Dive Watch Releases / Articles

2015-01-23

CLERC Hydroscaph H1 STEEL + WATER

By TLex Take 1x highly-technical diving instrument that has been built to uncompromising standards using the latest in high-tech materials and simply add water – the perfect recipe for aquatic exploration and luxury time-travel!



Here’s another look at the stunning H1 Steel getting a wee bit wet! First released in 2013, it is a model of the CLERC’s exclusive Hydroscaph collection. It sports an impressive lineup of features that includes an exclusive automatic C609 COSC-certified chronometer movement offering fantastic precision and reliability.



Beating at a high frequency of 4 Hz, 28,800 vibrations per hour, the C609 caliber is functionally simple with hours, minutes, seconds, date and a power-reserve of 42 hours, while boasting a highly demanding level of finishing that includes hand-finished bridges, blued screws and an open-worked rotor - visible through an exhibition caseback.



C609 caliber is housed arguably, one the most sophisticated dive watch cases on the market – meeting three concurrent CLERC design requirements: exceptional aesthetics, innovative construction, and functional usefulness. It is assembled from 81 components and ensures water-resistance of 500 meters.



Comfort is also part of the H1 package, with adaptable lugs perfectly molding the wearer’s wrist curve even when worn over a neoprene diving suit. And of course, the case features CLERC’s signature octagonal-shaped “perfect square in a perfect circle” rotating bezel.



Once set, the bezel is locked using the unique C|CLIP mechanism - a retractable flap on a dedicated crown integrated into the case side at 2 o’clock. Returning the C|CLIP to its initial position securely locks the bezel, thus avoiding any risk of accidental deregulation while diving. And the adaptable lugs ensure a perfect fit on all wrist sizes and shapes, including over a diving suit.



The clear, crisp H1 dial is super easy to read in daylight or darkness thanks to the Super-LumiNova coating on the hands and hour-markers. The individually machined 3D numerals and hour markers give the H1 a boldly assertive character. When viewed from the front, they appear slightly trapezoid-shaped, while ensuring maximum readability from all angles. Like them, the hands also display a post-industrial look and are coated with Super-LumiNova for perfect visibility in the dark.



The inimitably stylish and elegant CLERC Hydroscaph H1 offers a range of declinations designed to satisfy a wide range of personal preferences. The case itself comes in high-density steel, with or without a black DLC coating on the bezel, case center, or entire case.



Dials comes in a choice of blue, black or grey, while the seconds hand and the triangular date marker at 3 o’clock spice things up with touches of blue, red khaki or fluorescent yellow.



Available in black, blue, red or khaki vulcanized rubber, as well as black, navy blue or chestnut brown Louisiana alligator leather versions, the strap with its folding clasp sets the perfect finishing touch to the CLERC Hydroscaph H1. A steel metal bracelet has been available for the H1 since December 2014. The Hydroscaph H1’s suggested retail price ranges from 5900 to 7300 CHF (5900 to 7300USD).

2015-01-22

CHRISTOPHER WARD C60 Tirdent [new collection] with In-House CALIBRE SH21

By TLex Christopher Ward have announced a handsome new version of their iconic C60 Trident Diver family. Radically re-engineering and with plenty of design advancement across the range.

From the new entry-level Quartz to the flagship COSC model that is powered by Christopher Ward’s first in-house movement, the Caliber SH21, the new Trident collection sets out to raise the bar in terms of enhanced quality and choice at every price point.



The C60 Trident Pro and C60 Trident GMT are once again at the heart of the Trident collection, powered by the same tried and tested movements, which have been enhanced by a host of innovations.

Heading up the new collection, the flagship C60 Trident COSC, features Christopher Ward’s in-house movement, the Caliber SH21. It is only CW's second model to carry the pioneering innovation.



Not quite as exciting but audacious nevertheless, is the arrival of an entry-level Quartz model, the C60 Trident 300 that is powered by an accurate Swiss Ronda 515 caliber.

While the Trident family has been re-engineered, utilizes upgraded materials and boasts several design enhancements; it is unmistakably a CW Trident and retains much DNA, such as the retention of signature features such as the hands, Trident counter- balance and wave pattern guilloche dial.



