OceanicTime Archives

2021-01-26

CERTINA DS Action Diver 38mm

Cast your mind back a decade or so ago, watches were much bigger than they are today, some would even argue that they were starting to get almost comical with their dimensions. 

 I myself was guilty of wearing a dinner plate or too on my wrist, so it was inevitable that there was going to be some sort of backlash against the big watch trend. 

Like it or not, fact is, wristwatches are getting smaller – well at least there appears to be a growing trend in the world of vintage reissues and retro inspired diver’s, those that are looking to offer a more authentic and faithful representation of what that watch was like to wear back in the day.

Now the trend for sub 40mm watches has become more mainstream, here’s just one response to the growing demand for these smaller watches – the new DS Action Diver 38mm from Certina. 

The DS Action Diver is one of Certina’s most popular models thanks to its classic style – toady it is mounted in a comfortable 38mm diameter case; 

however don’t let its modest stature fool you, this is still a very competent little diver which remains fully compliant with the demanding ISO 6425 standards for a diver’s watch.

It also comes with Certina’s Powermatic automatic mechanical movement which is equipped with an anti-magnetic NivachronTM balance spring – for maximum precision and resistance. 

Meanwhile its black lacquered dial sets off gold-coloured, SuperLumiNova-coated hour markers and hands, which guarantee clarity in the dark as well. 

They are framed by a unidirectional rotating bezel in emerald green aluminum with a gold-colored dive time scale and luminous marking.

A bi-colour Stainless steel bracelet with gold-coloured PVD links and a closure with diver’s extension round off this model. 

Beating in the heart of the 38mm diameter DS Action Diver is a state-of-the-art Powermatic movement with a power reserve up to 80 hours, now also fitted with a NivachronTM balance spring. 

This innovative material is immune to the influence of magnetic fields – which is a key advantage in everyday use, just as it is when diving, where the precision and reliability of the time display is of critical importance.

The complex mechanism is protected by a case that is water-resistant to a depth of 300 meters. 

This is made possible by the proven qualities of the Double Security (DS) concept together with a screw-down case-back and a screw-down and protected crown. 

MSRP in Switzerland for the two bi-color variants is 795CHF while the all steel variants come in at 755CHF.

Thoughts? It makes sense to offer a 38mm model in your collection these days, at least one that can sit alongside a larger sibling. 

If you still like big watches, there are still plenty of brands that continue you to offer larger models although realistically you won’t find much over 46mm.

However Panerai for instance still believe that their diver’s watches should have a more instrument–like quality so they for one still make larger diver's watches if you like em’ big. What do you think?

What size watch do you prefer? I found my sweet spot at 42mm but sometimes go up to 46mm or down to 40mm. I have a 38mm incoming; it’ll be interesting to see how it wears. 

https://www.certina.com/

2021-01-22

PANERAI Luminor Marina 44MM Guillaume Néry EDITION [the art of utility without utility]

This is it – this is the ultimate Pam diver – and you know what, it isn’t even a Submersible model. It’s an old school, fixed bezel, no nonsense, Italian naval diver and I think I might just have found my new grail. Wait a minute; this is a pretty familiar looking style! 

Nevertheless, someone lock me away, quick! All I need is this and a very large box Kleenex cos’ things are bout’ to get damn right intimate! Drool aside - I’m about to weep tears of joy and sadness all at the same time (why, what did you think I was gonna’ do???)!

Okay, so now that I’ve finished gushing like a deranged school girl who’s just met her celebrity crush only to discover he’s happily married to some bloke called Dave, let’s see exactly why this particular model is worthy of such acclaim and why it might cause some of us to shed a tear or least say – bollocks (UK English for damn it)!

Introducing the new Luminor Marina 44MM Guillaume Néry Edition AKA PAM01122, inspired by Panerai brand ambassador and world-class, constant weight freediving champion, Guillaume Néry. 

