OceanicTime Archives

2020-11-24

LINDE WERDELIN Oktopus BLUE SEA

Linde Werdelin pushes the limits of what is possible with lume with its torch-like new Oktopus Blue Sea, a debut collab’ with James Thompson of Black Badger.

In the broad light of day, the Oktopus Blue Sea is clean and monochromatic, with a subtle dial and facets set against its otherwise milky white Alloy Linde Werdelin (ALW) case. 

However once the sun has set, the Octopus Blue Sea comes into its own featuring three different colors of Badgerite lume.

Much like the ocean depths being viewed from above, these shades of blue become progressively darker the deeper down you dive into the watch (so to speak). Starting with aqua blue, then ultramarine blue, and finally a new violet lume have been used to create what is an undeniably visually stunning effect.

One of the things that is said to set the Oktopus Blue Sea apart is its use of next gen. luminous material as well its cutting edge application which puts lume from and center stage. 

For instance, some dial areas are surface coated, some are liquid-infilled engravings, and some even use a Lumicast method, where components are literally cast in solid SLN glowing material.

In a lume first, all three shades of blue have been specifically engineered to have a common daytime (non-glowing) color of Pantone Cool Grey #3. 

The effect is very uniform and subtle in the day, reflecting the clean, but once the lights are out, the Oktopus Blue Sea’s personality literally shines!

Its ALW case, made from an aerospace alloy is waterproof to a depth of 300 meters. It is said to be twice as hard as steel but is only half the weight of LW's Titanium cases. 

It is home to a high-end Double Date Dubois-Depraz mechanical movement.

Available as a Limited Edition of just 88 pieces and priced £12’000, the new Oktopus Blue Sea from Linde Werdelin comes with a range of interchangeable straps of varied colors and textures. 

Thoughts? Holy blue glowing octopi – that lume is something else! What do you think? 

LeJOUR Hammerhead [NEW] GREEN & RED

This fall, LeJOUR has couple of new additions that are sure to unleash the red devil in you, and the green eyed monster in everyone else! LeJOUR’ previously sold out, 1970s inspired retro diver, the HAMMERHEAD is back with two stunning new color editions:

an all green variant with a green sun-ray dial and matching green ceramic bezel inlay that replaces the sold out green dial / black bezel variant – 

as well as a brand new color-combo by way of an oxblood red that is the perfect color for this time of the year.

Key specifications for the Hammerhead are as follows: a 42mm 316L Stainless steel case with 200 meters of water-resistance and a Sellita SW200 Swiss automatic movement. MSRP is 800USD. Follow the link HERE or the one embedded, below for more on this and other models from LeJOUR.

Thoughts? These renders don’t even begin to do the watches justice; there are a couple of live pictures of the red version on LeJOUR’s Instagram page – pure fire!

 https://www.lejourwatches.ch/

2020-11-23

SEIKO Prospex SHOGUN

This is the new Shogun collection from Seiko Prospex, nicknamed so after the hereditary commander-in-chief AKA military dictators of feudal Japan which was between 1185 and 1868. 

The Shogun was initially released as JDM only model in 2008; however it is now available globally as part of Seiko's 2020 Prospex collection.

Its design echoes elements similar to the armor and helmet worn by a Shogun including triangular notches for the knurling of the diver’s bezel and pointed markers on the bezel itself. 

However, in contrast with its outwardly heavyweight appearance, it is in fact much more of lightweight as the Shogun has been constructed from Titanium.

Designed to have highly visible layout, the dial is boasts oversized hands and markers with generously applied Seiko Lumibrite. 

While the Shogun most closely resembles a Samurai its hour hand design has seems to have been borrowed from the Monster.

In addition to its [H51mm × W43.5mm × D13.3mm] Titanium case; further special features of the Shogun include: 

a hardened Seiko DiaShield case coating, an AR-treated Sapphire crystal, Titanium bezel in either two-tone (bronze/anthracite) or anthracite. 

Diver’s features include: a screw-down crown and case-back, a unidirectional rotating bezel, anti-magnetic and shock resistance, triple-fold clasp with security lock (bracelet), and 200m of water-resistance.