The new baton-style markers of the mechanical versions have been deep-filled with new SuperLuminovaTM SLN T C1 lume to provide brighter and extended luminosity above that of the Mark 1 model.

The new Trident case, in marine-grade 316L Stainless steel, clearly echoes the design of the original but has been comprehensively re-engineered incorporating new sharper and improved lines and finishing. The three mechanical versions are capable of withstanding water pressure at up to 600m and have been upgraded to include Zirconia ceramic (Zr02) bezels. The quartz version has keeps the original’s aluminum bezel, and as its name suggests, is capable of depths to 300m.



On to the new caseback, with the Trident logo deep- stamped into the Stainless steel plate, producing a 3D-effect that was first seen in the C65 Trident Classic.

Complementing the expanded range of model, case size, movement and bezel combinations are re-designed natural rubber divers straps, Italian leather straps, a leather NATO strap and a marine-grade Stainless steel bracelet, creating a total of no less than, 133 versions of Trident.



The C60 Trident COSC Limited Edition (42mm) is available as a worldwide limited edition of just 300 pieces and features Christopher Ward’s in-house movement, Caliber SH21, at the heart of this chronometer version. Retail price: From 1500GBP



THe C60 Trident Pro 600 (38mm and 42mm) has been meticulously upgraded in every part of this most iconic of action timepieces and water tightness has been radically improved to achieve depths of up to 600 meters (2000 ft) – twice that of its famous predecessor. Retail price: From 599GBP



The C60 Trident GMT 600 (38mm and 42mm) Combining quality, reliability and style a dual- time automatic watch with the supremely accurate and robust ETA 2893-2 automatic movement beating at its core. Retail price: From 799GBP

The C60 Trident 300 (38mm and 42mm) is the entry point into the Trident collection and the perfect expression of Christopher Ward’s ambition ‘to make premium quality watches available to everyone’. The rugged uni-directional bezel is constructed of aviation grade aluminum and this model is watertight to 300 meters / 1000 feet. Retail price: From 299GBP

2015-01-20

PANERAI Mare Nostrom TITANIO 52MM

By TLex Yes, at 52mm this is a big boy, but thanks to its Titanium construction, the gorgeous new Mare Nostrum Ti AKA PAM00603 should still be pretty wearable (I’d certainly rock one). The Mare Nostrom in fact was first made by Officine Panerai in 1943 for the deck officers of the Royal Italian Navy and has been released as part of its 2015 Special Editions collection in a series of just 150 pieces.



The name ‘Mare Nostrum’ comes from Latin and means ‘Our Sea’, a reference to the Mediterranean sea from the times of the Roman Empire. Many centuries after; between 1941 and 1942, there was a short period when Italy spoke again of ‘Mare Nostrum’: this was during the Second World War, when the victorious missions of the Royal Italian Navy meant that for a short time a wide area of the Mediterranean Sea was controlled by the Italian fleet.



In 1943, the Panerai family created a chronograph for the deck officers of the Royal Italian Navy and called it ‘Mare Nostrum’, a name that had already been used by Guido Panerai in 1924 for what was likely the first Panerai chronograph. Sadly, all traces of this first chrono have been lost.



However a few prototypes of the 1943 chronograph do still exist; these were used so that the 2010 STEEL Mare Nostrum and the new Titanium version could be reconstructed with great technical accuracy and with similar aesthetic characteristics. The new Mare Nostrum Titanio is a Special Edition consisting of only 150 watches. It faithfully reproduces the 1943 model while updating it to the highest standards of today’s high-end watch-making and with some fundamental differences compared to the original.



The first difference compared to the vintage watch is the material from which the large 52mm in diameter case is made from. The metal used for the tonneau-shaped case is not steel but brushed Titanium, a material which combines excellent non-allergenic properties and greater lightness than steel with the structural toughness needed to resist high pressure, external stresses and corrosion. 



The wide flat bezel, the screwdown caseback and the winding crown engraved with the words ‘Mare Nostrum’ are all made of brushed Titanium. Water-resistance is however is only 3 bars, the equivalent depth of just 30 meters.



The chronograph functions are controlled by two classic chrono-pushers, also made of brushed Titanium, and the readings are indicated by the central seconds hand and by a sub-minutes counter dial at three o’clock. The continuous seconds hand rotates in a sub-dial at nine o’clock.



