OceanicTime Archives

2020-08-06

IWC Aquatimer Automatic Edition BOESCH

While Panerai has been producing new diver’s models like a mad Duracell bunny on heat, one other Richemont Group watch brand that also has a strong dive watch heritage has been largely neglected – in short we have been starved of new diver’s models from IWC for literally years! And special editions don't count!



So even though this is a special edition, perhaps it is at least something, a new Limited Edition Aquatimer made in collaboration with Boesch, a boat builder based on Lake Zurich. This is third time that IWC Schaffhausen and Boesch has collaborated on a watch.



Perhaps you remember THIS Aquatimer Chronograph from 2008. Yes, I know - my desktop publishing skills weren’t quite what they are today ;)



As is often the case, these types of watches mark an important date; in this instance, a 100 year anniversary, which is why IWC has created the special edition, limited to 100 pieces, Aquatimer Automatic Edition Boesch.



The watch is basically a pimped version of the Aquatimer Automatic so shares pretty much the same basic specifications as that watch. However it has a rather stylish Boesch boat-inspired livery which includes:

a mechanical external/internal rotating bezel with SafeDive system in brown, gold-plated appliqué indexes and hands, a gold-tipped brown central seconds hand and a brown rubber strap with IWC-patented quick-change system.



The watch is powered by the IWC-owned manufacture caliber 82110 with: 60 hours of power reserve, date window at 3 o’clock, Côtes de Genève, perlage plus a rotor with an 18-carat gold boat-propeller medallion. Water-resistance is 300m.

The Aquatimer Automatic Edition Boesch ref. IW341002 has a Swiss MSRP of 11’900CHF.




Thoughts? What’s not to like? Swiss dive watches and luxury boats, the recipe for a successful marriage but could IWC please pop out one or two new offspring sometime soon. Anyway what do you think? Swanky yet tasteful?

2020-08-05

TRASER P67 SuperSub 50ATM

Traser, are you sure? I hear you say. And I hear you; they aren’t really one of the types of brands that we usually cover here, and that’s not say that they are in anyway sub-par but because I would consider them airing a little too heavily on the no-nonsense side of watchmaking.



Traser Swiss H3 Watches, are the watch brand of MB-Microtec, a Swiss company well known for its manufacture of Tritium gas tubes, used to illuminate watch hands and numerals. Not unlike contemporary, Luminox (who btw MB-Microtec supply with Tritium Tubes), the Swiss brand are well known their Trigalight® illuminated watches.



However unlike Luminox who boast collaborative collections with the US Navy SEALs, Bear Grylls and Scott Cassell among others and has garnered itself a relatively strong brand image as a quality entry-level Swiss luxury sports-watchmaker, while Traser has never managed to attract anyway near the level of desirability.



Today Traser have released what I would consider to be their first proper (professional) diver’s watch, the new P67 SuperSub, a dive watch with a pretty decent level of specification by all accounts, but I fear whose styling is a good decade out of step.



Basic spec. includes a 46mm in diameter Stainless steel case with 500 meters of water-resistance.

This is fitted unidirectional rotational diver’s bezel with a ceramic inlay, an AR-treated Sapphire crystal and a screw-down case-back and crown. There seems to be a manual HEV at 10 o’clock, too.



The case-back features a polished deep sea anglerfish motif. While I truly appreciate the sentiment (who doesn’t want a deep sea critter on the back of their watch), the deep sea anglerfish, lives at depths of over 3,000 feet (914 meters), so perhaps this was a bit of an optimistic choice for a 500m diver.



Powering the P67 SuperSub is Swiss Quartz caliber. Its dial is with Trigalight & Trigalight-hairlight illumination while the seal around the Sapphire glass is also made from luminous material creating a unique halo-effect around the dial – pretty cool!

There are some 12x dial, lume, strap / bracelet and packaging options to choose from for the P67 SuperSub. It has a Swiss MSRP from approx. 585 – 750 CHF (model dependent).



Thoughts? The watch has a pretty good spec. so should serve well. It has a bad ass lume situation going on and I’m still a fan of the case-back critter but otherwise the design is lacking in imagination.

I’d take a Luminox over one of these any day of the week. But, hey still an interesting find for August. What do you think?

https://www.traser.com/

2020-08-04

BLANCPAIN Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe SEDNA® GOLD in BLUE

It’s bling but not quite as you know it! Blancpain is offering all the luster of gold but with all durability that one would expect to find on a high-quality Swiss diver.

This is the new Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Sedna® Gold, a watch crafted from Sedna® gold – a gold, copper and palladium alloy with all the looks of red gold but with added durability.



The Bathyscaphe is one of Blancpain’s old school diver’s watches, it was reissued in 2013 as modern interpretation as a celebration of the 60th anniversary of the Fifty Fathoms.

Since then, the Bathyscaphe collection has grown to include a wide choice of models, both in terms of complications and materials such as ceramic.



