Dive Watch Releases / Articles

2015-07-01

TUDOR Heritage Black Bay ONE for ONLY WATCH 2015

By TLex TUDOR has reinterpreted one of their least known historical tool-watches for its first participation in the Only Watch charity auction. Launched in the mid-50s and produced in a very limited production, the Ref. 7923 is Tudor’s only diver to have been powered by a hand-wound movement. It is also conspicuous from the other Tudor divers owing to its rare baton-type handset. Highly sought after by collectors, this rare reference is a fantastic choice for the creation of a one of one edition.



The TUDOR Heritage Black Bay One created for Only Watch 2015 reinterprets the Ref. 7923 by firstly borrowing its glossy black dial from Tudor’s production in the late 50s and early 60s, while its gold text and gold-colored hands (reproduced here in a shade of yellow gold) have been taken directly from the Ref. 7923 itself.



The dial layout of the historical watch with its two lines of text at 6 o’clock has also been retained, specifying the watch’s 200m of water-resistance in red, along with the words – ‘shock resisting’ that were already present on the Ref. 7923. Whereas the luminescent material was formerly painted directly onto the dial, it has now been applied in gold-colored inserts.

Finally, the dial of the TUDOR Heritage Black Bay One has a gentle dome to it, a subtle yet important detail for the experienced eye and another nod to mid-20th century watch design.



The Sapphire crystal of the TUDOR Heritage Black Bay One is also domed in a particularly striking manner, and is the most pronounced to date in TUDOR’s Heritage line. This characteristic is typical of the type of acrylic crystals that were used by the watch industry in the 50s.

The visual effect of a dial and crystal in combination make for a stand-out feature of the watch giving a unique depth to the dial that is framed by a unidirectional rotational divers bezel, yet another directly inspired feature of the Ref. 7923, which does not have any minutes markers.



Compared with the 37mm case diameter of the Ref. 7923, the TUDOR Heritage Black Bay One measures a more substantial 41mm, and offers a more contemporary presence on the wrist.

The modern lines of its case nevertheless emulate the famous accentuated chamfers above the lugs, typical of 50s TUDOR divers while the prominent crown, with no protective guards is in keeping with the overall lines of the model that inspired it, is mounted on an anodized aluminum tube in the same color as the bezel inlay providing an additional touch of modernity and elegance.



The watch is fitted with a solid Stainless steel bracelet featuring tube-type attachments, a technical term used to describe a final link which does not come into contact with the case and an additional historical reference.

The Black Bay One also comes with two additional and unique straps: a dark brown aged leather strap, a Jacquard-weave admiralty grey fabric strap. Traditionally woven in a century-old craft company in the French region of Saint-Etienne, the historical cradle of the passementerie (trimmings) industry, this fabric strap is yet another example of the added value that TUDOR brings to its creations.



In keeping with Only Watch spirit, only ONE of this new model will be produced, a first for TUDOR, which as a rule produces neither limited editions nor one-off pieces. Bravo!

2015-06-30

TECHNOS Acqua 8000 Metros the BRAZILIAN BEAST

By TLex Soccer, Samba, bronzed babes in micro bikinis on Coco Cabana beach - I'm talking about Brazil. But did you know that the Brazilians were also responsible for making one of the deepest mechanical divers on the planet!

This is the 8000 meter water-resistant, Acqua 800 ATM from Technos, along with the H2O Kalmar II OceanicTime SE 8000M, it is one of only two (readily available) production deep divers with such a massive depth rating.



Wanna go deeper than that, and you're looking at north of 7000 euro for the Vintage-VDB DEEP SEA of which only 11 pieces are currently being made, 6 of which (SE versions) will cost you the best part of 12000euro (ouch!).

Meanwhile, a far more reasonable 2880BRL (its sale price), the equivalent of around 920USD will get you this 47mm x 28mm Titanium constructed, Brazilian Beast; so let's find out a little bit more about it. Actual MSRP is 3388BRL (1097USD).



If you aren't familiar with Technos, they are large producer of fashion watches with their production in China. Their Acqua range includes a really solid 3000 meter model that shares some of its basic deep diving attributes with the Delma Santiago BLUE SHARK as well as the CX 20,000ft.



To qualify the Acqua 800 ATM, as one of the only mechanical dive watches with the technology capable of reaching 8000 meters, the Acqua was subjected to the most rigorous and innovative strength tests with simulated water-pressure at 8,000 meters in a hyperbaric chamber, certified and approved by the Oceanographic Institute Ifremer, located in Brest, France.



After 3 years of research and development, the Acqua 800 ATM was developed with a specific ‘air-filled’ technology (meaning that it has been sealed to such an extent that it is completely airtight and retaining the same atmospheric pressure as the surface much like a deep sea submersible – resulting in a watch that is inherently tougher and more durable.



The crown mechanism of the Acqua 800 ATM is designed with triple seals, which precisely ensure the impermeability of the watch. It also has a threaded caseback with a special seal capable of withstanding a pressure of up to 10 tons!



Below 500 meters deep, the sun's rays are unable to penetrate the water, resulting in total darkness. The Acqua 800 ATM becomes readable even in low light areas thanks to luminescent hands and indicators that emit a green light, so I’m presuming it’s C3 SLN.



