OceanicTime Archives

2019-05-24

LeJOUR Seacolt GMT

LeJOUR have just released their latest collection; a lovely new GMT diver known as the Seacolt GMT which is offered in five attractive references.



As the name suggests, the Seacolt is first and foremost a diver’s watch so is equipped with all the necessary functionality for diving in addition to being a GMT.



All Seacolt references are equipped with lumed 24hr GMT bezels which can double as diver’s bezel thanks to a luminous triangular 12hr marker that can be used for the setting of dive-time in conjunction with a prominent minute hand.



Choose LJ-SC-01 with its matte black dial and classic black GMT bezel.

Choose LJ-SC-02 with its striking blue dial and matching blue GMT bezel. This version gets a unique orange seconds needle.



Choose LJ-SC-02 with its matte grey dial and matching grey GMT bezel.

Choose LJ-SC-04 with its black dial and ‘’Batman’’ bi-tone black and blue GMT bezel.



Choose LJ-SC-05 with its black dial and ’’Pepsi’’ bi-tone red and blue GMT bezel.



All dials are punctuated with a striking red arrow-head GMT pointer and a cool LeJOUR-style ‘’SEACOLT’’ logo at the 6 o’clock position which sits underneath a subtle GMT logo.



Except for the blue model, all watches a have striking cobalt blue seconds needle.



The hands and dial markers of all models are applied with vintage-style Old Radium-colored SuperLuminova which glows green.



Basic spec. includes a: 316L Stainless Steel case measuring 40mm in diameter which has been fitted with a domed Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on its interior.



The Seacolt diver collection is powered by a reliable, 25 jewel, ETA 2836 Swiss automatic movement which beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour at 4Hz. It comes with a date aperture at 3 o’clock.



Full diver’s features of the Seacolt include: Swiss SuperLuminova hands and markers, a lumed unidirectional rotational bezel, a screw-down crown signed with the ‘’LJ’’ logo, an engraved screw-down solid Stainless steel case-back and 300m of water-resistance.



The Seacolt GMT comes on a Stainless steel link bracelet with a combination brushed and polished finish. The bracelet is with solid end-links and diver’s deployment clasp with push-button release.



The new LeJOUR Seacolt GMT Diver has a list price of 980USD. You can order one HERE.



Thoughts? LeJOUR perfectly responds to the current trend for GMT sports watches with a great looking 5-strong collection.



The Seacolt not only offers diversity of style but also a classic design in a modest 40mm size which should appeal to fans of the genre.

My pick of the bunch has to be the blue – it’s a beauty, but the grey is also super nice. How bout’ you???

https://www.lejourwatches.ch/

2019-05-23

BLANCPAIN Fifty Fathoms BARAKUDA

When you think of those iconic, old school Blancpain diver’s watches – you think 1950s, right?

That’s when the FF was born but in this new model Blancpain take us on a journey back to the swinging 60s with an absolutely killer of a watch, a limited edition diver known as the Fifty Fathoms Barakuda.



The 500-piece 2019 edition retains all the design features of the OG version while making the most of Blancpain’s technical innovations, resulting from decades of experience in dive watches.

The watch is based on a model used by the German Bundesmarine in the 1960s, who were supplied with Fifty Fathoms models via Barakuda – a company specializing in the production of diving equipment.



Alongside the watches intended for the military, Barakuda introduced the German market to a civilian model adopting a distinctive style, notably featuring the use of two-tone rectangular hour-markers, white-painted fluorescent hands, as well as a highly visible date display at 3 o’clock.



Some of them were fitted with a tropical-type rubber strap that was very popular with divers at the time and particularly renowned for its durability as well as its wearer comfort. This is used in a modern form on today’s watch.

The new Fifty Fathoms Barakuda faithfully reinterprets the aesthetic codes of this timepiece from the late 1960s.



Its black dial is punctuated by large red and white hour-markers coated with old radium type SuperLumiNova.

The likewise luminescent pencil-shaped hands are white-lacquered, while the date – a key element of the original model – returns to its favorite position in a prominent window.



Blancpain has teamed these vintage attributes with its emblematic unidirectional bezel featuring a scratch-resistant domed sapphire insert, an innovation unveiled by the brand in 2003.

