic movement which has an accuracy of +25 to -15 seconds per day. While the historic model boasts 100 meters more water-resistance than these modern watches do with their 200m rating; something that they do have that truly trumps their ancestors is their DiaShield hardened Steel cases and Sapphire crystals. Those cases btw measure 42mm in diameter by 12.5mm thick, with lug-to-lug measurements of 48.8mm. The dials are with Seiko Lumibrite hours and hands while the crystals are with inner anti-reflective treatment.

The Seiko Prospex Divers 1968 SPB185J1 & SPB187J1 have an MSRP in Japan of 143,000 JPY (incl. tax) / approx. 1’400USD. The watches are available, worldwide as of today Dec. 1st 2020. 

STOP WHALING in JAPAN

2020-11-30

SQUALE Sub-39 SuperBLUE

Squale has added a new model to its Sub-39 collection – this little-boy-blue is the new Sub-39 SuperBlue.

The model distinguishes itself from other models in the collection not only by its dreamy, sea blue dial but with its set of “dauphine” hands. 

Seldom seen on a but not unheard of on a diver, the hands work beautifully with the dial’s oversized professional markers; making this the most legible of all the Sub-39 models.

As advertised the Sub-39 gets 39mm in diameter case. While this is a pint-sized diver it still has proper 300 meters of water-resistance. This has been constructed from 316L Stainless steel and fitted with a 120-click, brushed steel diver’s bezel and AR-treated domed sapphire crystal.

Powering the Sub-39 SuperBlue is a Swiss made Sellita SW200 automatic movement. Btw all hands and dial are with Swiss SLN. The watch has a Swiss MSRP is 1’189CHF. 

Thoughts? So nice, so small!

RADO Captain Cook Bronze BURGUNDY

Rado’s Captain Cook beams in bronze and burgundy!

This is the latest version of Rado’s Captain Cook Bronze which has been decked out with a stunning autumnal-toned dial and ceramic bezel in burgundy; 

an ideal color to pair with bronze and the perfect choice for the Red Bar watch collective who were among the first lucky punters to get their hands on one of these lovely new references.

First released in 2017, the CAPTAIN COOK is one of those watches like Oris’s Divers SIXTY-FIVE with a design that harks back to the 1960s, and which has garnered plenty of attention particularly among collectors thus spawning a ton of iterations as well as one or two collab’s such as the one with Revolution. In addition to case materials, the Captain Cook has been released with a few different case sizes – this Bronze ref. gets the larger 42mm diameter with a 12.5mm height which has been executed in an Al (aluminum) Bronze alloy.

Al Bronze is favored in maritime industries for its increased tensile strength over other bronze alloys such as CuSn8.

Unlike the more popular CuSn8 with its reddish tones, Al Bronze has a sandy tone which turning a dusky grey as it slowly patinas.

While Al Bronze is less reactive than some other alloys, it is still not really suitable as a case-back material which is why Rado have opted for hypoallergenic Titanium for the watch’s back. 

You can’t see it in any of the pics, but the case-back is also decorated with Rado’s historic seahorses and stars emblems in triplicate. Water-resistance btw is 300 meters.

Meanwhile the bold and the beautiful burgundy dial reveals a final model exclusive feature, a white date wheel with burgundy numerals. In addition to this the dial gets Rado’s hallmark gold-plated moving anchor symbol with a ruby back-plate. 

The dial is protected by an old school, domed Sapphire crystal. Wrapping around the crystal like a crimson lifebuoy is the diver’s bezel with its burgundy ceramic inlay.

Powering the Captain Cook Bronze Burgundy is an automatic mechanical movement the ETA Caliber C07 with an autonomy of up to 80 hours. 

Finally this handsome looking red devil is presented on a matching burgundy NATO strap with a gold pinstripe running down its center and delivered in a burgundy leather travel pouch along with an additional leather strap.   

The Rado Captain Cook Bronze Burgundy ref. 01.763.0504.3.540 has a Swiss MSRP of 2’600CHF.

Thoughts? I’ve been telling people for donkeys that bronze and burgundy are match made in heaven – here’s the proof! What do you think? 

