OceanicTime Archives

2022-09-19

BREMONT Waterman APEX & Laird Hamilton [sharks and surf]

Bremont partners with the legendary big wave rider, Laird Hamilton and the Bimini Shark Lab for its newest Supermarine model. Following in the footsteps of the Limited Edition WATERMAN of 2018, Bremont has finally introduced its much anticipated successor, the Waterman Apex. Embracing life on and under the water, the Waterman Apex is Bremont’s high-performance mechanical diver’s watch forming part of the brand’s iconic Supermarine range. Limited to only 250 pieces, the Waterman Apex like any model hailing from the Supermarine family was purpose built as a tough diver – however with proceeds from the sale of the watch supporting oceanic research for the pioneering non-profit organization Bimini Shark Lab it also has a gentle side. When you think of world-renowned waterman, you could not fail to think of the big wave charger Laid Hamilton who Bremont has enlisted to help wear-test the Waterman Apex watch. Laird is an American big wave surfer, waterman, pioneer, and innovator who now joins Bremont’s impressive line-up of Brand Ambassadors. As a celebrated innovator of tow-in-surfing, stand-up paddle boarding and hydrofoil boarding, Laird is the archetypal extreme Waterman, continually pushing the boundaries of these oceanic pursuits. In line with Bremont’s most technical dive watches the Waterman Apex incorporates an automatic Helium Escape valve and crown protector as well as boasting a 42 hour power reserve with GMT and date functions. The 43mm Stainless steel Trip-Tick® case incorporates a scratch resistant sapphire uni-directional bezel paired with a matt black dial subtly decorated with a shark fin motif amongst waves, a nod to the partnership with Bimini Shark Lab. The Super-LumiNova® filled applied indexes and hands are complemented by a red seconds hand and blue GMT hand which matches the integrated Harbour Blue rubber strap. Upon turning the watch over an open Sapphire case-back reveals a custom rotor repeating the same shark fin motif in blue found on the watch face. Despite having an open case-back, the Waterman Apex is water-resistant to 500m with the movement being protected by Bremont’s patented anti-shock vibration mount technology. The new Limited Edition celebrates the work of The Bimini Shark Lab with Bremont donating a percentage of all Waterman Apex watch sales to support and continue their work. Its MSRP in the UK is £4,795.

2022-09-16

LeJOUR Brooklyn [everyday elegance]

Parisian cobbles meet New York’s iconic bridge in this new model from LeJOUR! 

From the brand whose name simply translates from French as “the day” comes the perfect watch for that (the) day – oh, and all other days for that matter!

Meet the new Brooklyn collection from LeJOUR perhaps the only watch you’ll ever need; sporty, elegant and versatile enough to join you wherever your day may take you. Offering six stylish looks including one in two-tone (gold and steel), the new Brooklyn from LeJOUR makes a great daily wearer or for the divers watch enthusiast – something for those days when you aren’t answering the call of the ocean; which isn’t to say that it wouldn’t make an ideal companion if your day ends up at the pool or indeed at the beach. Its 40 millimeter in diameter 316L Stainless steel case is equipped with a tough Sapphire crystal as well as a screw-down crown that allows for a respectable 100 meters of water-resistance. However where the Brooklyn truly shines is in the looks department; its beautifully sculpted case boasts a combination of finishes as well as beveling.

Meanwhile a stunning fluted fixed bezel frames yet enough stunning dial creation from LeJOUR. 

There you will be met by a wonderful Hobnail pattern (offered in black, blue, champagne, green or Tiffany blue) - known as Clous de Paris.

The dial’s visual appeal is further enhanced with dagger-shaped applied indices and lance-shaped hands – all of which are generously filled with Grade C3 Swiss Super-LumiNova.

Finally the watches from LeJOUR’s BROOKLYN collection are powered by a Swiss made, 26-Jewel SELLITA SW200 automatic movement protected by a solid steel back with an etched depiction of New York’s famous Brooklyn Bridge. 

