OceanicTime Archives

2019-10-18

CHRISTOPHER WARD C65 Trident Diver SH21 LIMITED EDITION

Touted by CW as a watch for the modern-day Bond; this is the new C65 Trident Diver SH21 Limited Edition!

A watch that the British watchmaker also says represents the modern-day capabilities of Daniel Craig. I’m sensing a man crush here and who came blame them; he’s the best Bond, yet!



Following the success of last year’s C65 Trident BRONZE SH21 Limited Edition, this new 150-piece Limited Edition comes with a modern tweak or two.



Firstly, the bronze case makes way for a lovely clean and bright, shiny, Stainless steel one, while there’s the inclusion of an indicator displaying what remains of CW’s in-house chronometer Caliber SH21’s 120-hour power reserve.



The watch’s dial layout blends rectangular markers, Arabic numerals and baton-shaped hands with Old Radium SLN with the most obvious additions to the C65 Trident Diver SH21 Limited Edition being the presence of 2x sub-dials and a date aperture.



The two sub-dials, a power reserve indicator at 9 o'clock and a small second complication at 6, are recessed into the dial and have a circular azure finish designed to capture the light from different angles;

these also introduce a splash of sporty red to notify the wearer that they are approaching the final 24hrs of Caliber SH21's impressive five-day power reserve.



Diver’s features include: a narrow aluminum bezel with applied numerals; a box-shaped Sapphire crystal; a push-in crown and a water-resistance of 150m.



The design of CW's 41mm so-called ‘light-catcher’ case accentuates gently sloping lines with brushed and polished steel surfaces to create a slimming effect on the wrist.



The new C65 Trident Diver SH21 Limited Edition can be had on a Stainless steel link bracelet or with one of 4 straps (2x leather and 2x textile). MSRP is from 2,050 - 2,160USD.



Thoughts? Classic yet stylish; it’s another handsome looking diver and with a high caliber movement to boot.
But personally I prefer the simpler dial layout of the Bronze version but with this one’s steel case.

CHRISTOPHER WARD C65 Darmouth SERIES 1

Not quite hot on the heels but certainly on the same direction as BREMONT’s 2018 MOD collab’ is another British watchmaker –

Christopher Ward who have also turned to the UK’s Ministry of Defence to produce a C65 military collection with 3x watches bearing different official British military insignia.



This is the C65 Dartmouth, the diver of the series which has been licensed by the UK Ministry of Defence to bear the Royal Navy’s naval Crown insignia on its case-back.

Also in CW’s new Armed Forces Collection is: the Sandhurst (ARMY) and Cranwell (RAF) models. The Cranwell is particularly good looking.



The C65 Dartmouth is inspired by the Omega Seamaster 300 AKA Big Triangle, AKA the Royal Navy 0552 which was commissioned during the 1960s by the MOD to comply with their 0552 diver’s watch specification.



As a diver whose roots date back to the mid-60s, which was also around the time that the Big Triangle entered service in 1967; the Dartmouth inherits a style plus features typically seen on dive watches released during that iconic epoch.



The Dartmouth makes use of CW C65 family's 41mm light-catcher case, recalling the slim dive watches worn 50 years ago - complete with old school box-crystal and a sufficient 150m of water-resistance.



Beautifully realized on its back is the Royal Navy's naval crown insignia which has been deep-stamped into the Dartmouth's Stainless steel back-plate. This aside from its color is the only reference to the Royal Navy present on the C65 Dartmouth.



With its dial and bezel both in Navy Blue, the C65 Dartmouth is powered by COCS-certified Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement.



The C65 Dartmouth is available on either a Stainless steel link bracelet with diver’s clasp or a choice of 2x blue textile (one with white stitching) or 1x aged leather band.

MSRP is from 900 - 1,020USD.



Thoughts? CW is on fire at the moment. It is true that the brand lacks the heritage and pedigree of their famous Swiss counterparts but their designs are always on point and prices seem fair.

2019-10-17

HUCKBERRY X Timex DIVER

We can’t all live the baller lifestyle; so here’s a cool ‘n’ classy collab’ from the outdoorsman ‘s online shop and journal, Huckberry & Timex, a dive that can be bought with your weekly shopping!



Inspired by the classic old school diver’s watch, the Huckberry x Timex Diver has a modest 38mm Stainless steel case.



This is fitted with a unidirectional diver’s bezel, a hardened mineral crystal as well as a screw-down case-back and crown.



The case-back is engraved with the Huckberry tree logo which can also be found on the watch’s radial-brushed black dial as a spcial branded luminous 12hr marker.



The case has 100m of water-resistance and is home to a Timex Quartz movement. The watch comes with 2x 18mm NATO straps; 1x genuine leather in tan and 1x black nylon.



The Huckberry x Timex Diver is exclusive to Huckberry. It comes in a Limited Edition of just 700 pieces. MSRP is 118USD.



Thoughts? I am in no way opposed to the cheap and cheerful of this world; this is good example of a hundred buck diver. It has a classic style and it’s a reliable Timex.



However while I realize that 38/39mm is where the current trend lies, I personally struggle with sub 42mm watches, they just look lost on my wrist. How bout’ you?

https://huckberry.com/

2019-10-16

LINDE WERDELIN Oktopus VOLCANO

An Oktopus has erupted from the deep!

It’s been a while since we’ve seen a new Okotpus – this Limited Edition of just 8 pieces is the Octopus Volcano, a collaboration by LW and master-engraver and artist, Johnny Dowell.

With its dramatic cracks and fissures flowing with molten 24kt gold lava, the ashen Titanium case of the Octopus Volcano is inspired by the toughest and most treacherous terrain there is.