Protected by a Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment, the dial is made in two levels and, instead of the dark green of the vintage model, it is a sophisticated tobacco brown, to match the brown leather strap and its ecru stitching.



The new version of the Mare Nostrum has a hand-wound manufacture movement: the OP XXV caliber developed on a Minerva 13-22 base; it is 12¾ lignes in diameter and has a balance wheel making 18,000 vibrations per hour, like the Angelus movement of the vintage prototype. This is a high quality watch-making caliber, hand-finished, with top-of-the-range technical details such as the column wheel and the swan neck regulator. The bridges are made of Maillechort, a nickel silver alloy that is particularly hard to work, and they have a sophisticated Côtes de Genève finish.

2015-01-19

PANERAI Luminor SUBMERSIBLE 1950 3 Days Chrono FLYBACK Automatic TITANIO [PAM00615]

By TLex Finally a proper bonafide diving chrono from Panerai that isn't a regatta watch! It’s been a while since we saw a Submersible chronograph from Panerai; (to my knowledge) there hasn’t been one since the Luminor Submersible 1950 Chrono 1000m Slytech AKA PAM00202 from 2005 or the PAM 00187 from 2004.



Introducing the new Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Titanio AKA PAM00615. PANERAI have released two new models with the Luminor 1950 case in brushed Titanium, which have an automatic chronograph caliber with flyback function. They are available with either a unidirectional rotational divers bezel in solid Titanium [PAM00614] or in Titanium with a black ceramic insert [PAM00615].



Many key innovations that have marked the history of the mechanical wristwatch were developed for the military during the first half of the last century. Requiring the highest possible quality from their instruments, the specialist forces that often employed them whilst operating in extreme conditions made use many of the functions that are, today found in luxury sports and divers watches.




The new Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Titanio from Officine Panerai brings together features which are military in their origins. They appear as two contemporary watches with a strong sporting characters and with great personalities and the purest Panerai identity.



As is the case with all Panerai models, the main point of reference is of course that of the sea. Professional underwater models that are water-resistant to a pressure of 30 bar ( an equivalent depth of about 300 meters), the new Luminor Submersible 1950 watches have a 47mm in diameter Luminor 1950 cases. The iconic design of the case, is immediately recognizable by its device protecting the winding crown whose historic origins go back to the model created by Officine Panerai in 1956 for the Egyptian Navy: the unidirectional rotating bezel for calculating dive-time.



Two versions of this are available: one with a bezel made entirely of brushed Titanium [PAM00614] and the other with a special bezel of Titanium to which a matte black ceramic insert has been applied, with linear markers and dots in titanium [PAM00615]. Both models are supplied with a black rubber strap, soft and durable, ideal for an underwater watch and personalized with the OP logo in Panerai blue.



The other function of the new Luminor Submersible 1950 originating from the military in the 1930s is that of the flyback chronograph. Also known as the ‘retour en vol’, this function enables the chronograph hand that is already moving to be zeroed and instantly restarted by a single pressure, without it being necessary first to stop the hand and then to return it to zero. In the Luminor Submersible 1950 the push button which controls the stopping and starting of the chronograph is at ten o’clock, while the push button at eight o’clock operates the flyback function and zeros the chronograph hand after it has been stopped.



To ensure the simplest and clearest possible reading, the chronograph minutes and seconds hands are both positioned centrally on the central dial and distinguished from each other by being different colors: the seconds hand is blue while the minute hand is rhodium plated, advancing instantaneously with a jump every sixty seconds. The colors chosen for the hands enhance the minimalist design of the black dial, with its dot-shaped hour markers and simple figures, and the small continuous seconds counter at nine o’clock. The two models have different elements at three o’clock: the model with the titanium bezel has the date window in this position while the model with ceramic bezel has the chronograph hour counter there.




The movement of the Luminor Submersible 1950is the P.9100 caliber, the first automatic chronograph caliber developed and made in the Panerai manufacture in Neuchâtel. Many details bear witness to its sophisticated construction: the vertical clutch, the column wheel, the two spring barrels connected in series which guarantee a power reserve of three days, the oscillating weight which winds the spring barrels as it moves in both directions, and the variable inertia balance which oscillates at 28,800 vibrations per hour. 