The satin-brushed Stainless steel case of this new watch, water-resistant to 300 meters, has a diameter of 40mm, a size reserved for Fifty Fathoms timepieces in limited series.



It houses the 1151 self-winding movement with twin barrels that are wound via a cut-out rotor, in reference to some of the collection’s antique watches.

Thoughts? I think Heart summed this watch up perfectly – ‘’ ooh barracuda!’’

BLANCPAIN Fifty Fathoms NAGEURS de COMBAT

After a classically-styled, super clean, Fifty Fathoms in Stainless steel that has some cool history behind it and some even cooler unique features such as a massive lucky 7 on the dial;

then look no further than this new member of the Fifty Fathoms family made in honor of the French Combat Swimmers.

With the new Fifty Fathoms Nageurs de Combat, Blancpain pay tribute to its OG collaboration with the founders of the French Combat Swimmers unit.



Inspired by this heritage, the Swiss Manufacture has unveiled what is imho their coolest Fifty Fathoms to date, a 300-piece Limited Edition proudly sporting the insignia of French commando frogmen.

The dive watch geeks among us, know all too well the story of behind the legendary Fifty Fathoms and its connection with the French Combat Swimmers, but in case you haven’t here’s a little background.

When Jean-Jacques Fiechter, took over the running of Blancpain in 1950, he began work on a reliable and robust timing instrument capable of accompanying him on his underwater adventures.



He drew upon his experiences as one of the early scuba divers to develop the basic specifications that would go on to create a watch dedicated to the needs of a scuba diver.

Luminescent hands and hour-markers designed to create maximum contrast against a black dial, a secured rotational bezel, a self-winding movement, true water-resistance, and an anti-magnetic case – the FF was born.

Meanwhile in 1952, Capt. Robert Maloubier AKA Bob Maloubier and Lt. Claude Riffaud, founders of the newly formed French Combat Swimmers unit, began their search to find a watch suited for their underwater missions.



They assembled a list of specific criteria for an instrument that would meet their requirements. The first tests which they conducted with so called water-resistant French watches were inconclusive.

These watches were far too small, the dials were hard to read, and the cases were far from waterproof.
They heard that the director of a Swiss watchmaking house was testing a new model of watch when diving in the south of France, so they decided to contact Jean-Jacques Fiechter.



In 1953, Blancpain was able to deliver to the French team a watch for testing that fully met their criteria. The watch performed brilliantly in all of the tests and it became one of the essential pieces of equipment for the French Combat Swimmers corps. Later, the same occurred for naval forces around the world. This unique timepiece was named Fifty Fathoms.



For 2019 Blancpain has paid tribute to its close collaboration with the founders of the French Combat Swimmers unit by unveiling a special edition of the Fifty Fathoms.

With the endorsement the French Army watch;s case-back was engraved with the Combat Diver Qualification Badge.

This features a central anchor, dedicated to sailors; this is flanked by two winged seahorses representing the underwater world as well as parachutists.



In addition to this the watch face has a discreetly displayed, second emblem – the number 7.

As oxygen becomes toxic when its partial pressure reaches 1.7 bar; the maximum depth that commando frogmen can reach when using pure oxygen is 7 meters.

The 45mm, 300m water-resistant Stainless steel case of the FF Nageurs de combat special edition watch is equipped with a Blancpian Manufacture Cal. 1315 self-winding movement.



Equipped with a date window, it notably features an Si hairspring serving as an anti-magnetic shield, while three series-coupled barrels provide a five-day power reserve.

The FF Nageurs de Combat watch’s hands and markers are covered with luminescent material, contrasting against its matte black dial.

Their geometrical shapes recalls the 1st gen. of 1950s Blancpain mil. diver’s watches. The hands are painted white, just as they are on the historical models.



In the same vintage spirit, the traditional triangular mark that appeared on the first Fifty Fathoms returns to its original potion at 12 o’clock.

Meanwhile, the black unidirectional rotational bezel highlights a luminescent dive-time scale protected by a curved Sapphire inlay.

Thoughts? This is hands down the FF to own; it ticks all the boxes and then some. What do you think???