Drawing inspiration from Panerai’s rich historical archives while making the most of their wealth of technological know-how, this is could be the ultimate tool-watch, at least one that doesn’t have to try too hard – the art of utility without utility!

Demonstrating just how critical legibility is for a diving instrument, Panerai celebrates the 70th anniversary of the birth of Luminor, a patented tritium-based substance with luminescent properties, with this Limited Edition model available in only 70 pieces, and with a 70-year warranty. 

Yes, suck it up Oris with your measly 10-year warranty – we’ll match that and raise you 60 years! 

Available exclusively from Panerai boutiques, Worldwide, the new Luminor Marina 44mm Guillaume Néry Edition takes the diver’s watch and boils it down to its bare aesthetic elements, like the rubberized coating applied to the bezel, crown and bridge lever; the accentuated convex glass and the dial with an evocative dégradé effect that emulates the shades produced as sunlight filters through the depths of the ocean. 

A perfect harmony of old and contemporary horology, the new model reflects the Italian Swiss brand’s sophisticated approach to working with advanced materials cultivated by the Panerai Laboratorio di Idee, including DMLS (Direct Metal Laser Sintering) technology, which shapes Titanium using a 3D printing process. 

Powered by the Caliber P.9010, a self-winding movement measuring only 6mm thick and designed and developed entirely in-house at the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel, the new Luminor Marina 44mm − Guillaume Néry Edition is a tool diver among tool divers.

Its movement is equipped with double barrels for a three-day power reserve and a quick time adjustment function that can move forward or backward in increments of an hour and is connected automatically to the date indicator. 

In their endless pursuit for innovative methodologies to maintain and improve the performance of its diving instruments, Panerai redefines the concept of a guarantee by providing a monumental 70 years of coverage for the Luminor Marina 44mm − Guillaume Néry Edition.

Water-resistant up to 30 bar (300 meters deep), the Luminor Marina 44mm − Guillaume Néry Edition is bang on trend with a strap made from black recycled PET (plastic waste found in the oceans) material with white stitching and Panerai's iconic Pre-Vendome pin buckle. 

A white rubber technical strap, the very first to feature luminescent Officine Panerai personalization is included with each watch, along with a screwdriver to remove the buckle and a recycled plastic box engraved with the signature of Panerai ambassador Guillaume Néry. 

Meanwhile, the case-back is with an engraving depicting the silhouette of the free-diver and Ambassador Guillaume Néry.

Thoughts? With only 70 pieces available this is one watch that will have to remain at the lofty heights of its pedestal, placed excruciatingly out of reach; we’ll probably never even get to handle one, let alone add one to the stable but it’s not all bad news, it’s a pretty easy style to emulate, so likely there are already one or two more affordable offerings out there, or potentially more on the horizon. 

Oh, and if anyone dares to tells you that this isn’t a proper diver’s watch – slap them in the face with a wet fish and immediately disown them – well you should at least cross them off your Christmas card list because this here is part the diver’s watch origins story.

Getting back to why I love this watch (70-piece exclusivity and 70-yrs warranty aside); for me this is exactly the look that I find truly appealing – it’s very OceanicTime SE-esque with its blasted Titanium case and contrasting black - 

bezel, crown and case-back, minimalist style and naturally imbued with much badassery but I would have gone with DLC coated instead of rubberized components for longevity but with 70yrs warranty, there isn't much to worry about is there. What do you think?

Ps. while we’re on the subject of OT SEs, stay tuned for a very cool new OceanicTime SE coming this way soon!

 

Audaz PACIFIC BLUE T25

Dive into the blue, the Pacific Blue with AUDAZ Watches’ newest model, which joins their ever-growing fleet of diver’s watches. This is the new Audaz Pacific Blue Tritium T25 dive watch. Designing and developing diver’s watches is the backbone of the young HK-based brand, and with the introduction of a Tritium dive watch to their lineup Audaz have stepped have stepped up their game in delivering excellent value diver’s watches. The Pacific Blue T25 comes in a round 42mm cushion style case made from a solid block of 316L Stainless steel for maximum durability.