MSRP is 800USD. 

 https://www.lejourwatches.ch/

2022-09-14

BREITLING Avenger Seawolf Automatic 45 UK EDITION [understated B’ling]

Is it a pilot is it a diver? Meet the special UK only edition of Breitling’s enigmatic Avenger Seawolf, the only watch you’ll ever need if your plane ditches into the deep blue sea. The first generation of Avenger Seawolves debuted in the early noughties, I forget exactly when but I know that I got in the action as soon as it became available and you know what I still have MINE – and I love it. Breitling’s ASW is currently into its third perhaps even fourth generation but it’s a bold as ever, ever bit as robust and shock-resistant, it’s the World’s deepest diving aviator with up to 300 bars - 3.000m of water-resistance. Like all Avengers it is equipped with a 120-clcick unidirectional diver’s bezel with its 4x signature rider tabs there to help facilitate manipulation by all sorts of fingers - bony, sausage-like, gloved or otherwise. The Avenger Automatic 45 Seawolf UK Edition features a sturdy 45mm Stainless steel case, a matte black dial and a choice of either a Stainless steel link bracelet or black Breitling-embossed rubber with a Stainless steel folding clasp. Power comes from a Breitling Cal. 17. This edition is only available in the UK and limited to just 350 pieces. MSRP is £3,700 (bracelet) or £3,550 (rubber). So what’s different? Compared to the Avenger II Seawolf that is currently available in markets such as the US, this edition the red “Automatic” text. Plus it comes with grey hands and markers; a simple white line frames its date rather than metal as well as further reduced dial text, so you could say that it’s a more paired version.

Below is the regular variant – compared to this UK edition it’s definitely a lot showier so personally (being from the UK) I am naturally drawn to the UK edition. How about you? 

2022-09-13

IWC Aquatimer AUTOMATIC 2022 [same, same but different]

Meet the new 2022 IWC Aquatimer Automatic – recognize it? That’s right, it looks exactly the same as its decade long serving predecessor - only this one is blue!

If you want to see what other changes have been made to the new Aquatimer Auto you’ll have to look under its hood because the Aquatimer is now powered by an IWC-manufactured 32111 caliber. 

This rugged and reliable new movement uses (for the first time) components made of silicon. The escape wheel and pallet lever are also made of this incredibly wear-resistant material.

A bidirectional pawl-winding system supplies the energy required by the movement providing a power-reserve of 120-hours. 

In addition to the Si components, the service life of the mechanical components has been further increased with the use of newly developed lubricants.

Oddly there are absolutely no exterior indications on the Aquatimer Auto’s dial or case-back to signify that the new 32111 caliber is within. 

However a side by side comparison (old and new) will reveal a change in dial text / logo font sizes here and there. Also a blue dial is now a permanent option alongside black.

The Aquatimer Automatic is otherwise unchanged with its 42-millimeter case made of corrosion-resistant Stainless steel that is water-resistant to 300m. 

All diving-relevant indications on its black or blue dial are coated with luminous material to ensure optimum legibility under water.

The watch’s innovative external/internal rotating bezel combines ease of use with safety. The rotation of the external bezel is transmitted via a sliding clutch system to the internal bezel. 

The SafeDive system ensures that the inner ring with the dive time scale always rotates counterclockwise.

Therefore, even in the event of an unintentional adjustment, the dive time can never be extended, and the diver's safety is guaranteed at all times. 

Thanks to the IWC quick-change system, the black or blue rubber strap can be exchanged for another bracelet effortlessly. MSRP is 6’400CHF (rubber) 7’400 (steel).

Thoughts? Is it a question of - it ain’t broke don’t fix it – or is this a bit of an underwhelming update. I think they could have should have done a bit more. 

I would imagine the lume was at least updated but surely they could have made a few more tweaks. What do you think?

 

2022-09-12

TUDOR PELAGOS 39 [shrinkage]

Tudor’s consummate diver’s model, the PELAGOS has experienced some unfortunate swimming pool shrinkage; 

remember that Seinfeld episode in the Hamptons? I was in the pool! I degrees; it’s still the same great watch only a millimetre or two smaller and now also sans date!

