By TLex Possibly one the coolest homage watches in existence, completely handcrafted in Germany, it not only respects the design it takes its inspiration from (remaining as true the original form as possible), but is an incredible watch in its own right.
The Germano & Walter 500m pays homage to the Rolex Deep Sea Special; a prototype dive watch that was designed and developed by Rolex in the late fifties and was later (in Jan 1960) ocean tested in the Marianas Trench to a depth or 11'000 meters, a record that to this day is yet to be beaten by any other mechanical wristwatch.
Rolex Deep Sea Special
The Deep Sea Special never actually went into production, but for its extraordinary capabilities and even more extraordinary design was one of those holier than holy dive watch grails that collectors and aficionados dreamt of owning. The Germano & Walter 500m is as close as anyone will ever come to owning the real thing, but besides this (unlike Deep Sea Special) it is actually a very wearable watch. . .
From G&W We wanted a watch that is extremely resistant to all impacts and fully submersible. Of course all parts have to be screwed in order to guarantee long durability and maintainability. Thanks to our idea to use a separate inner case, the domed crystal with frame is held by the case on both sides.
That way it is not only protected against overpressure, but also against malfunction due to pressure in the case. Another advantage of this concept is that the movement is surrounded by a ferromagnetic cage (consisting of the inner case, inner movement cover and dial) and is therefore protected against strong magnetic fields.
Together we made several sketches until in 2005 we came up with the first sketch of the “Germano & Walter 500 m“. Alexander Walter made professional drawings from that sketch. I then began to build the first prototype, which was completed in November 2005. Since then the watch has been handcrafted in small batches in Munich.
SPECIAL FEATURES Handmade in a limited series - Extremely robust, highly anti-magnetic, water-proof up to 500m. Sandwich case (stainless steel), made of several massive parts, all components turned and milled by precision mechanics (Achim Borlinghaus & Josef Fastl) in Munich, Germany
Inner case: ferromagnetic material, largely rust-proof - Inner movement cover: ferromagnetic material, largely rust-proof - Outer case with stud screw for centering the inner case - Bezel screwed with inner case - Tube screwed into outer case -Screwed caseback - Screw-down crown - Strap attachment: 2 screwed studs for easy change from stainless-steel-bracelet to leather strap
Acrylic crystal, custom product, thickness approx. 4mm, screwed between bezel and inner case ETA automatic movement, cal. 2892A, finish: solar finish and Geneva stripes Gold or chrome-plated hands with luminous phosphor (not radioactive) (hour, minute, second) -Dial - soft iron, printed with luminous phosphor (not radioactive)
DIMENSIONS & WEIGHT
From lug to lug: approx. 57mm
Width without crown: approx. 42mm
Diameter of the crown: approx. 9mm
Length of the crown: approx. 5mm
Total height with crystal: approx. 18.20mm
Band lug width: 20mm
Diameter of the dial: 30.5mm
Weight incl. steel bracelet: 170g
PRICE 2.600 Euro - 2 years warranty The watch comes with; a smooth or an engraved bezel, a stainless steel bracelet (massive, adjustable length for divers), leather strap with a stainless-steel buckle, screwdriver, certificate of authenticity and a leather case.
Every watch is engraved with a serial and a reference number together with the year of its production. The watch case is protected by a utility model. 
A record-breaking weekend at Zoagli - Champion freediver Gianluca Genoni descends to a depth of 152 metres . . .
From BLANCPAIN Gianluca Genoni, who holds over 15 freediving records, has once again pushed back the borders of what is deemed humanly possible. At Zoagli, near Portofino, Italy, he plunged to a depth of 152 metres in freediving mode, thus setting a new world record in this discipline. Blancpain, which has been associated with the Italian freediver since 2007, is proud of this exceptional performance and warmly congratulates Gianluca Genoni on his exceptional feat.
This freedive not only served to display Gianluca Genoni's impressive physical and technical abilities, but also to test the performances of new equipment in deep waters. In his descent, the Italian diver used the world’s fastest underwater scooter capable of propelling him towards the depths at a speed of over 100 metres per minute.
He was also equipped with an inflatable life-jacket prototype developed by the Mares firm and capable of bringing the diver back to the surface immediately if any problem occurs. Gianluca Genoni's performance was also closely studied by researchers from the Divers Alert Network in order to improve the security of this type of dive.