Powering the Shogun is 24 jewels, caliber 6R35 automatic movement with an impressive 70hrs of power-reserve and an accuracy of +25 to -15 seconds per day. 

Ref. SPB189J1 / SBDC129 JDM with bronze-colored bezel has an MSRP of 176,000 JPY (incl. tax) (160,000 JPY excl. tax) approx. 

1’700USD. Ref. SPB191J1 / SBDC131 with white dial and black rubber has an MSRP of 154,000 JPY (incl. tax) (140,000 JPY excl. tax) approx. 1’500USD. Both models will go on sale in December 2020. 

STOP WHALING in JAPAN

2020-11-20

BREITLING Superocean Heritage '57 OUTERKNOWN + RG LIMITED EDITION

I love the smell of ECONYL in the morning! Breitling continues its collaboration with 11 times World surfing champion, Kelly Slater and his sustainable surf-wear brand – OUTERKNOWN who has already created a lovely NATO strap collection exclusively for Breitling, made from repurposed nylon waste that was fished out of the sea, such as old fishing nets. The mini capsule collection is based on Breitling’s fashion diver / sports/surf watch, the Superocean Heritage ’57 which is available as two variants: the Superocean Heritage '57 Outerknown Stainless Steel - Bronze and the SO Heritage '57 Outerknown LE Stainless Steel & 18k Red Gold - Bronze. Actually neither of these watches have any bronze elements on them; the bronze merely refers to their dial color. Both watches are of course presented on said eco-friendly ECONYL straps which look suspiciously like they might have been inspired KS’s truck (pictured above). But more than anything these two watches are being touted as sustainable – well at least as far as their straps are concerned. Sustainability has become quite trendy particularly with Swiss brands that are looking do their part for ocean conversation all the while flogging us watches. Alpina, Baume & Mercier, Breitling, Carl F. Bucherer, Panerai, Ulysse Nardin are all following PET-textile trailblazer – Oris’s footsteps and are an ever growing army of brands that at least aspire to being seen as eco-friendly whether they really are remains to be seen but I appreciate the effort. Available in either Stainless steel or as an LE in Stainless steel and 18k Red Gold, the watch’s 42mm cases feature two signature elements of the OG SuperOcean: an old-school-style, concave bidirectional ceramic bezel and a dial featuring oversized indices. Water-resistance btw is limited to 100 meters. Both Superocean Heritage ’57 Outerknown models are powered by Breitling’s Caliber 10, a COSC-certified automatic chronometer. The Superocean Heritage '57 Outerknown Limited Edition of 500 pieces has a retail price in the US of 5,225USD excl. sales tax; while the Stainless steel variant is listed for 4,380USD excl. sales tax. Thoughts? These are two very appealing watches; I guess seeing as they aren’t exactly hardcore tool-watches they had to at the very least be good-looking which they certainly are.

I must admit I’m also a fan of these ECONYL straps – I might have to get a Khaki one for Avenger Seawolf (Breitling if you’re listening). What do you think – nice casual dress diver’s? 

2020-11-19

H2O Kalmar DEEP DIVER 25’000M

It looks like someone might have accidentally added one too many zeros to this watch’s stated water-resistance. Nope that’s not a typo, folks – this leviathan of the deep is a new model from water-resistance prodigy, H2O Watch of Germany.

Based on that little known diver made for OceanicTime, the 10 MILES, this is the new Kalmar Deep Diver. 

Yes, the name is a bit of a cliché, it is also a gross understatement as this watch has been tested and officially certified by a leading German institute to withstand a pressure of more than 2500bar AKA 25’000 meters.

Just to put that into perspective, the Challenger Deep, located at the southern end of the Mariana Trench, is the deepest spot in the ocean; it is 11’034 meters deep, so this watch has a depth rating of more than double that. Perhaps it might be better suited for a dive in (Jupiter’s largest moon) Europa's ocean which has an estimated depth of 40 to 100 miles (60 to 150 kilometers). Nevertheless this is serious overkill but when did that ever do anyone any harm. Now that you picked your jaw back up off of the floor, you’re probably wondering A.) why? and 2.) how is this even possible? For the answers to those important questions I kindly refer to my 10 MILES article.

