U-BOAT U-1942 LE

By TLex This one really speaks to me. There's no doubt about U-BOAT's Italian roots, it's quite reminiscent of a Panerai or Ennebi diver, but still has its own distinct and unique U-BOAT flavor. Damn shame it'll be limited to a mere 29 pieces.

Specs include a gargantuan 64.4mm blackened Grade5 titanium case, 400 meters water-resistance and a manually wound movement by means of its retractable winding arm. It has 46hrs power reserve. A hand made brown Cordovan leather strap with Ti buckle completes the look. Wow, Italian styling at its best, I'm smitten!



From U-BOAT Lucca, 1942 - Ilvo Fontana, crafter of precision engineering instruments, received a prestigious commission from the Italian Navy to design and build a new model of watch for their pilots. This challenge meant satisfying the high quality standards of the Navy and respecting very precise technical specifications, but above all guaranteeing maximum visibility and legibility in any light and weather condition. The project did not materialized for political reasons.

In 2000 Italo Fontana, Ilvo Fontana's grandson, came across the designs from that period, which were to become his source of inspiration for the creation of the first U-Boat watch and a new dimension in time.

U-Boat watches are all this: strong identity, large size, perfect legibility in all light and weather conditions, along with its distinctive and characteristic design - the left-hand crown protected by a specially designed safety cover. Every U-Boat watch is handcrafted in Italy and each tiny detail is overseen by Italo Fontana.





CASE 64.4mm Grade5 titanium / 64.4mm (without crown) 69.5mm (with crown), thickness of 18.5mm, lockable rotating bezel, 7,2mm thick PMMA crystal, back of case secured by six encapsulated hex nuts and engraved with watch number and other information

DIAL Brass dial with painted, highly luminescent hour markers, German silver luminous hands, numbered plaque at Six, and small seconds at three o'clock

MOVEMENT Swiss auto with 18,800 vph rate, 17 rubies, power reserve 46hrs

STRAP Brown shell-cordovan band hand-crafted in Italy with width of 26mm and extra-large Ti buckle.


© U-BOAT

U-BOAT U-42 Chrono 53mm & 47mm

By TLex The U-BOAT U-1942 and the U-42 were, say U-BOAT based on a watch developed by Italo Fontana's grandfather for the Italian Navy, although for my knowledge no one has ever seen this watch; I wonder if a prototype was ever made and if so, why we haven't seen it? I digress! At Baselworld 2010 U-BOAT unveiled the U-42, which was in fact based on a scaled down 53mm version of the U-1942 itself with a monstrous 63mm case size (excluding its periscopic crown mechanism).



One year on and U-BOAT introduce a new chronograph version of the watch with the same 53mm case with an accompanying 47mm version that U-BOAT say they made with their female customers in mind. Both version of the U-42 Chrono are fitted with Valjoux 7750 calibers, are available with black dials and in limited editions of 999 pieces of each size.






MOVEMENT Automatic mechanical chronograph modified and personalized at U-BOAT specifications for date display and stem position at 9 o’clock. Frequency 28.800 vibrations per hour; 4 Hz. Power reserve 44 hours. 25 Jewels. Height 7mm.

FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, chronograph, counter small seconds at 3, counter 12 at 12, counter minutes at 6. Date window at 9 o’clock.

CASE Back case fixed on case with 6 encapsulated hexagon screws. Watertight on axis reset and assured charge by PTFE gasket. Bi-directional rotating bezel lockable with a lever on the right side of the case. Fixing of revolving bezel by 3 screws encapsulated in the back case; the bezel removal, for maintenance and washing obtained by removing the three screws, does not affect the watch watertight.

STRAP Brown leather handcrafted, width 23/23, and fitted with a titanium tongue buckle. For the 53mm version, strap with plate in titanium with tag for personalization.