Powering the Acqua 800ATM is Japanese made Miyota mechanical self-winding movement. I couldn’t tell you if it’s an 8215 or 9015, though.



The bracelet is in Titanium, which is extremely suitable for withstanding and resisting the ocean depths – it is also corrosion-resistant – as well as being highly durable against the elements from the seabed. Moreover, it is 45% lighter than steel.

http://www.technosacqua.com.br/

2015-06-29

ANONIMO Nautilo [a step back in the right direction?]

By TLex The newly owned Anonimo have just released their first collection of divers models since taking over the Florentine brand in 2013.So what's the verdict?



Without seeing any side profiles, it is difficult to comment, but the new Anonimo Nautilo does appear to have a classic barrel shaped case - so far so good!



A contemporary feature, namely the structure protecting the crown at 4 o’clock, similar to the crown guard used by their earlier SAILOR model has been added to its right side.



I like the fact that the crown is positioned at 4 o’clock as was the case with many historic Anonimo models before the change over of ownership.



For diving or any kind of wearing for that matter, it is a considerably more comfortable set-up that reduces any unwanted interference with your wrist. 



The 44mm case can be had in either Stainless steel, Bronze, or there are two Bi-Color finishes that pair a Black DLC treatment with either Bronze or Stainless steel.



The Bronze models have Titanium casebacks, a smart move because Bronze can react with sweat causing your skin and the watch back to become green -



while Titanium which is hypoallergenic (meaning that it will not react with your skin), is super tough, light and comfortable. It also makes a nice contrast with the bronze.



There's a coin-edged bezel (they're it playing really safe here), a domed and anti-glare treated Sapphire crystal and a water-resistance of 200 meters.



I appreciate that I have a tendency to bang on about water-resistance; it isn't the be all and end all; -



however an additional 100 meters pushing it to 300m would have been a good illustration of the intentions to produce a ''proper'' divers watch. For me, 200m is a bit of a cop out!



They've played it fairly safely with the dial, too, which is no bad thing really cos, I love the cleanliness of it. They even have color-coded date windows. Dial colors include: black, blue or silver.



Finally the Nautilo comes with a high quality calf-skin strap or with a brand new designed Anonimo rubber strap that reminds me of a Patek Nautilaus strap.



So what do we think? A fair first effort or is it all a bit too plain and predictable? Pricing will no doubt play a huge factor in its appeal.  



If you're still pining after the original Anonimo, I highly recommend checking out the VISCONTI divers which were made by ex-Annomimo engineers.

Or those from DRASS Tecnologie Sottomarine.

http://www.anonimo.com/

2015-06-26

H2O Watches HYDRA

By TLex Taking its name from the ancient Greek mythical aquatic beast, the Hydra unlike its namesake is a thing of utter beauty. It is without a doubt H2O's most elegant and understated model to date; blending Mediterranean style with German design and engineering.



It offers not only an attractive divers style from the 40s, but the type of build quality (at an unmatched price-point) that we have come to expect from H2O along with the same level of personal configuration that have set H2O Watches apart from their contemporaries.



With an old school hand-wound UNITAS 6497 mechanical movement and rotational bezels with two different types of marking, the H2O Hydra is available in either Bronze, Grade 5 Titanium or Grade 5 Titanium with a black DLC coating.



Grade 5 Titanium is around 50% stronger compared to 316L Stainless steel and is highly saltwater and corrosion resistant. The copper bronze that H2O us will develop wonderful patina over time, while sleek DLC version adds as sense of modernity to what is essentially a vintage style.



The Hydra's sandwich dial is available with a sunburst brushed effect in either black or bronze. The dial and the chromed handset both use the same strong-glowing Swiss BGW9 SuperLumiNova. Protecting the dial is stunning vintage-style sapphire crystal.



The new H2O Hydra is available for pre-order as of, today (24.06.15) starting from 770 Euro. Following the link HERE to pre-order yours and to find out more about a special incentive that is being offered for full payment and returning customers . . .

H2O Orca MONO OceanicTime SE blastedTUNGUM





























© OceanicTime

BREMONT Oracle II

By TLex As the first official British timing partner of the America’s Cup since 1851, Bremont has launched a new collection, which includes 2 new models based on the Supermarine, the ORACLE I and -



Oracle II made in celebration of their new partnership with the America’s Cup Event Authority and ORACLE TEAM USA, which will see them become the Official Timing Partner of the 35th America’s Cup and ORACLE TEAM USA.



The second watch in the ORACLE TEAM USA Series is designed on the same principles as the Oracle I, using similar Supermarine case technology but with a second time zone enabling GMT functionality. The striking fine varnished matt black dial with applied index markers is finished off with ‘America’s Cup’ written above the ‘6’, and the beautifully engineered case back has the -



ORACLE TEAM USA branding has been etched into it. The Oracle II is built using a highly technical 500m water-resistant case, incorporating the Bremont anti-shock movement mount and anti-magnetic Faraday cage which encases the beautifully finished, chronometer tested, modified caliber 13 ¼” BE-92-2AE movement. Each case incorporates an automatic Helium Escape Valve.