BLANCPAIN Fifty Fathoms Automatic CERAMIC FACE

Here’s a new Fifty Fathoms model for 2019, that’s had a bit of a facelift! Well, it has been a good 66 years since the first FF appeared so is it any wonder that the cracks were starting to show ;)

This 2019 edition retains the all the sporty good-looks and diving prowess of its family members, but with an added touch of high-tech luxury thanks to a red gold case and a blue ceramic dial.



For this particular model, Blancpain has chosen to introduce a stylish version by opting for a precious case in satin-brushed red gold.

And, for the first time in the collection, the dial of this new Fifty Fathoms is attired in blue ceramic.

I guess in much the same as its corporate sibling, the Omega SM Divers 300M and new PO models which now also come with new ceramic faces.



The Fifty Fathoms of the past decade were known for their pioneering use of Sapphire crystals for their bezel inlays – however in this model crystal makes way for ceramic.

Already used by Blancpain in the creation of bezels for their Bathyscaphe models, technical ceramic offers several advantages.



It has a hardness that is six times greater than that of steel as well as possessing greater stability and longevity.

Although particularly complex to produce and machine, Blancpain chose ceramic owing to its achievement of ‘’chromatic depth’’ – indeed!




The new Fifty Fathoms Automatic boasts a cobalt-like shimmer featuring a striking contrast between the sunburst dial center and its matt chapter-ring.

The DNA of the collection remains recognizable at a glance: numerals, hour-markers and hands all coated with luminescent material, a slightly curved scratchproof sapphire crystal and a ratcheted unidirectional rotating bezel recall the origins of this watch.



The watch has a 45mm diameter case with a water-resistant to 300 meters. This is home to a Blancpain Cal. 1315 automatic movement with highly dense red gold oscillating weight ensuring 5-days of power-reserve.



The new Fifty Fathoms Automatic comes on a blue calfskin strap to match its new face and bezel.

Thoughts? It’s beautiful but a little too rich for my tastes. It makes me wonder what a Bronze variant might look like. What do you think?

2019-05-21

GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SeaQ PANORAMA DATE

This is the SeaQ Panorama Date, available with either a black or sunburst blue dial, it joins the SEAQ and SeaQ 1969 diver’s models which are GO’s first dedicate diver’s watches released in a very long time.

While the purists among us won’t usually appreciate a large date aperture on a divers face, it is nevertheless an important feature of the watch.



The characteristic big date is a typical feature of Glashütte Original. Giving this slightly larger version of the SeaQ its name, it has by all accounts been harmoniously positioned at 4 o’clock where it blends into the dial thanks to a color-coded window.

The dial which can be optioned in either black or blue with a sunray finish has the same style of hands, applied Arabic numerals and indexes as other SeaQ models. They come in either green on the black dial or white with blue dial.



The SeaQ Panorama Date, is a slightly more capable diver than its smaller family members with a water-resistance up to 30 bar, approximately 300 meters, so should better suit the professional diver.

Powering the SeaQ Panorama Date is the GO Manufacture Caliber 36. This means that not only does it meet the stringent DIN and ISO standards for diver’s watches, but that it has also undergone the same demanding 24-day test.



It comes with an individual certification document showing its successful completion of the test.

Glashütte’s watchmakers have adapted their award-winning Caliber 36 to better suit underwater timekeeping.



The 36-13 version beats within a 43.2mm Stainless steel case and is optimally configured, as always, with regard to GO’s four principles: precision, stability, running-time and aesthetics.

The bayonet mounting ensures that the movement is anchored in the case for particularly effective shock-resistance.



It features a remarkable 100-hours of autonomy while an Si balance spring enables reliably high-rate precision – above or below the waves.

Its water-resistance is enhanced by numerous details, such as a screw-down crown and a centrally screwed-down Sapphire crystal case-back which affords views of the highly decorated Cal. 36.



As a DIN and ISO tested diver’s watch it meets the most stringent German and international quality standards in terms of legibility, water, shock and corrosion resistance as well as many other criteria.

As certified diver’s watches, it features a unidirectional diver’s bezel with a ceramic inlay and 12hr lumed marker.



Large printed / applied hour markers and indexes are highlighted with SuperLumiNova, as are the hour, minute and second hands. They glow with a blue hue through an anti-reflective-treated Sapphire crystal.

The SeaQ Panorama Date is offered with three strap versions: a stable, flat Stainless steel bracelet with 8-step fine adjustment mechanism; a robust, water-resistant nylon mesh strap, and a distinctive rubber strap with embossed design.