In accomplishing this feat, the Italian athlete could rely on his Blancpain 500 Fathoms, the“big sister” of the Fifty Fathoms. The 500 Fathoms is a high-performance ultra-technical diver’s watch with an uncompromisingly sporty design. Water-resistant to 100 bar (1,000 metres), it is fitted with a helium decompression valve – an indispensable feature when diving in a closed environment. This virile model is distinguished by a 48 mm-diameter brushed titanium case housing self-winding Calibre 1315, a movement specially designed to equip Blancpain's sports watches.The performances and the reliability of the 500 Fathoms firmly assert Blancpain's undeniable expertise in the demanding world of diver’s watches, a reputation steadily established since the 1953 launch of the Fifty Fathoms.
From UN Ulysse Nardin honors its nautical history and the ocean’s majestic creatures with the new Hammerhead Shark Limited-Edition. As the hammerhead shark has navigated the oceans with unrivaled precision for centuries, Ulysse Nardin’s marine chronometers have steered sailors faultlessly to port. Once again, the famed watchmaker pays homage to its seafaring past and the ocean’s magnificent beings with the latest addition to its coveted Marine Collection – the Hammerhead Shark.
Sporty, rugged and water-resistant to 200 meters, this exceptional timepiece features a 45-millimeter, skin-friendly, high-grade polished titanium case (individually numbered). Engravings of the mysterious hammerhead shark decorate the case, with the pattern of its one-of-a-kind form continuing delicately onto an eye-catching blue dial that supports applied luminous indexes. Shielding the dial is a sapphire crystal cover encircled by a unidirectional, rotating bezel in either 18-karat rose-gold or stainless steel.
Complementing both the dial and the blue-structured bezel is a specially created blue rubber strap with rose-gold or titanium elements. Its self-winding movement, visible through the exhibition case back, features a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock and an oversized small-seconds register and round date window at 6 o’clock, keeping its wearer on steady course.
Since the master watchmaker Ulysse Nardin opened his doors for business in Le Locle in 1846, marine chronometers have been one of the brand’s specialties. Today, despite satellites overtaking navigation, watch collectors and those passionate for sailing the seven seas look to the Ulysse Nardin brand for its award-winning marine chronometers.
For 2010, Ulysse Nardin is pleased to introduce the Hammerhead Shark to its Marine collection. The timepiece is offered as a limited edition of 350 pieces in 18-karat gold and titanium and 999 pieces in titanium and steel.
Movement Caliber UN-26
Power reserve Approximately 42 h
Winding Self-winding
Functions Power reserve indicator at 12 o'clock. Small
seconds and round date window at 6 o'clock.
Case Titanium
Bezel 18ct rose gold or stainless steel
Crown Screw down security crown
Diameter 45mm
Water-resistance 200m
Crystal Anti reflective sapphire crystal
Case-back Open case back with sapphire crystal
Bracelet Exclusive rubber strap with 18 ct gold or titanium elements
BACKGROUND Located in the small Swiss town of Grenchen, Eterna, which today is owned by Ferdinand Alexander Porsche, is one of the last remaining independent manufacturers. They have a rich watch making heritage that includes watches like the legendary Super KonTiki.Named little over a hundred years after Eterna was first established (in 1856), the KonTiki takes its name from the celebrated balsawood raft, which in 1947 sailed across the Pacific Ocean from Peru to Polynesia; no mean feat.
Thankfully Thor Heyerdahl and his intrepid crew were equipped with the sturdiest and most reliable wristwatches that were available to them, these happened to be of Eterna design.The watch was thus named in 1958 after their raft; and its design, which although has been periodically subject to a little restyling and an update or two eventually evolved into the watch we see today (the ETERNA Heritage Super KonTiki Limited Edition 1973), an almost exact recreation (size aside) of the 1973 Super KonTiki that was adopted by the IDF (Israeli Defense Force) for their divers. It is this design classic that Eterna have recreated.
AESTHETIC Simple, clean, smart and elegant; not quite a tool watch, not quite a dress watch, either, but somewhere in between. Its vintage styling very much in vogue, but in this case this is the real thing rather than an inspired aesthetic.Pretty much every surface and facet of the watch has been finished with a high polish, yet the KonTiki remains subtle, not too showy and in no way could it be accused of being blingy, quite the contrary, it’s the kind of watch that your boss would approve of.