U-BOAT DOPPIOTEMPO 46 Bronzo BR & GR

This is the new U-BOAT Doppiotempo Bronzo BR Ref. 9008 / GR Ref. 9088, the latest creation by Italo Fontana, with a 46mm bronze case and a bi-directional rotating bezel, it features an additional hand allowing you to gauge the time in two different time zones.



The case of the Doppiotempo has been made of naturally aged bronze (so no forced patina). It has a water-resistance of 100 meters and is fitted with U-BOAT’s patented protective device, a crown release system on its left side at 8 o’clock AKA canteen-style crown cover.



Over on the other side of the case is a bezel locking lever plus a serial number engraved on a small plate that is fixed on the case just above it. It is also equipped with a Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment.



The watch face is made up of three superimposed brown or green dials with a visible ruby poking cheekily through at 6 o'clock. It features Arabic numerals, with a bronzed brushed frame and SLN treatment and hand-brushed bronzed hands, also with SLN.



Power comes from a 25 jewel, automatic mechanical movement, personalized to U-BOAT specifications so that the stem could be positioned at 9 o’clock. It has a laser cut rotor as per U-BOAT specifications, a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz and a power-reserve of 38 hours.



The case-back is kinda’ cool – it is sealed with 7 external screws and has a small U-shaped window with fumé (smoked) Sapphire crystal showing the balance wheel movement.



Finally, the new U-BOAT Doppiotempo Bronzo comes on a handmade, hand finished 22mm calf leather strap in brown or green with tongue buckle in bronze – priced 3300euro.

BTW Ref. BR is currently SOLD OUT.



Am I being dyslexia again or did anyone else see the word, disappointment on first glance? For reference, I believe doppio tempo translates as double time from Italian.



So what do you think? Is this something you’d buy? How about U-BOAT’s image – would you consider them a fashion brand still? And what about canteen crown covers – love ‘em or hate ‘em?

U-BOAT Sommerso 300M

Here’s a new dedicated divers watch from U-BOAT, who are best known (at least here) for their U-1942 and U-42 models which were actually pretty interesting watches despite their exaggerated dimensions.

U-BOAT as a brand though, have never really managed to escape their fashion-watch roots and have struggled to be taken seriously, at least in the collectors market which caters for a more discerning pallet.



So can the new Sommerso change that or does it miss the mark – you be the judge. Starting with the case which has a modest (for a U-BOAT) 45mm diameter and is made from AISI 316L Stainless steel with a satin finish.

It features a rotating bezel with calibrated markers every five minutes interspersed with numbers every ten minutes from 10 to 50. On its left side is a distinguishing crown with a patented protective device.



On the right side of the case is a lever, which can be used to lock the bezel, so presumably it is a bi-directional bezel. The watch watch’s serial number plate is also fixed on the side of the case. The caseback is sealed with seven external screws.



Powering the Sommerso is an automatic mechanical 25 jewel movement with 28,800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz and a power reserve of up to 38 hours. The movement has been personalized to U-BOAT’s specifications so that the stem is positioned at 9 o’clock – destro-style.



A Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating and a lens on the date window protects the watch face which is composed of three superimposed dials, the upper one in black with luminous beige hands and markers plus an additional counter for the 24 hours of the day.



The Sommerso has a water-resistance to 300 meters and comes on a black strap in rubber with a lining in water repellent calfskin thanks to its Kodiak (nemo fans will know this) treatment.



So what do you think? For me it’s a miss, I’m afraid. The U-BOAT brand lacks the cachet that other brand playing at the same price point have and personally I just don’t like really dig the style.

U-BOAT U-1942 2ndLook

U-1942 The BIGGEST Watch in the World Ø65 mm.



LUCCA 1942 Ilvo Fontana, crafter of precision engineering instruments, received a prestigious commission from the Italian Navy: to design and build a new model of watch for their pilots. This challenge meant satisfying the high quality standards of the Navy and respecting very precise technical specifications, but above all guaranteeing maximum visibility and reliability in any light or weather condition. However circumstance at that time did not allow the project to materialize.



