2025-01-24

AQUASTAR Benthos Heritage II [good shrinkage]

Downsizing, shrinkflation, George Costanza in The Hamptons, in whatever form your shrinkage comes, it can spell bad news but here's some shrinkage I think you’ll appreciate. Aquastar, an emerging but by no means inconsequential name in traditional Swiss diver’s and nautical watches, that I might add burst back onto the scene only a few short years ago and to much acclaim, has just opened up a new chapter in their ongoing Benthos Heritage chronicle, bringing one of their most beloved silhouettes into the 21st Century. Yet it was barely the twenty-first century when I first found myself up to my ears in this immersive pursuit, this beautiful collision of worlds, the one of horology with that of undersea exploration, finding myself captivated by a watch, a diver’s watch. I wish I could tell you it was an old Benthos or Deepstar, but that’d be fibbing. Nevertheless, it was a SuperOcean, 41 millimeters of Stainless steel and rated to 1624 meters no less, and I adored it. I eventually traded it in for something bigger and better, a 44-mm Seawolf, where I found myself at the foot of a rapidly growing trend that would see watch cases reaching the unwieldy, and comical size of 50 millimeters in diameter and beyond! Common sense however prevailed, and I think most of us rarely invested in anything bigger than 45 or 46-mm, max. And although going up from 41 to 44-mm was noticeable, I quickly adapted. And I kind of found my sweet spot there at 44mm.

And then we got hit out of the left field by a global pandemic. Two years later war broke out in Europe for the first time in 75 years, and the pendulum started to swing in the other direction. 

Horological trend-setters once again began to favor more traditional 38 or even 36-mm case sizes, leaving the clown-shoe-sized offerings languishing on the shelves where they probably belonged.

But what about tool watches? I hear you ask. Because by their very nature, they’ve always been the big bruisers of the industry alongside pilot watches. Specifically diver's watches with their robust cases and increased levels of water-resistance. Surely we won't see these types of watches shrink in size? Those that were designed for real men. You know, big, burly chaps, hairy-wristed, cigar-smoking, red meat-eating, shark-wrangling chaps like you and me, surely they’d continue to adopt larger case sizes? You're right, they did and they have. Right up until now, that is. Instep the new Benthos Heritage II from Aquastar, measuring a not-so-poultry 40-mm in diameter, fashioned from high-quality, high-resistance 904L Stainless steel. No, not common-as-muck 316L, but Rolex, Omega Proplof and Aquastar Benthos-adopted 904L steel. However with its water-resistance accordingly readjusted from 500m to a still respectable 300m, perhaps owing to the compact form factor but also, to help more clearly distinguish it from its bigger brothers, bearing the Benthos 500 name. Meet the Aquastar Benthos Heritage I’s scrappy little brother, the Benthos Heritage II, that little guy in the bar who’s always up for a fight, smaller perhaps but by no means diminutive and just as capable as any other Benthos! This historic diver, the third member of the iconic Benthos family, hailing from Aquastar’s modern dynasty, will surely capture the hearts of dive watch enthusiasts and collectors worldwide as it makes its debut at the start of a new year. Inspired by the legendary Aquastar Benthos from the 1970s, the Benthos Heritage II is not merely a re-edition but a visionary interpretation of how the original creators might’ve evolved this horological icon. Drawing inspiration from recently discovered sketches in the Aquastar archives, this new model seamlessly blends vintage character with modern stature. “The Benthos Heritage II represents a perfect fusion of our rich diving heritage of the Benthos and contemporary proportions of 40mm and 12mm height," said Rick Marei, CEO of Aquastar. "It's a testament to our commitment to carry the torch of our founders into a bright future for Aquastar." At the heart of the Benthos Heritage II is a series of core characteristics that were requested by the Aquastar community over the past 5 years. “We listened carefully to the feedback and requests of our supportive community on our official forum and on social media, and incorporated these features into the Benthos Heritage II”, said Rick Marei, CEO of Aquastar. **BENTHOS iconic Design:** Echoing the archival sketches, the watch boasts two signature crowns positioned at 2 and 4 o'clock, offering both functionality and distinctive aesthetics. **Modern Proportions:** With a 40mm case diameter and a slim 11.9mm profile, the Benthos Heritage II caters to modern tastes while ensuring comfort on any wrist. **Premium Materials:** Crafted from corrosion-resistant 904L stainless steel, this timepiece is built to withstand the rigors of deep-sea exploration, crowned with a Ceramic bezel with applied luminous markers. **Helium Escape Valve:** A Helium escape valve at 4 o'clock enhances the watch's professional diving capabilities. **Swiss-Made Excellence:** Powered by the Selitta SW200-1 Swiss-made caliber, the Benthos Heritage II promises unparalleled value.