DIAL As with every design element of the KonTiki; Eterna have remained true to the original form. A black dial, with raised luminescent applied hour markers, a 3 o’clock date wheel (in white) and one the coolest and most distinctive handsets there are. Typically seventies in their design, but most importantly instantly recognizable from each other are the over sized minute hand and dwarfed hour hand. The only real differences with them are increased overall size and width, allowing for more lume; a good thing!
CASE The KonTiki has 44mm stainless steel barrel shaped case that has been highly polished. The case measures 13.7mm thick.BEZEL The KonTiki has a round polished 120 click rotating divers bezel with a black aluminum insert marked out with alternating Arabic numerals and markers to measure elapsed dive time; its 12 o’clock pip in yellow enamel (so cool). Easily manipulated owning to its chunky grip, the bezel clicks beautifully round the dial.CASEBACK The caseback features a lovely engraving of a KonTiki medallion. This beautiful deep etched engraving depicts the KonTiki raft on its voyage across the Pacific. Apart from this engraving and a second ‘ETERNA’ engraving, the caseback has been polished. There’re also some light engravings of its limited # of 1973 pieces and the usual; water-resistance (200m) and Swiss Made etc.CROWN The KonTiki has a simple unsigned screw-down crown. The crown stem is nice and sturdy, no play no wobble. In my opinion it would have looked nicer signed with the Eterna 5 spheres logo, but in all fairness the original’s crown was also unsigned; I’m probably a heathen for suggesting it, but I love details.GLASS Scratch-resistant, anti-reflective coated flat sapphire crystal.BUILD QUALITY The overall build quality and craftsmanship of the watch is excellent. Each and every detail has been flawlessly executed; as one would expect from any high quality Swiss dive watch.
WATER-RESISTANCE The Super KonTiki is water-resistant to 200 meters (approx. 655 feet or 20 bars). 200m is the minimum requirement for a divers watch according ISO norms. Another 100 meters or so would have been preferable allowing for a slightly larger safety margin.MOVEMENT A self-winding mechanical movement providing 38 hours power reserve; C.O.S.C certified with a decorated rotor.BRACELET A polished stainless steel bracelet made from flexible mesh with diver’s extension and brushed steel safety clasp. The style of mesh used for the KonTiki far surpasses every experience I’ve had to date with mesh bracelets. This is one of, if not the lightest and most comfortable mesh bracelets I’ve worn; if like me you aren’t typically a mesh man; you’ll soon be singing a different tune after wearing this one. Super comfortable!The clasp is also ultra light, it locks by means of seat-belt type buckle, which closes and is then secured by a strong spring hinged lock. The clasp is the only part of the watch that has a brushed finish; a smart move considering how easily light scratches and swirls are picked up on clasps. The steel has then been stamped and pressed with the Eterna logo.DIVERS EXTENSION The Super KonTiki comes supplied with an additional length of mesh bracelet and clasp to accommodate a divers wet suit. Not just a cool accessory, but a very useful item for those that will actually take it diving! Simply attach it to the open end of the clasp and voila, you're good to go!
FUNCTIONALITY Time, date, 120 click rotatable divers bezel with elapsed dive time scale, water-resistant to 200meters, luminescent applied hands and markers.WEAR-ABILITY Considering its size and it being on a stainless steel bracelet, this is an extremely comfortable watch to wear; much is owed to its lightweight mesh bracelet and clasp.DURABILITY Highly polished surfaces although pretty are prone to light scratches, this is the only real drawback (design-wise) of this watch. Eterna had no real choice considering the very direct route that they took with its recreation. The original models were also polished. The watch has a screw down case back and crown.Unlike its ancestor this watch was made with intention of being enjoyed as a collectors item rather than a military diver; not that it wouldn't be up for the job; I'm sure it would hold up beautifully in the water. But I’d still have the up most admiration for anybody who would take it diving, then again why wouldn’t you? ;)LUME I would rate the Super KonTiki’s lume at good. Only the hands and markers have been coated with luminescent compound, there is no lume on the bezel pip either.