In 2000 Italo Fontana, Ilvo's grandson, discovered these precious designs, which were to become his source of inspiration for the creation of the first U-Boat watch and, his new dimension in time. U-Boat watches are characterized by their strong identity, large size, and perfect legibility in all light and weather conditions, along with its bold and distinctive design: the left crown protected by a specially designed safety cover.



LIMITED EDITION 29 UNITS This astonishing and exceptionally rare 65mm piece was designed with a reinvented hand-winder made from the same Grade-5 Titanium that was used for the back case, body case and bezel. The U-1942's winding crown was built in two parts: one is attached to the movement stem whilst the other is hinged to it with a pivot.

This gives a flexible-joint configuration which allows the crown to protrude considerably from the watch itself for winding and setting, yet returning it to a protected, hidden position - diminishing the side clutter when in action. This type of crown is imperative under certain conditions as it is absolutely necessary for activities during which gloves are required such as underwater operations and environmental practice at Arctic temperatures.

The water-tight crown protection attached to the stem is assured by a clipping gasket in energized Polytetrafluoroethylene and by an O-RING twin-arrangement. This allows water-resistance to 400m.



All engravings on the watch are carried out with mechanical pantograph. Every single U-Boat timepiece is individually handcrafted in Italy by master craftsmen, dedicated to the highest level of precision engineering and finishing, where care and attention to detail span the entire process.



Strong identity, boundless use of the best materials. U-Boat straps are hand-stitched with the best and most defined calf-leather emboldening our collection with luxury and rare beauty. All straps are hand-made and hand-finished by Tuscan master artisans. This is where Made in Italy means something grand.

U-BOAT U-42 ''B and B''

By TLex Introducing the new U-BOAT U-42 ''B and B''. No, that's not bed and breakfast! The new U-42 ''B and B'' automatic is named so for its lovely combination of solid Bronze and Black IP treated Titanium.

This is U-BOAT's first bronze offering, although the watch's mid-case, bezel and caseback are in fact made of Titanium as are all U-42 models. Bronze has been used for the bezel studs (12 o'clock pip in ceramic), the crown winding mechanism, the LE# plate and the tongue of the buckle, which already has some patina . . .

WATER-resistance 300 meters.

MOVEMENT Automatic mechanical modified and personalized at U-BOAT specifications with stem position at 9 o’clock. Frequency 28.800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz. Power reserve 40 hours.

25 jewels. Height 4,60 mm

FUNCTIONS hours, minutes, seconds.

CASE Back case fixed on case with 6 encapsulated hexagon screws. Bidirectional rotating bezel lockable with a lever on the right side of the case.12 o’clock ball indicator/pointer on the bezel made of ceramic. Crown, pin of the hook, screws on the bezel, bezel release lever, limited serial numbering case plate in bronze.

* Case, back case, bezel in titanium, with subsequent treatment of IP Black coating.

* Sapphire glass.

* Double superimposed dial, one in brass bronze colored and one in black.

* Bronze colored hands.

* Diameter 53 mm.

STRAP hand made and hand finished calf dark brown leather, tongue titanium buckle, tongue of the buckle in bronze. Width 23/23 mm, fasten to the case with screws. All engravings on this piece are carried out by mechanical pantograph.

Limited Edition 300 units

U-BOAT Classico U-1001 9MM

By TLex It was presented at Baselworld 2012. It is an evolution of the U-1001. It is the new U-BOAT Classico 47 1001 IPB 9MM, a dive watch that commands attention with its imposing 9mm thick Sapphire crystal that proudly towers up from its case like a monolith.

Why? I hear you ask; well maybe sometimes it's just better to admire than to question why. But seeing as you asked, there is no obvious answer other than what appears to be Italo Fontana's celebration of the Sapphire crystal itself, albeit in its most extreme form.