To ensure the greatest accuracy when adjusting the watch, the mechanism has the device for stopping the balance wheel and the system which enables the hour hand to be moved backwards or forwards in jumps of precisely one hour, without interrupting the movement of the minute hand. The movement consists of 302 components and it is 13¾ lignes in diameter and 8.15 mm thick.



Both versions of the Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Titanio - 47mm are supplied with a spare strap, a screwdriver and the special tool for changing the strap.

PANERAI Luminor SUBMERSIBLE 1950 3 Days Chrono FLYBACK Automatic TITANIO [PAM00614]

By TLex Introducing the new Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Titanio AKA PAM00614. PANERAI have released two new models with the Luminor 1950 case in brushed Titanium, which have an automatic chronograph caliber with flyback function. They are available with either a unidirectional rotational divers bezel in solid Titanium [PAM00614] or in Titanium with a black ceramic insert [PAM00615].



Many key innovations that have marked the history of the mechanical wristwatch were developed for the military during the first half of the last century. Requiring the highest possible quality from their instruments, the specialist forces that often employed them whilst operating in extreme conditions made use many of the functions that are, today found in luxury sports and divers watches.



The new Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Titanio from Officine Panerai brings together features which are military in their origins. They appear as two contemporary watches with a strong sporting characters and with great personalities and the purest Panerai identity.





 As is the case with all Panerai models, the main point of reference is of course that of the sea. Professional underwater models that are water-resistant to a pressure of 30 bar ( an equivalent depth of about 300 meters), the new Luminor Submersible 1950 watches have a 47mm in diameter Luminor 1950 cases. The iconic design of the case, is immediately recognizable by its device protecting the winding crown whose historic origins go back to the model created by Officine Panerai in 1956 for the Egyptian Navy: the unidirectional rotating bezel for calculating dive-time.



Two versions of this are available: one with a bezel made entirely of brushed Titanium (PAM00614) and the other with a special bezel of Titanium to which a matte black ceramic insert has been applied, with linear markers and dots in titanium (PAM00615). Both models are supplied with a black rubber strap, soft and durable, ideal for an underwater watch and personalized with the OP logo in Panerai blue.




The other function of the new Luminor Submersible 1950 originating from the military in the 1930s is that of the flyback chronograph. Also known as the ‘retour en vol’, this function enables the chronograph hand that is already moving to be zeroed and instantly restarted by a single pressure, without it being necessary first to stop the hand and then to return it to zero. In the Luminor Submersible 1950 the push button which controls the stopping and starting of the chronograph is at ten o’clock, while the push button at eight o’clock operates the flyback function and zeros the chronograph hand after it has been stopped.



To ensure the simplest and clearest possible reading, the chronograph minutes and seconds hands are both positioned centrally on the central dial and distinguished from each other by being different colors: the seconds hand is blue while the minute hand is rhodium plated, advancing instantaneously with a jump every sixty seconds. The colors chosen for the hands enhance the minimalist design of the black dial, with its dot-shaped hour markers and simple figures, and the small continuous seconds counter at nine o’clock. The two models have different elements at three o’clock: the model with the titanium bezel has the date window in this position while the model with ceramic bezel has the chronograph hour counter there.



 The movement of the Luminor Submersible 1950is the P.9100 caliber, the first automatic chronograph caliber developed and made in the Panerai manufacture in Neuchâtel. Many details bear witness to its sophisticated construction: the vertical clutch, the column wheel, the two spring barrels connected in series which guarantee a power reserve of three days, the oscillating weight which winds the spring barrels as it moves in both directions, and the variable inertia balance which oscillates at 28,800 vibrations per hour.

To ensure the greatest accuracy when adjusting the watch, the mechanism has the device for stopping the balance wheel and the system which enables the hour hand to be moved backwards or forwards in jumps of precisely one hour, without interrupting the movement of the minute hand. The movement consists of 302 components and it is 13¾ lignes in diameter and 8.15 mm thick.



Both versions of the Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Titanio - 47mm are supplied with a spare strap, a screwdriver and the special tool for changing the strap.