Thoughts? The Benthos Heritage II in 40-mm, it was meant to be. It will no doubt garner the already revered purveyor of Swiss diver's watches some new fans while offering a Benthos that'll sit a little more discreetly on our wrists when we're wearing more formal attire. 

But how about the winding crown placement at 2 o’clock? Surely 4 o’clock would’ve been more intuitive? I thought about it, and for diving, having the HEV at 4 o'clock makes more sense. 

It's certainly something you guys can discuss among yourselves. But without the manual HEV, it'd be a bit of an odd duck. 

It's exciting to see a new Heritage models as they usually pave the way for the next Aquastar archival release while providing an affordable yet satisfying sample of the brand's ever-growing portfolio. I can't wait to see what's next!

 

2024-12-22

DEEP BLUE Watches DayNight OPS PRO [PEARL DIVER]

DEEP BLUE with more lights than a blinking Christmas tree! 

Unveiling the new DAYNIGHT OPS PRO Tritium Tubes Automatic Diver, another trusted diving companion from DEEP BLUE with two alluring looks.

Scuba divers, desk divers, prepare to be mesmerized by DEEP BLUE’s stunning, premium quality MOP dial that will have you aching for the deep blue sea. The new DAYNIGHT OPS PRO Tritium Tubes Automatic Diver has arrived just in time for Christmas, and it's just about everything you could ask Santa for in a dive watch, and more. Powered by a Citizen Miyota Hi Beat 9015 Automatic Movement, boasting 28,800 vibrations per hour (VPH) and 24 jewels with a date function, it promises accuracy and reliability under the most demanding conditions.

The watch features a Grade A Cultured Mother of Pearl Dial, available in a stunning white finish. 

The 316L Stainless steel case and very good looking Stainless steel 120-click unidirectional bezel with its raised dive-time scale ensure that it can withstand the harshest adventures on land and sea.

Its robust construction is complemented by a scratch-resistant, AR-coated Sapphire crystal, which is nearly indestructible. 

Water-resistance is crucial for any dive watch, and the DAYNIGHT OPS PRO delivers with an impressive 300m/1000 feet rating.

The screw-down case-back and crown further ensure that water stays out, no matter how deep you dive. 

One of the standout features of this watch or any DEEP BLUE timepiece is its tritium tubes.

With a tube at 12 o'clock and additional tubes for each hour marker (1-11), as well as the hour, minute, and second hands, you'll enjoy unparalleled luminescence. No matter how dark your underwater environment or indeed your bedroom is, you'll always be able to read the time clearly. The watch comes with a Stainless steel bracelet featuring 24mm lugs, screw links, regular links, and half links for a perfect fit. It also includes a diver's extension, four micro adjustments, and a folding safety clasp to ensure it stays securely on your wrist. The DAYNIGHT OPS PRO Tritium Tubes Automatic is the ultimate dive watch that combines elegance, functionality, and durability.

Whether you're an avid diver or a watch enthusiast, this new offering is a strong contender for your next DB. 