Thoughts? In isolation this is a good looking diver; however it was released alongside a better looking watch that offered a little more heritage in terms of its style.

However the SeaQ Pan Date has more than a saving grace or two. Firstly it is imo better sized for the average man and for the diver it is a little more robust in its build. Besides this it also has a more advanced movement.What do you think?

https://www.glashuette-original.com/homepage

GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SeaQ & SeaQ 1969 SPEZIALIST

Glashütte Original has launched a brand new collection of three diver’s watches; strictly speaking there are only two models in the collection that is named ‘’Spezialist’’ –

but one them is offered in two variants, the SeaQ 1969 limited and SeaQ unlimited editions; the other (also unlimited in its production) is a sister model in the collection known as the SeaQ PANORAMA Date.


Timepieces from Glashütte Original are world renowned for their high-quality mechanics, elaborate finishes and timeless elegance; while their designs are impeccably tasteful, they have never been what you might call trendy or even sexy.



But this is exactly what you get with the new SeaQ and SeaQ 1969 models which could easily go head to head against the likes of the Black Bay or Divers Sixty-Five.

They possess equal amounts of retro appeal, and let’s face it they are likely vastly superior timepieces than the aforementioned.



Historically GO have produced marine chronometers and some diver’s watches the heritage of which the German watchmakers have drawn upon in this their fifth timepiece collection.

I first discovered GO almost a decade and a half ago when I began collecting divers and since then I have kind of been waiting for them to finally throw their hat into the mix; I must admit after such a long wait, I am not disappointed.



The flagship model of this new collection is the Limited Edition SeaQ 1969, which combines history and modernity, executed to perfection.

It was inspired by the historical Spezimatic Type RP TS 200, which was developed specifically for sport-divers, a good half a century ago.



The SeaQ 1969 references it with an historic inscription on its black dial indicting the number of jewels that its movement has.

On the historic model, “Rubies 26” was there as a sign of quality associated at the time with the Caliber 75 - while “Shockproof” referred to the robust construction of a diver’s watch.

The green hands and the Old Radium shade of beige on the Arabic numerals and indexes also derive from its vintage predecessors.



The SeaQ 1969 is available in a limited edition of ONLY 69 pieces; its limited edition number can be found on its engraved screw-down case-back.

The engravings on the case-back come in the form of a trident maritime symbol, the Glashütte Original Double-G and 20 waves that symbolize the SeaQ’s 20 bar of water-resistance.



The black dial of the unlimited version of the SeaQ presents Arabic numerals, indexes and hands accentuated with vintage Old Radium.

This version also features an engraved screw-down case-back which shows, along with the trident with the Double-G and the 20 waves, its continuous serial number.



The SeaQ 1969 and the SeaQ are both powered by the GO manufactory’s automatic movement Calibre 39-11 with a beautifully decorated heavy metal oscillating mass.

It beats in a Stainless steel case, measuring 39.5 millimeters in diameter, and features an autonomy of 40 hours, a stop-second mechanism and a date display at 3 o’clock.



The SeaQ 1969 comes with two alternative strap versions: one with a striking embossed rubber strap, the other with a water-resistant nylon mesh strap specially developed for the SeaQ models.

As DIN and ISO tested diver’s, the SeaQ and SeaQ 1969 are equipped with a unidirectional diver’s bezel. This has a ceramic inlay and SuperLumiNova coated triangle 12hr marker.



Meanwhile their printed / applied hour markers and indexes are highlighted with also Super-LumiNova, as are the hour, minute and second hands. They glow with a blue hue through an anti-reflective-treated Sapphire crystal.

The SeaQ and SeaQ Panorama Date are offered with three strap versions each: a stable, flat Stainless steel bracelet with an 8-step fine adjustment mechanism; a robust, water-resistant nylon mesh strap, and a distinctive rubber strap with embossed design.



Thoughts? Obviously the SeaQ 1969 would be the one, but most of us will have to make do with the regular SeaQ which is still very nice.

If 39mm is too small for you, the not quite as good-looking SeaQ Pan Date should fit the bill nicely. What do you think – pretty exciting news, eh!

https://www.glashuette-original.com/homepage