VALUE CHF 2,950 € 2,175 a reasonable price a watch of its caliber and pedigree. It's also a limited edition of 1973 units.ALSO CONSIDER If modern recreations of Swiss vintage dive watch icons are your thing and you love the look of a mesh bracelet you might also consider; either the Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200 (CHF8'000) or the Breitling Super Ocean Heritage (@4'000CHF). Both watches fit the bill. The 1200m Ploprof is more of a professional diving tool, where as the 200m SOH leans more towards a dress diver. The SOH would be a more comparable alternative to KonTiki given its price and spec.
OVERALL IMPRESSIONS If ever there was a dive watch for the discerning gentleman, this is it (did I already say that?). It will no doubt be enjoyed every bit as much by owners and admires of the vintage models as those who have only just recently discovered it and have a new found appreciation.I recognize and respect the fact that the Eterna design team hasn’t messed with original design and applaud for them for that; the watch will no doubt find favor among many for its pure design; but I can’t help wondering if Eterna have really brought the watch into the 21st Century . . .
[WARNING (for purists) STOP READING NOW] How would the 2010 Super KonTiki have been received if Eterna had put the 'super' back into Super KonTiki; an increased 1000m depth rating, a slightly larger case with brushed sides complete with obligatory HEV, extra thick domed sapphire crystal, either a ceramic or sapphire lumed bezel insert and supplied with a professional rubber divers strap?At the end of day this isn’t the route that Eterna took with the watch; but it’s certainly a consideration for a new KonTiki a year or two down the road; technical updates don’t necessarily mean bastardizations, do they?
I still have much to learn about vintage divers; in fairness I just wasn’t aware of these great icons until I started reading about and collecting contemporary dive watches over the last 15years. Many vintage pieces caught my eye in particular the Super KonTiki that was used by the IDF, however these watches were always rare items, especially good examples. Then there are all the headaches that can come form vintage watch collecting; fakes, Franken watches (made of parts from this watch or that watch), damaged watches, repairs, restorations etc. Also, vintage watch dimensions are for the most smaller than we like to wear these days.So if you can have the exact same look, but with reliability of a brand new watch, and it can be of a fair size, too, then why not? Kudos Eterna, the Super KonTiki Limited Edition 1973 is the ultimate vintage dive watch resurrection; it's kind of like finding brand new old stock Vintage Super KonTiki only better if it that were at all possible . . .
Many thanks to all my good friends at Eterna.
©OceanicTime
From Blancpain As part of its 275th year celebration, Blancpain plans to assemble a special exhibition of vintage Fifty Fathoms watches.Unfortunately, Blancpain did not retain examples of many of the wide range of Fifty Fathoms models which were produced in the half century since the introduction of the first timepiece in 1953. Therefore, Blancpain is reaching out to collectors to lend their vintage Fifty Fathoms watches for use in the Exhibition.For those watches which are accepted for the exhibition, Blancpain will reward the owner in many ways:
A Blancpain 'Swiss Kubik' winding box '275th Anniversary' limited edition. An entry into a photo contest of their Fifty Fathoms to win a new Fifty Fathoms 'Tribute', which was presented and launched at the 2010 Basel Fair.
An Official Certificate of Authenticity to be prepared by Blancpain for the watch. An invitation to attend a private celebratory dinner to be held in Paris.In exchange for these benefits, the owners of accepted watches will loan Blancpain the watch for a period of three months for use in the Exhibition. Some watches will travel to China for another exhibition.
In addition, the owners will consent to allow Blancpain to photograph the watch and have unlimited use of the photographs.
Submission of an application to have your vintage Fifty Fathoms watch considered for acceptance is simple. You only have to send the following information to caroline.moser@blancpain.com - Deadline is October 20th:A total of two digital photographs (front and back of each watch that you are submitting for consideration). Maximum size: 500 KB / picture. Any information in your possession concerning the model (purchase date, technical information, guarantees, etc.). Your name, address, phone number and email address.
Blancpain reserves the right to exercise its full discretion in considering the submissions and making its choices for acceptance.
The owners whose watch is accepted will be informed personally. Blancpain will arrange at its expense for shipment to Blancpain and back to the owner and insurance of the watch for the Exhibition.
We are looking forward receiving your Fifty Fathoms pictures . . .