 

2020-11-27

TAG Heuer Aquaracer BAMFORD Limited Edition

Here’s a new diver from TAG Heuer that we can finally get behind but can they really take any credit for it? Of course, some but most of it goes to Bamford! There literally hasn’t been a single diver’s model from TAG that has got my pulse racing quite like the first time I clamped eyes on a Super Professional – that was 20 years ago. Since the days of the inimitable Super Professional, TAG has either struggled or has showed very little interest in their diver’s watch collections; with each passing generation, the Aquaracer has been just as underwhelming as the next. Neither tool nor retro diver, it is somewhat low on personality. Today the Bamford Watch Department has addressed the Aquaracer’s case of ordinariness; elevating its status from humdrum to super-cool, tool-diver. TAG Heuer and famous UK customization house, Bamford Watch Department have come together for the second time to design a special, Limited Edition timepiece. The Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition has been designed as a reliable, professional tool watch made with eye-catching Titanium and featuring bold orange details. The collaboration is a new and exciting expression of how TAG Heuer and Bamford Watch Department are so well suited in their approach to design. In 2018, TAG Heuer and George Bamford co-created a special version of TAG’s Monaco. It never appeared on my radar but it was apparently pretty well received. This highly anticipated second collaboration puts Bamford Watch Department’s talent for twisting design codes with the spirit of re-imagination and TAG Heuer’s bold heritage. Together, they have created an exclusive diver’s watch that is bound to appeal to both TAG Heuer and diver’s watch fans - or at least those that like me have been waiting for an Aquaracer to come along that finally has a bit of attitude. Bamford Watch Department’s instantly recognizable style is apparent in the watch’s elegant black dial, which bears the Bamford name at 6 o’clock. Precise orange dashes are found on the hands, bezel and around the flange. The 43mm case, 60-minute scale, unidirectional rotational diver’s bezel and three-link sandblasted bracelet are all contrasted from hardy Grade 2 Titanium. While Grade 2 is a lesser grade than G5, it remains a lightweight, ultra-robust metal which is hypoallergenic as well as resistant to corrosion, which is why it is so often used in aeronautics. The watch’s black-gold-plated hands with orange lacquer have been treated with white Super-LumiNova while the applied Super-LumiNova indexes allow effortless reading in all lighting conditions. The case-back is also made from Grade 2 Titanium and is engraved with LIMITED ONE OF 1,500. Finally, beneath the case-back is the beating heart of this utilitarian beast, a Caliber 5 automatic movement. Thoughts? This is certainly a welcomed and refreshing take on (what is imo) an otherwise ordinary diver from a brand that I have always felt was the biggest under achiever in the diver’s watch segment.

There are tons of lovely details that have propelled the Aquaracer to new heights; however I struggle to understand why the dreaded cyclops wasn’t binned. Still super nice though. What do you think? 

http://www.tagheuer.com/int-en/home

2020-11-26

ZODIAC Super Sea Wolf GMT

Apparently you guys asked for them, so here they are; a duo of new Super Sea Wolf GMTs presented in either classic Stainless steel or Two-Tone Stainless steel and Gold IP.

Inspired by the very human desire for travel and exploration, a desire that has been pretty much stifled by the Pandemic, Zodiac originally created their GMT as an evolution of the famed Super Sea Wolf – 

back in 1966 – you know when England won the World Cup and I was barely the makings of twinkle in my dad’s eye; perhaps some of you were around?

Today this watch has been recreated or at least here is its spiritual successor the new Super Sea Wolf GMT which is powered by Soprod’s C125 automatic movement. The C125 is an alternative to those robust yet ubiquitous movements from ETA and Sellita and is said to be nicely finished, so where’s the exhibition back? A modular automatic movement with a GMT function beating at 4 Hz, the movement is based on the M100 formerly known as A10-2. The C125 is housed in a stylish vintage Stainless steel case which measures 40mm in diameter by 14mm in height and with a lug-to-lug measurement of x48mm. The watch’s semi-gloss black dial sports a bold red GMT hand that allows you to tell the time in two places simultaneously. Btw I don’t believe it is an independently geared GMT hand. Diver’s features include: a screw-down case-back and crown, a Sapphire crystal, a solid Stainless steel link bracelet and 200m of water-resistance.

Thoughts? Yes, this is absolutely an appealing pair of retro diving GMTs from Zodiac who are always on point with their designs. 

But call me mental if 1’795USD isn’t bordering on daylight blimmin’ robbery for a watch from Fossil, a brand that say pretty much sweet FA about their case manufacturing, quality of components, assembly and movement’s adjustment or lack thereof.

Could someone please tell me who is buying all these Zodiac watches cos’ I'm missing something here. All I’m seeing is great designs and clever marketing but where’s the substance? Someone feel free to educate me.

Meanwhile if you are interested in old school revivalist dive watch brands that proudly shout about their excellent manufacturing techniques etc etc. 

Look no further than Aquadive, Aquastar, Doxa, Ollech & Wajs and of course the very awesome ZRC.

 http://www.zodiacwatches.com/store/Zodiac/en_US/shop/zodiac-watches.html