You’re probably also assuming that any watch engineered with this level of water-resistance is most likely unwearable. 

You couldn’t be more wrong. The watch’ case is made from lightweight Titanium the dimensions of which include a diameter of 42.5mm and a case height of 22.85mm.

The Kalmar Deep Diver comes with a slew of special aesthetic and technical features such as its graduated Sunburst dial which fades from inky blue to black or is it black to blue. 

This is with beautiful 3D appliqué indexes along with H2O’s signature “merry go round” handset.

Btw the dial does absolutely nothing to shout about the watch’s monumental level of water-resistance however there is stark reminder laser-etched into the watch’s custom rubber diver’s strap which bears the “DEEP DIVER” name along with “25000M”. There is also a discreet lug engraving with ‘’25300M CERTIFIED’’ its officially certified depth rating. Housed inside the Kalmar Deep diver’s almost indestructible solid Titanium Grade 5 case is a Swiss made mechanical automatic movement, the Selitta SW300 with a beat-rate of 28.800 vibrations per hour; 4 Hz. For full list of technical specifications and pricing, please follow the link HERE or the one embedded, below to be taken to H2O Watch’s online store where the Kalmar Deep Diver is currently ON SALE as part of H2O’s Black Friday SALE for 990€ .

Thoughts? This is a far more practical and functional version of the TEN MILES thanks to its minute track and of course the proper diver’s bezel complete with dive-time scale. 

Even without its absurd (let’s not be coy) depth-rating, it is such a lovely tool diver – top marks all round!

2020-11-18

MÜHLE GLASHÜTTE S.A.R. Rescue-Timer SK HAMBURG

This stealthy, blacked-out new variant of the famous S.A.R. from Mühle-Glashütte was made in collaboration with the renowned, Hamburg-based family jewelry company, Wempe. 

Named the S.A.R. Rescue-Timer SK Hamburg, the watch was made in support of the German Sea Rescue, which is Germany’s coastal rescue service who – 

 are quite similar to the UK’s Royal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI) who I imagine would also make good use of their own badass watch – I digress.

The Special Edition, which is limited to 150 pieces, also marks the construction of a new vessel, the sea rescue cruiser Hamburg, whose name "SK Hamburg” is proudly printed on its dial in red letters. 

In addition to the above, the Special Edition S.A.R. Rescue-Timer SK Hamburg boasts one or two other unique features that further distinguish it from the original S.A.R. (which btw is an incredible watch in itself).

Its dial is in matte black with its hands and indices both of which have been coated in black SuperLumiNova while its case is in Stainless steel (measuring Ø 42mm x H13.5mm) has been given a tough matte black PVD-coating. Historically the S.A.R. Rescue-Timer was designed with its crown at 4 o'clock, which has been rounded off for safety reasons – namely so that no sailor could be injured when rescuing someone from the water or the lifeboat.

The case which is water-resistant to an impressive 100bar AKA 1000m has been fitted with: a PVD-coated Stainless steel back, a screw-in crown, a 4mm thick Sapphire crystal and a black rubber bezel which helps to make it particularly robust. 

The watch comes on a black rubber strap with: a PVD-coated, Stainless steel folding safety-clasp and wet or dry suit extension. The strap is attached to the lugs via screws.

Powering the watch is an SW 200-1 Mühle Version, automatic movement which features Mühle’s woodpecker neck regulation, custom rotor, characteristic surface finishes, stop-second, fast date correction and power-reserve of 38-hrs.  

The new Mühle S.A.R. Rescue-Timer "SK Hamburg" watch available exclusively from branches of Juwelier WEMPE where it is listed for 1’990€ which includes a donation of 100€ for the Sea Rescuers for each watch sold. 

Liked this? Check out Mühle’ Sea-Timer BLACKMOTION.