Stay tuned for more updates on DB's latest and greatest dive watches!

 http://www.deepbluewatches.com/

2024-12-15

ZRC SECURICODE [rebirth and rivalry]

Sibling rivalry reborn, ZRC has unveiled a new collection of divers for its 120th anniversary that hearkens back to the brands historic archive of the 1960s.

Boasting the evocative SECURICODE name these three vintage-inspired brothers, cut from the same cloth of bygone sensibility and modern innovation vie for our attention – 

with three distinct looks made in various materials thus branching out with a new and exciting offshoot from ZRC’s family tree.

As ZRC forges ahead with its journey of a modern reinterpretation with the iconic Grands Fonds S1, a new challenge has steered them into uncharted waters where the promise of discovery and adventure awaits. 

ZRC’s story began in 1958 when the French Navy issued a call for tenders for the production of deep-sea diving watches. This information was passed on to Louis BRUNET, CEO of ZRC.

At that time, the brand was, among other things, specialized in the manufacture of water-resistant cases. Quickly, the excitement spread through ZRC’s workshops. 

A study launched for the Annecy Lake firefighter divers helped to strengthen the presentation to the Navy.

The final prototype of the S1, equipped with a FELSA 4000, was presented in 1959. Tested for nearly 6 months, the S1 was finally approved by the Navy, giving birth to the first ZRC diver’s watch. 

The S1 stands out with an attractive time only presentation on its dial, where the “guilloché” indexes feature an elegant, slender leaf shape enhanced by its classic diver’s bezel. The uncluttered design provides precise time-reading.

In 1965, the SECURICODE made waves as the very first diving watch capable of providing advanced immersion times at various depths. 

It retained the effective aesthetics of the S1, and the name SECURICODE became iconic after winning 1st prize at the 11th Inventors’ Exhibition in Brussels.

For 2024, ZRC reconnects with its bold design and celebrates the jubilee of the S1 with a collection, bearing the emblematic SECURICODE name. All SECURICODE models feature the S1’s historic Magnum-type hands and a lollipop second hand, adorned with beige or green Super-LumiNova® depending on the version. Their black dials in solid “guilloché” brass are topped with a blue anti-reflective sapphire crystal, which take on marine hues in the sunlight. This evocation of oceanic color makes it easy to read in all conditions.

For uncompromising versatility and to be worn on both men’s and women’s wrists, all SECURICODE watches combine their vintage personality with certified water-resistance to a depth of 300 meters (30 bars), thanks to a 39mm case combined with the brand’s renowned engineered deformation case-back. 

With the SECURICODE Diver 300, ZRC marks the grand return of its very first diving watch.

SECURICODE Diver 300 Steel: Its double-thickness “guilloché” brass dial integrates a stainless steel case with a bezel and insert machined from the same material. The whole has a circular brushed finish, just like the original models. 

This contemporary reinterpretation is accompanied by a resolutely retro-chic expansion band bearing ZRC signature. The hands are powered by a high-performance SW200-1 automatic movement in its elaborated version.

SECURICODE Diver 300 Steel/Ceramic with date: The SECURICODE family also expands with a model combining a stainless steel case with a bezel featuring a scratch-resistant ceramic insert. 

A distinctive feature of this model is the date positioned at 3 o'clock on the dial. A Tropic rubber strap inspired by those made in the 70's, reinforces its sporty chic personality.

SECURICODE Diver 300 Limited Edition Bronze/Ceramic with date: ZRC celebrates its new collection with a limited edition featuring a forged bronze case. The watch takes up the features of the SECURICODE Diver 300 Steel/Ceramic with date. 

The hands and hour-markers are finished in Super-LumiNova® eggshell to match the color of the case. For a perfect look, this edition is worn on a vintage leather strap. 

All SECURICODE come with a cap specially developed for the occasion, and are beautifully presented in a gift bag featuring vintage advertising.

Thoughts? While ZRC provides technical sophistication in the Grand Fonds family of watches, for its sober charm and elegance, the brotherhood of the SECURICODE Diver 300 is here. 