The crystal is one of the most important components that a modern day divers watch is comprised of as far as water-resistance is concerned, but also an equally important aesthetic feature. Thicker crystals allow for increased water-resistance, they bear the brunt of the forces that are exerted by the ocean's depths. They can be cut and shaped in such away as to increase their effectiveness when resisting enormous pressures, which invariably increases their attractiveness and appeal.

The CX 20'000 Feet has a 10mm thick domed Sapphire crystal that enables it to achieve its water-resistance of 6000m. Its crystal isn't as prominent looking because it has a thick rotating divers bezel that wraps around it. The new Rolex Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA Challenge has a 14.3mm thick Sapphire crystal that allows for a staggering 12000 meters of water-resistance. Its crystal clearly juts up from its case yet it too is nowhere near as extreme looking as the 1001's 9mm crystal.

The 1001 9MM is a bit of an enigma. It retains a fairly conservative water-resistance of 1001 meters as do all U-1001 models (in fact it was tested to more that 1200m, how much more I am not sure). Yet it has this incredible feature that defies reason. Is it cool or is it a crazy caricature? I really couldn't tell you. But I can't help but admire any watch designer audacious enough to make such a feature of the crystal. What do you think?

MOVEMENT Automatic mechanical, modified and personalized to U-BOAT specifications for stem position at 9 o'clock. Height 4,60mm, jewels 25. Power reserve 40 hours.

FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, seconds, date at 4 o’clock. Frequency 28.800vibrations per hour, 4 Hz.

CASE Steel with subsequent IPB coating. Distinguishing crown on left side, with a special protective device and helium escape valve, serial number engraved on a steel plate, set on the left hand side of the case. Diameter 47 mm.

CASEBACK screwed in, serial numbering engraved in bas-relief. Personalized U-BOAT Rotor “skeleton.

DIAL The dial of this model is made up of two superimposed dials: one in carbon fiber and the other one cut, treated with composed opaque black pigments. U-1001caligraphy in high relief and raised.. Black hands.

CRYSTAL High quality Sapphire crystal, scratchproof, 9mm thick.

WATER-Resistance 1001 meters - 100 ATM.

STRAP Black, rubber (hypoallergenic) with plate in steel and subsequent IPB coating. Deployante buckle, width 23/22 mm. Fastened to the case with screws.

MSRP 5'900USD Limited Edition of 300 units

U-BOAT U-42 GMT

By TLex The new U-42 GMT from U-BOAT features a 3 triple time-zone function. Its case, which is constructed from Titanium measures 53mm in diameter, a typical size for U-42 models. This is the first time U-BOAT have put a GMT caliber in a U-42 model. The line is based on a prototype watch that dates back to 1942, when Italo Fontana's grandfather was said to have designed a prototype watch for the Italian Navy . . .

WATER-resistance and press-resistance 300 meters.

MOVEMENT Automatic mechanical modified and personalized to U-BOAT specifications for date display and stem position at 9 o’clock. Power reserve 48 hours.

FUNCTIONS Display by means of hands, Hours, minutes, seconds. 24 hour hand with time–zones mechanism. Date display in window.

STRAP Brown leather handcrafted, width 23/23, and fitted with a titanium tongue buckle. Strap with plate in titanium with tag for personalization. Limited edition 300 units.

U-BOAT Classico 1001 Diver

Italo Fontana has masterfully reinvented the U-Boat Classico with 1001 meters of 55mm Grade2 natural titanium Italian goodness. The U-1001 Diver features a hinged screw down crown and hinged HEV (8 o'clock), a black sandwich ( multilayered) dial with recessed numerals and index markers in stunning photo-luminescent blue or red.

It comes on a specialized U-Boat black rubber divers strap with titanium engraved plate and deployment buckle. The U-1001 houses a U-Boat automatic caliber with engraved rotor and comes presented in a fantastic aluminum presentation box complete with deep-sea critter, which can also be seen on engraved on the U-1001's case back.