Featuring a Grade 2 Titanium case, luminescent ceramic composite monobloc hour markers, a rapid adjustment system for the clasp and a diver’s extension, this is the new Pelagos 39. Tudor’s professional diver’s watch the Pelagos 39 infuses the brands decades of diving heritage with the versatility of a 39-millimetre case along with the radiance of sunray satin finishing on its bezel and dial.

The result is a diver’s watch that offers both cutting-edge watchmaking technology in addition to a classic aesthetic that invites plenty of on and offshore wrist-time. 

It is also powered by a movement that allows you to put the watch down for the whole weekend (should you wish) and crack on again on Monday morning without the need for resetting the time.

Here are some key features of this new slightly reduced Pelagos – as you’ll see the watch retains all those features that make the Pelagos such a highly regarded diver’s watch. 

While the Pelagos, Pelagos LHD and Pelagos FXD models were aimed at more technical diving, offering specialized functions for relatively niche professional divers, the new Pelagos 39 offers not only compactness and versatility but also accessibility.

It remains a traditional-styled mechanical divers' watch but perhaps leaning more towards those touches of refinement and elegance found in new features such as its sunray satin finished dial and bezel inlay. However the Pelagos 39 still manages to strike a happy balance between luxury and utility thanks to an entirely satin-brushed case which is in keeping with overall aesthetic of Tudor’s Pelagos product line.

The toolish exterior thus contrasts perfectly with the radiance of its bezel inlay, which is made of black ceramic with an enhanced sunray satin finish, featuring a graduated scale in white luminous material. 

Meanwhile there is a subtle overhang as the bezel’s diameter ever so slightly exceeds the middle case allowing for a more assured grip.

The dials’ applied hour markers have been made from monobloc luminescent ceramic composite, a new feature that not only enhances the watch’s looks, but considerably increases the luminescence of the hour markers. 

The dial comprises of two main elements, said sunray satin finish flat disc whose subtle shine contrasts with the matt finish of the 45° conical bead-blasted rehaut.

Meanwhile, the Pelagos name pops like lipstick in glossy cherry red at 6 o'clock, disrupting the model’s two-tone color palette – this is also a nod to the famous Submariner from the big sister brand. The Pelagos 39 model is powered by the Manufacture Calibre MT5400. Its construction has been designed to ensure robustness, longevity, reliability and precision due to its variable inertia balance, which is held in place by a sturdy traversing bridge with two points of fixation. Thanks to this balance and the non-magnetic silicon balance spring, the Manufacture Calibre MT5400 has been certified as a chronometer by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily running of a watch of between -4 and +6 seconds in relation to absolute time in a single movement, TUDOR insists on between -2 and +4 seconds’ variation in its running when it is completely assembled.

Another notable feature is that the power-reserve of Manufacture Calibre MT5400 is what Tudor likes to call "weekend-proof" – 

offering approximately 70 hours, which enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to wind it.

The Pelagos 39 model is supplied with an entirely satin-brushed Grade 2 Titanium bracelet that is equipped with the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp for rapid length adjustment.

Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five positions, this system allows the wearer to carry out a fine, instant adjustment of the total length of the bracelet along an adjustment window of 8 millimeters. 

This clasp also has a 25-millimetre bracelet extension function to allow the watch to be worn over a wetsuit.

The Pelagos 39 comes with a second strap made of black rubber, with a titanium pin buckle, that attaches to the case with Titanium end links. 

Also included is a rubber extension piece that makes it possible to lengthen the strap even further, by up to 110 millimeters. MSRP is 4,530USD.

Thoughts? What’s not to like? Oh, yeah the size! 

It’s two or three millimeters too small for me but likely it hits the sweet spot for so many of Tudor’s customer base and now means the Pelagos can be equally enjoyed by all; him, her and even they! 

The new hour markers are very cool; the lack of date - even better. The new radial touches on the dial and bezel will appeal to anyone who has ever felt that the Pelagos was a little bland.

But for me as incredibly subtle as the new dial and bezel finishing is - it is the lack of such finishing that has always drawn me to the Pelagos so these new features go a little against the grain for me. 

I’d absolutely love to own A Pelagos, one day but just not this one but only because it's too small. So for me it would have to be the LHD. But what do you think?