We start off with three strong contenders in Steel, Steel and Ceramic and Bronze and Ceramic but rest assured, the SECURICODE provides the perfect canvas for endless possibilities. 

I cannot wait to see what the future holds for this new collection. Furthermore you cannot help but be smitten with the SECURICODE’s cherubim appeal. 

It has all the charm of an adorable, chubby-cheeked, chunky armed cherub. The chunky case, the short but stout Magnum-type hands, the maxi twelve-hour bezel marker and its oversized crown, as adorable as cupid with his bow at the ready!

2024-12-14

AQUASTAR: Traditional Swiss Diving Tools [where tradition meets innovation]

AQUASTAR, once pioneer of the diving watch industry, has resurfaced to reclaim its throne as a bastion of traditional Swiss (tool) watchmaking, seamlessly blending history with modern innovation. Since their renaissance, Aquastar has been diligently reestablishing itself as one of the most consequential names in traditional Swiss diver's watches. Originally technical innovators and early pioneers in the diving watch industry, Aquastar timepieces were sold as indispensable diving instruments alongside scuba diving equipment. To divers, these watches were perhaps as vital as the breathing apparatus that they were sold alongside. As far removed from the glittering display cabinets of luxury retailers as hammers and chisels were. They were actual tools, not in name alone. Today, the modern-day Aquastar has firmly planted itself in the collectors' and enthusiasts' market. It straddles the world of high-end Swiss watchmaking and the hugely popular retro-tool-watch space, competing with household names like Tudor and Oris, as well as the burgeoning micro-brand space. Yet, this historic mark strives to set itself apart, striking the balance between high-end luxury and rugged utilitarian Swiss watchmaking, and with a reasonable price point to boot, made even more reasonable when pre-order pricing is taken advantage of. Under the stewardship of Rick Marei, a dive watch historian and the modern-day skipper of Aquastar, the brand has already brought to market several fan favorites from their extensive historical archives.

Marei, with his almost Midas-like touch for bygone-era diver's watches, has been responsible for the resurrection of Aquastar, Aquadive, Doxa, Jenny, and Synchron, as well as the famous ISOfrane and Tropic strap companies.

  

Some of Aquastar’s standout features include: a Diver's Bezel with a Military No-Decompression Table: as seen on the Deepstar Re-Edition. And a Minute-Creeper Elapsed Dive Time Indicator: as found on the Benthos 500 Founder’s Edition.

Meanwhile Aquastar has remained true to its identity. Iconic models like the Deepstar with its striking monocompax (big eye) chronograph counter, the Model 60 and the Benthos 500 have rekindled a dormant flame in the hearts of enthusiasts, world over. 

 

While their current lineup employs the latest materials and manufacturing techniques and in some instances even manufacture calibers, they seldom deviate from their archives, methodically working through their historic designs, leaving their loyal following wondering with bated breath what will come next.

And rather than being swayed by the latest trends, they could themselves be considered trend-setters. If we are to look at what lies at the very core of the collectors’ market, the popular retro vintage tool diver, it was in fact Doxa under Rick Marei that was largely responsible for the resurgence and repolarization of this enduring trend. If you are new to the Aquastar brand, but familiar with Doxa, or Tudor's Black Bay, or even the Oris Divers’ Sixty-Five and the like, know this, that we have Rick Marie to thank, one of the earliest proponents of these popular retrospective vintage designs. As a traditional Swiss independent brand that once stood at the forefront of technical innovation, we can look forward to Aquastar continuing to lean into their traditional technical roots, perhaps even exploring modern case materials such as Grade 5 Titanium or composite materials. Reflecting on their early adoption of 904L Steel and the use of fiberglass for the Glasstar, innovation is embedded in their DNA.

Currently Aquastar offers an impressive range of divers, the BENTHOS 500 FOUNDERS EDITION, the DEEPSTAR II POLARSTAR & the AIRSTAR models are their newest editions to the lineup.  

In addition to those, Aquastar has just launched the NEW Benthos H1 BLUE EDITION.

 

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