The surface of the Cushion case and H-Link band is finished with a mix of refined satin brush and shiny polishing. 

The unidirectional bezel moves 120 clicks, has large grooves for a firm grip, and features a premium ceramic insert that has engraved markers filled with Swiss Super-Luminova.

Legibility is the most important requirement for a professional dive watch; the Pacific Blue watch features a scratch resistant Sapphire crystal, below the Sapphire crystal is an immaculate matt finished dial complimented with raised indexes and uses 13 baton shaped micro gas tubes emitting a green glow, on the hands and indexes. The glow of these tubes lasts much longer than traditional luminescence without any need for external charging and has a 25 year life span. The Pacific Blue is available in 5 stunning color combinations, while its solid steel screw-down case-back has been deeply stamped with a motif of the submarine powering its way through the blue of the Pacific Ocean.

The Pacific Blue is constructed for 200 meters of water resistance and powered by a reliable automatic movement, the 24 jewel -NH35A Seiko. 

It is currently listed at 5550USD. For more info. on this or other models in Audaz’s extensive diver collection, follow the link HERE or the one embedded, below. 

 

2021-01-20

ORIS Carl Brashear Calibre 401 Limited Edition

Has Oris has just delivered the ultimate Divers Sixty-Five variant? 

I have to admit as someone who isn’t exactly the biggest fan of Oris’s most prevalent diver’s model (and therein lies the reason why I’ve never warmed to the Divers Sixty-Five – it's kinda' like a SWATCH, tons of bloody iterations) – this is pretty damn appealing!

This is the new Carl Brashear Caliber 401 Limited Edition watch and it has a hell of a lot going for it. 

First of all, it’s been made in honor of the legendary US Navy Master Diver, Carl Brashear – 

it is also powered by Oris’s brand new, high-performing, in-house Cal. 401 but aesthetically it has imo an absolutely stunning color pallet of bronze and the deepest navy blue.

Carl Brashear, btw had his incredible story depicted in the 2000 film, Men of Honor, in which he was portrayed by Oscar award winning actor, Cuba Gooding Jr. 

Carl was only 17 years old when he first joined the Navy in 1948; despite facing discrimination on account of his race he graduated from the Navy’s diving program in 1954. 

In 1966, he lost the lower part of his left leg in an accident during a mission to salvage a hydrogen bomb.

After an exhausting period of rehabilitation, he became the US Navy’s first amputee diver in 1968, and then went on to qualify as a Master Diver in 1970, becoming the US Navy’s first African American master diver. Carl Brashear retired in 1979. 

He died in 2006 aged 75.

In 2014, his foundation created the annual Navy Diver of the Year award to recognize the Navy diver who most embodies the courage and unwavering determination to succeed as displayed by Carl Brashear. It is just part of his incredible legacy. 

In 2016, Oris produced a LIMITED EDITION watch cast in bronze to honor Carl Brashear.

The 2,000 pieces proved extremely popular and, in 2018, a SECOND limited edition timepiece – this time an automatic chronograph, also cast in bronze and limited to 2,000 pieces - was produced.

A typical diver’s watch based on the Oris Divers Sixty-Five, it’s a fitting tribute to a man who brought about significant, meaningful change during his lifetime, and whose legacy endures today. 

So that’s Carl, an icon of a man and a military diving legend – so how about this, the third model that Oris named in honor of him.

Well, we know it’s based on the retro inspired Diver’s Sixty-Five model in bronze but what sets this model apart from the slew of DSFs before it is that it is powered by Oris’s manufacture movement, the Caliber 401 which is made its debut as the Cal. 400 is an AQUIS.

This is only the second model to be powered by the Cal. 400 / 401 which boasts a ton of innovations that make it a mechanical diver’s watch movement to be reckoned with. Here’s why: 

The Cal. 401 has been engineered to be highly anti-magnetic – using more than 30 non-ferrous and anti-magnetic components, including an Si (silicon) escape wheel and an Si anchor.