Today (for the first time) the Bathyscaphe combines a blue dial and bezel with a Sedna® gold case to create a truly enticing aesthetic.

Blue, says Blancpain symbolizes their passion and commitment to the underwater world. This deep color owes its shimmering oceanic reflection thanks to the sunburst finish of the dial.



Meanwhile rectangular hour-markers and the chapter ring composed of gold and SuperLumiNova dots echo the watch’s high-tech golden-red case.

Recalling the OG Bathyscaphe watches of the 50s, the hour and minute hands are also rectangular, are coated with SuperLumiNova®, and as the main case, are crafted from Sedna® gold.



These are complemented by a slim seconds hand and a date window offset at an angle between 4 and 5 o’clock.



The unique (to the SWATCH Group) Sedna gold case measures 43mm in diameter. It has a satin finish that helps to give it more of sporty look, plus a Sedna® gold unidirectional rotating bezel with a ceramic insert and a Ceragold dive-time scale and hour-markers. Water-resistance is 300 meters.



Powering this luxurious new diver is the 1315 caliber, self-winding movement which specially developed and produced by Blancpain to equip its diver’s watches.

Its boasts three series-coupled barrels which allow for a whopping power-reserve of five-days! Its balance features an Si (silicon) balance-spring that not ensures remarkable regularity of the oscillation frequency but also impermeability to magnetic fields.



Finally the Cal. 1315 is both protected and show-cased via a Sapphire case-back affording views of the movement with its sandblasted, satin-finished and snailed Sedna® gold oscillating weight engraved with the Blancpain logo, along with snailed and beveled bridges.



Thoughts? Wow, this is damn nice! Anyone who says that gold watches are only for old codgers and ballers, is wrong. This is a utilitarian looking diver that offers a luxurious yet subtle style.

Does it compare to the new MOKARRAN Bathyscaphe? No way but it is perhaps the gold dive watch that you never knew you wanted. What do you think?

2020-08-03

SEIKO Prospex Sumo SBDC113

Here’s a newish Prospex ref. that I had intended to post a few weeks ago, but (allow me to quickly clear my throat) somehow I forgot. :-/

The Sumo fans among you might well have seen the glitzy new GINZA Sumo – well this is a return normality, not a hint of gold anywhere.



Rather this new Sumo draws attention to itself with an ocean blue dial and bezel plus a bold pop of lime / acid green which has been used for its seconds indicator as well as it WR-text.

JDM Ref. SBDC113 is a Limited Edition of 1’000 pieces. It has and MSRP of 104,500 JPY (incl. tax) 95,000 JPY excl. tax. I am unaware of any non JDM refs, at the moment.



Like any modern-day Sumo, this watch gets 45mm Stainless steel case with DiaShield protection, a Sapphire crystal and dial with Seiko Lumibrite on its hands and indexs.

Diver’s features include: a screw-down case-back and crown, a diver’s bezel also with LumiBrite, anti-magnetic resistance and 200m of water-resistance.




Powering the watch is a 24 jewel, Seiko 6R35 automatic with a hacking seconds hand and date function. The 6R35 has an accuracy of +25 to -15 seconds per day.

https://www.seiko-watch.co.jp/prospex/

STOP WHALING in JAPAN

2020-08-02

GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SeaQ 39.5MM BLUE

Glashütte Original has expanded its SeaQ diver’s line to include a new 39.5mm variant in blue.

The SeaQ family currently offers models in two case sizes; the SeaQ 1969 and SeaQ in 39.5mm and the SeaQ Panorama Date in 43.2mm.



The latter debuted in blue with a big date. Today you can get that same lovely galvanic blue sunray finished dial in the more modestly sized 39.5mm case with a small date. The case thickness, btw is 12.15mm.



Like that model, this new SeaQ’s intense blue dial is accompanied by a dazzling blue bezel, not a Sapphire crystal inlay like its larger sibling, rather a high-tech, scratch-resistant ceramic inlay.



I could mention how blue is evocative of the ocean or that it’s the last color on the spectrum to remain visible as you descend into the deep or some other fluff.

But it’s simply the latest variant in the SeaQ’s ever expanding family however it does just happen to be a particularly appealing look.



Now all GO need to do is offer just one more blue variant, only with vintage lume –would surely be their coup de grâce!

The dial of this particular model is with white applied numerals and indexes with SuperLumiNova inlays and white hands also with SLN inlays.



GO introduced the SeaQ diver’s watches as part of their new Spezialist collection last year. They drew inspiration for the collection from their OG diver’s watch, the Spezimatic Type RP TS 200 from 1969.



Like all SeaQ’s (except the new RED GOLD models that is), this model has a Stainless steel case. And like all 39.5mm models it has a water-resistance of 200 meters.



It was also TESTED for conformance with DIN 8306 and ISO 6425 standards and so meets the most rigorous German and international quality standards in terms of water-resistance, legibility, shock resistance, resistance to salt-water corrosion and many other criteria.