Its design and production took a whole year with each timepiece in this series undergoing its own unique engraving and blackening process over the course of several weeks.

The tiny variations in the engraving of each piece means that all 8 are truly unique wearable works of art.



The Grade 2 Titanium case is fitted with a black ceramic bezel; this has a satin finish on top, polished facet and microbillé in each of the grooves.

The bezel is held in place via Titanium screws with a circular satin finish as well as black tension discs.



While the case-back (also in Grade 2 Ti) has been engraved with a multi-layer lava motif and engraved lettering reading . . . “KING NERD”???

Surely not; it does look like it says that but it must be “KING NERO”.



The dial of the watch is a five-layer skeletonized affair with a réhaut at the top and a black, circular Côte de Genève finish, below.

This gets satin-finished Titanium hands with cool grey Luminova as well as some Rose Gold-treated elements.



Finally the LW Oktopus Volcano is powered by a bespoke LW caliber 14580 by Dubois Depraz. It has a water-resistance of 300m.

MSRP is an earth scorching 18’000GBP!



Thoughts? Remember the Oktopus Tattoo? Now that was sexy!

I’m not too sure about this but if anything it’s another highly exclusive timepiece from a remarkable watchmaker. What do you think?

2019-10-15

ULYSSE NARDIN Marine Torpilleur MONACO YACHT SHOW 2019

Here’s something with a touch of class and elegance that has been literally touched by fire!

UN has released a 100 piece special edition of their Marine Torpilleur in honor of the prestigious MONACO Yacht Show.

The watch showcases the brand’s expertise with a Grand Feu enamel dial – kinda’ like a flamed grilled Whopper I suppose only far more refined.



UN produce enamel dials via Donzé Cadrans. Dial enameling is an age-old craft with the Grand Feu enamel technique being a delicate yet ancient process.

Firstly a copper base is dusted with enamel—white and gray enamel for the Marine Topilleur Monaco—then fired at a temperature of approximately 800°C.

The second step consists in affixing the indexes and inscriptions on the dial using dyes composed of enamel powder.

The dial is then fired once again, in order to fuse this new layer of enamel and to level the surface of the dial, which means that it is flattened by a piece of carbon.



The dial’s diameter is fitted to the case, then the openings of the two added sub-dials are fit to size.

The gray power-reserve and small-seconds dials are then tin-soldered to the white dial. Owing to its mineral composition, the enamel dial is highly resistant to UV rays.

The Marine TORPILLEUR BTW takes its name from 19th century, torpedo ships.



Special features of the watch include: elongated blue roman numerals and pear-shaped steel hands.

The screwed-down crown is engraved with the UN logo.

At 6 o’clock, on the small seconds sub-dial, are the date aperture and the inscriptions “Monaco Yacht Show” and “09.19” in red.

The date aperture shows the numbers 25, 26, 27 and 28 in red to highlight the dates of the show.



The watch comes on a blue alligator strap with white ‘point-de-bride’ stitches— a nod to the nautical world.

It is powered by the UN-118 Manufacture movement. This automatic caliber features a power-reserve of 60 hours (indicated by a sub-dial at 12 o’clock) and is e-quipped with an Si anchor escapement.

The Marine Torpilleur Monaco Yacht Show Edition has a Swiss MSRP of 9,500CHF.



Thoughts? I really like these but feel my Marine Torpilleur wearing days are a couple of decades away.

What do you think – are you ready for your Marine Torpilleur, your pipe and slippers?

https://www.ulysse-nardin.com/

ORIS Chronoris MOVEMBER Edition

The month of Movember is almost upon us; which means two things: if you aren’t already the proud owner of a dot ‘n’ dash AKA tash;

it’s time to start cultivating the hair on your upper lip in the name of men’s health but more importantly - guy’s it’s time to get your bits ‘n’ bobs checked out.

Don’t let the minor inconvenience, the mild embarrassment of a health check be more of a pain in the ass than it need be. You get me?!



Oris once again has shown its support for the Movember campaign for better men’s health, and in doing so has teamed up with New York Yankees’ Manager Aaron Boone.

More details can be found on their website.



Movember BTW is an annual event involving the growing of mustaches during the month of November to raise awareness of men's health issues, such as prostate cancer, testicular cancer, and men's suicide.



Oris previously released a special Movember Edition Divers SIXTY-FIVE. For 2019 the Chronoris gets the Movember treatment.



The watch has a multi-piece Stainless steel case with a diameter of 39mm. Its dial is black with rose gold-plated hour and minute hands, an orange seconds hand and white indices.



There is of course SuperLumiNova on the hands as well as the printed markers while the case is topped with a double-domed Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on its inside.



The case-back which is also in Stainless steel is screwed-down and is with special Movember engraving.



Power comes from an Oris 733 auto with: center hands for hours, minutes and seconds, date window at 3 o’clock, instantaneous date, date corrector, fine timing device and stop-second.
It has a power-reserve of 38 hours.



The Chronoris has two Stainless steel crowns: one at 2 o’clock for setting time and winding and second crown at 4 o’clock for adjusting an inner rotating bezel.



The watch is available in two different sets with either a brown leather strap (Movember logo) with Stainless steel buckle or a Stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp. Water resistance 10 bar (100 m)



Both sets are supplied in a special presentation box with a leather travel pouch and a red and white NATO fabric strap with stainless steel buckle.

The Swiss retail price for the Leather Strap set 1,900CHF while the Stainless steel Bracelet set is 2,100CHF. They are as available October 2019.