In testing by the renowned Laboratoire Dubois, Calibre 401 deviated by less than 10 seconds a day after exposure to 2,250 Gauss.

The Cal. 401 has a five-day power reserve so it’s ready to go when you are. 

It delivers this longer period of use via twin barrels, both of which house an extended mainspring, each long enough to store two-and-a-half days of power. 

It’s highly accurate, to -3/+5 seconds a day, better than a chronometer.

The Cal. 401 is offered with a 10-year warranty. Oris recommended 10-year service intervals only on all Cal. 400 series watches. 

This means that barring accidental damage or water-resistance checks, you shouldn’t need to take your Carl Brashear Cal. 401 Limited Edition for a service until 2031 at the earliest!

Basic spec. for the watch includes: a 40mm in diameter multi-piece bronze case, a box-shape sapphire crystal, and a domed, dark navy blue dial with golden / bronze hands and markers.

The case-back is in Stainless steel with a special old school, deep sea diver’s helmet motif. Water-resistance is limited to just 10bar AKA 100m. 

The watch is presented on a Marine Nationale-style woven strap in blue with a white pinstripe down its middle and a solid bronze buckle, which were specially produced in partnership with Erika’s Originals.

As a Limited Edition of 2,000 pieces, each watch is delivered in a special presentation box, shown below.

The new Oris Carl Brashear Caliber 401 Limited Edition ref. 01 401 7764 3185-Set has a Swiss retail price 3,900CHF and is available from January 2021.

Thoughts? This 401 powered beauty has the good looks to go with its high-tech, mechanical beating heart. 

I absolutely love the minimalist approach to the dial design, love the colors combo too. I’d be absolutely tickled pink with one of these! What do you think?

2021-01-17

SEIKO Prospex PADI Special Editions SSC795J1 & SPB181J1

Here’re a couple new Special Edition Prospex PADIs for you! Ref. SSC795J1 (JP ref. SBDL067) which is Solar Chronograph and SPB181J1 (JP ref. SBDC121) which is an auto. As watches made in partnership with PADI (The Professional Association of Diving Instructors) they come with two-tone red and blue AKA Pepsi bezels and black dials with the PADI logo. The chrono is powered by Seiko’s Solar-powered V192 cal. which has an accuracy of ±15 seconds per month. Meanwhile the auto model is powered by Seiko’s cal. 6R35 with an accuracy of +25 to -15 seconds per day. Diver’s features for both models include: Stainless steel cases which are water-resistant to 200m, sapphire crystals, hands and markers with Seiko Lumibrite and steel link bracelets with diver’s trip-lock clasps. The auto btw has magnetic-resistance. Prospex ref. SBDL067 has a Japanese MSRP of 81,400 JPY inlc. tax or 74,000 JPY excl. tax; while ref. SBDC121 has an MSRP of 96,800 incl. tax or 88,000 JPY excl. tax.  

STOP WHALING in JAPAN

SEIKO Prospex x NEIGHBORHOOD ref. SBDY077

Japanese street-wear brand, NEIGHBORHOOD turns up the contrast on the Prospex Tuna for hungry hypebeasts. This is ref. SBDY077, NEIGHBORHOOD’s good looking take on Seiko’s famous Tuna Can diver, nicknamed so for its plastic case shrouding. The watch is based on the current Diver’s 200m Auto which is powered by the cal. 4R35. Accuracy btw is +45 to -35 seconds per day. The watch has been given a few tasty styling tweaks plus the prerequisite branding as found on the dial in bold red, on the rubber diver’s strap’s steel keeper and of course on case-back along with its LE#.

The Limited Edition of 1’000 pieces (likely sold out by the time you read is) is JDM only model. It has an MSRP 75,900 JPY (incl. tax) / 69,000 JPY excl. tax) 

STOP WHALING in JAPAN