Its case-back has been engraved, aligned and then secured in place with a threaded bottom ring. The alignment if I am correct means the engraved motif always remains perfectly balanced after it has been removed and placed back.



The engraving shows the trident maritime symbol, the Glashütte Original double-G and 20 waves, which represent the 20-bar water resistance, also DIN 8306 which relates to its conformity.

The watch is powered by a GO manufactory Caliber 39-11 automatic movement which features a running time of 40 hours, a second-stop function and a date window at 3 o’clock.



The Cal. 39-11 also boasts exquisite finishing with a skeletonized rotor with heavy metal oscillation weight beveled edges polished steel parts polished screws Glashütte stripe finish swan-neck fine adjustment.



Finally this new blue SeaQ is available with three strap versions: a black rubber strap with relief pattern, a water-resistant blue nylon mesh strap and a Stainless steel bracelet with 8-step fine adjustment mechanism.



Price is available upon request from all authorized GO dealers, worldwide.

Thoughts? Super nice! If like me you feel 39.5mm is too small, as previously mentioned there’s the 300m, 43.2mm, PAN DATE. What do think – nicer than Rolex?

https://www.glashuette-original.com/homepage

2020-07-31

TAG HEUER Aquaracer 43mm KHAKI Animation QUARTZ

TAG Heuer has released a trio of new Aquaracers for the summer. The first diver, which has actually already been available since June,

is this ruggedly handsome olive-green khaki variant, while the following two models which will be available from August, boast a unique tortoiseshell pattern on their diver’s bezel inlays.



Introducing the Aquaracer 43mm Khaki Animation Special Edition watch with its combination of a sturdy khaki green fabric and sleek anthracite sunray brushed dial.



The trendy olive-green color can be found on watch’s aluminum unidirectional rotating bezel, for the WR text on its dial as well as its mil-style fabric strap with a steel pin buckle.



The quartz-powered Aquaracer Khaki comes with a 43mm Stainless steel case with a combination polished and fine-brushed finish.



The watch’s anthracite sunray brushed dial is with rhodium-plated hour, minute and seconds hands which have been coated with white SuperLumiNova while an angled date aperture can be found at 3 o’clock on the dial.



Finally like any Aquaracer, the case-back has been engraved with the image of a vintage divers’ helmet. Water-resistance is 300 meters.



Thoughts? True watch enthusiasts typically shy away from quartz models (myself included, to an extent); as compared to their mechanical counterparts, they are somewhat lacking in emotion.



However you really can’t beat their sheer convenience. I often find myself grabbing one of my quartz watches as tbh most of the time I can’t be f#@k*d setting up a mechanical watch.

I wish had a grab ‘n’ go as good-looking as this TAG. Would it be worth investing in a high-quality quartz diver such as this – what do you think?

http://www.tagheuer.com/int-en/home

TAG HEUER Aquaracer TORTOISE SHELL Effect CAL. 5 Auto in BLUE

TAG Heuer has released a trio of new Aquaracers for the summer. These include a KHAKI Quartz as well as a Cal. 5 powered duo with a unique tortoiseshell-effect diver’s bezel which will be available from next month (August).



Introducing the new Aquaracer 43mm Tortoiseshell-Effect Caliber 5 Automatic Blue, which is said to be inspired by the sunlight reflecting off the ocean waves!

TAG Heuer seems to have at least come up with something unique with its tortoiseshell effect which was created using an innovative resin technique.



The dark and light blue tones say TAG, are reminiscent of the ocean’s surface, as seen from the deck of a yacht, an effect which is enhanced by the blue sunray brushed dial with its horizontal lines.



The Aquaracer 43mm Tortoiseshell-Effect Special Edition watch is also available with a classic brown tortoiseshell pattern on the bezel and a black sunray brushed dial with horizontal stripes.



Said tortoiseshell effect unidirectional rotational bezels are with 60-min. dive-time scales while their Sapphire crystals are with dreaded (cyclops) angled magnifying lenses over the 3 o’clock date window.



The sunray brushed blue dial is with rhodium-plated applied indexes and hour, minute and seconds hands. These are coated with white SuperLumiNova for enhanced legibility in all lighting conditions.

Another first for the brand with these special-edition models is a high-quality rubber strap that features an alligator leather pattern and a steel folding clasp with double-safety push buttons.



The Caliber 5 automatic-powered Aquaracer comes with a 43mm Stainless steel case with a combination polished and fine-brushed finish.

Finally like any Aquaracer, the case-back has been engraved with the image of a vintage divers’ helmet. Water-resistance is 300 meters.



Thoughts? I don’t hate it in blue but I can’t say I like it either. Perhaps if this was some new technique using ceramic rather than resin, it would be a bit more interesting. What do you think?

http://www.tagheuer.com/int-en/home