PANERAI Luminor Submersible1950 CARBOTECH™ 3 Days AUTOMATIC

By TLex Last year IWC wowed us with a stunning new AQUATIMER collection, this year it is fellow Richemont Group favorite, Officine Panerai who have taken to the sea with a stunning new Submersible collection lunched a SIHH 2015 in Geneva, today.

Sadly there wasn't the reissue of the 1980s Mille Metri that I had hope for, but Panerai have nevertheless excelled themselves – and for me the standout model has to be the new Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech™ 3 Days Automatic AKA PAM00616, which epitomizes the popular marriage between modern and vintage. With its cutting-edge Carbotech case, it calls into question the use of traditional metals such as steel. Surely this is the future (the here and now) of the modern mechanical dive watch!



Each and every new Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech™ is unique and different from the others thanks to the technical and aesthetic characteristics of Carbotech, a new composite material which is making its debut in high-end watch-making with Officine Panerai.

One of Panerai’s greatest assets in watch-design is its ability to draw upon a fantastic military diving heritage to combine notes from its past with the latest in watch-making trends and innovations. In 2011, they wowed us with a Luminor Submersible that for the first time had a case made of BRONZO, an ancient material with unmistakable nautical connection, personalized by ageing with the passage of time.



Today, Officine Panerai’s Workshop of Ideas has its eye firmly fixed on the present and future with a remarkable new technical case material that has been used for the Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech™. Carbotech, a composite material based on carbon fiber has never before been used in the watch-making. I’m pretty sure there are similar carbon-based composite cases on the market such as LW’s new CARBON, but this is a first. As well as providing exceptional technical performance, carbotech has an uneven, matt black appearance, which when cut results in an example that is unique.



The structure of carbotech is designed to enhance both the aesthetics and the performance of the material. It has been used to make the case, the rotational divers bezel and the Panerai’s trademark lever bridge which protects the winding crown. To form the plates of carbotech from which these components are made, thin sheets of carbon fibers are compressed at a controlled temperature under high-pressure together with a high-end polymer known as PEEK (Polyether Ether Ketone) thus binding the composite material so that it is even stronger and more durable.



The carbon fiber strands that are used are very long, so as to ensure great aesthetic uniformity, the sheets are superimposed and pressed together in such a way that the fibers of each layer are set at a different angle to the ones above and below. With this structure, the mechanical properties of carbotech are much higher than those of similar materials or of other materials used in the world of watch-making, such as ceramics and titanium: carbotech is lighter than these and much more resistant to external solicitations, as well as being hypoallergenic and not subject to corrosion.
While the watch’s case material might be futuristic, every other design detail of the watch is faithfully inspired by the brand’s history.



The Luminor 1950 47mm case was developed by Panerai in the late 1940s to be worn on the wrists of commandos of the Italian Navy. It is fitted with a divers bezel with its markers consisting of small studs, inspired by the legendary Egiziano that was made for the Egyptian Navy in 1956. The bezel rotates only anticlockwise and enables dive-time to be calculated: a useful function for a professional divers instrument which has been WR tested to 30 bar, the equivalent of 300 meters.



The dial of the new Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech™ is black with applied hour markers, the date window is at three o'clock and the sub-seconds counter marked by Panerai blue details is at nine o'clock. The screwdown caseback, which helps to ensure the watch’s water-resistance, is made of Titanium with a black DLC treatment. It is engraved with elements characteristic of the Panerai brand: “Florence 1860”, the city and year of birth of Panerai watchmaking, and the image of a Slow Speed Torpedo (SLC), the notorious "pig" on which in the 1940s the commandos of the Italian Navy sailed through the depths of the sea on their missions while wearing instruments made by Panerai.



At the mechanical heart of the Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech™ is the P.9000 automatic caliber, developed in-house by the Officine Panerai manufacture in Neuchâtel. The movement, 13¾ lignes in diameter, has two spring barrels giving a power reserve of three days, and the oscillating weight rotates in both directions. To ensure accuracy when setting the time, the movement has the device which stops the balance wheel while the hour hand moves forward or backward in increments of one hour, without interfering with the progress of the minute hand. The oscillation frequency of the balance is 28,800 vibrations per hour.



The new Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech™ is fitted with a black rubber strap, personalized for the first time by the OP logo in Panerai blue.