2022-09-12

TUDOR PELAGOS 39 [shrinkage]

Tudor’s consummate diver’s model, the PELAGOS has experienced some unfortunate swimming pool shrinkage; 

remember that Seinfeld episode in the Hamptons? I was in the pool! I degrees; it’s still the same great watch only a millimetre or two smaller and now also sans date!

Featuring a Grade 2 Titanium case, luminescent ceramic composite monobloc hour markers, a rapid adjustment system for the clasp and a diver’s extension, this is the new Pelagos 39. Tudor’s professional diver’s watch the Pelagos 39 infuses the brands decades of diving heritage with the versatility of a 39-millimetre case along with the radiance of sunray satin finishing on its bezel and dial.

The result is a diver’s watch that offers both cutting-edge watchmaking technology in addition to a classic aesthetic that invites plenty of on and offshore wrist-time. 

It is also powered by a movement that allows you to put the watch down for the whole weekend (should you wish) and crack on again on Monday morning without the need for resetting the time.

Here are some key features of this new slightly reduced Pelagos – as you’ll see the watch retains all those features that make the Pelagos such a highly regarded diver’s watch. 

While the Pelagos, Pelagos LHD and Pelagos FXD models were aimed at more technical diving, offering specialized functions for relatively niche professional divers, the new Pelagos 39 offers not only compactness and versatility but also accessibility.

It remains a traditional-styled mechanical divers' watch but perhaps leaning more towards those touches of refinement and elegance found in new features such as its sunray satin finished dial and bezel inlay. However the Pelagos 39 still manages to strike a happy balance between luxury and utility thanks to an entirely satin-brushed case which is in keeping with overall aesthetic of Tudor’s Pelagos product line.

The toolish exterior thus contrasts perfectly with the radiance of its bezel inlay, which is made of black ceramic with an enhanced sunray satin finish, featuring a graduated scale in white luminous material. 

Meanwhile there is a subtle overhang as the bezel’s diameter ever so slightly exceeds the middle case allowing for a more assured grip.

The dials’ applied hour markers have been made from monobloc luminescent ceramic composite, a new feature that not only enhances the watch’s looks, but considerably increases the luminescence of the hour markers. 

The dial comprises of two main elements, said sunray satin finish flat disc whose subtle shine contrasts with the matt finish of the 45° conical bead-blasted rehaut.

Meanwhile, the Pelagos name pops like lipstick in glossy cherry red at 6 o'clock, disrupting the model’s two-tone color palette – this is also a nod to the famous Submariner from the big sister brand. The Pelagos 39 model is powered by the Manufacture Calibre MT5400. Its construction has been designed to ensure robustness, longevity, reliability and precision due to its variable inertia balance, which is held in place by a sturdy traversing bridge with two points of fixation. Thanks to this balance and the non-magnetic silicon balance spring, the Manufacture Calibre MT5400 has been certified as a chronometer by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily running of a watch of between -4 and +6 seconds in relation to absolute time in a single movement, TUDOR insists on between -2 and +4 seconds’ variation in its running when it is completely assembled.

Another notable feature is that the power-reserve of Manufacture Calibre MT5400 is what Tudor likes to call "weekend-proof" – 

offering approximately 70 hours, which enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to wind it.

The Pelagos 39 model is supplied with an entirely satin-brushed Grade 2 Titanium bracelet that is equipped with the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp for rapid length adjustment.

Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five positions, this system allows the wearer to carry out a fine, instant adjustment of the total length of the bracelet along an adjustment window of 8 millimeters. 

This clasp also has a 25-millimetre bracelet extension function to allow the watch to be worn over a wetsuit.

The Pelagos 39 comes with a second strap made of black rubber, with a titanium pin buckle, that attaches to the case with Titanium end links. 

Also included is a rubber extension piece that makes it possible to lengthen the strap even further, by up to 110 millimeters. MSRP is 4,530USD.

Thoughts? What’s not to like? Oh, yeah the size! 

It’s two or three millimeters too small for me but likely it hits the sweet spot for so many of Tudor’s customer base and now means the Pelagos can be equally enjoyed by all; him, her and even they! 

The new hour markers are very cool; the lack of date - even better. The new radial touches on the dial and bezel will appeal to anyone who has ever felt that the Pelagos was a little bland.

But for me as incredibly subtle as the new dial and bezel finishing is - it is the lack of such finishing that has always drawn me to the Pelagos so these new features go a little against the grain for me. 

I’d absolutely love to own A Pelagos, one day but just not this one but only because it's too small. So for me it would have to be the LHD. But what do you think? 

 

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