Could this be the first ever truly sustainable luxury wristwatch?
Ulysse Nardin set out on its journey to sustainability back in 2019 when they were the first watchmaker to use Carbonium, a high-tech material made from the same fibers that are used for the fuselage and wings of the latest-generation aircraft.
The manufacture of Carbonium has a 40% lower environmental impact than other carbon composites, since it makes use of the offcuts of aircraft parts.
Then in September 2020, UN marked their first major milestone in their commitment becoming a sustainable watch brand with an eye on ocean conservation with the launch of the R-STRAP, a watch strap that was made entirely from recycled fishing nets that could be used with their Marine and Diver models.
A little over a year later in November 2020, UN once again innovated with the DIVER NET, an experimental concept watch, where each of its elements were designed not only for durability, but to be as environmentally friendly as possible.
Now for June 2022, that concept has been realized as new limited production series diver, a diving watch made from recycled fishing nets that will become the first sustainable luxury watch to be put on the market and offered in a limited edition of 200 pieces.
UN’s goal is to raise awareness by creating “new from old” and regenerating materials, especially plastic. UN’s designers meticulously decorated the watch, water-resistant up to 300m, with touches of bright green, a nod to nature.
These grren touches can be found from the stitching on the strap to the markers and bezel, including the “double X” signature of the dial, the power reserve indicator at midday, the small seconds hand at 6 o’clock, the UN logo etched onto the crown, the crown protector, and the individual plate.
A combination of white, gray and black completes the color palette of the watch, which beats to the rhythm of the Manufacture’s iconic movement, the UN-118, with its Silicium technology.
The components of this movement are 95% sourced within a 30 km radius of the Manufacture, half of them coming from recycling channels (recycled steel and brass in particular: 100% of UN movements make use of recycled brass).
The dial is more toned down than the concept version of the DIVER NET even if there is still some obvious DNA: the white U and N initials in extra-large capital letters have disappeared to make way for a neutral textured anthracite (ruthenium) surface treatment.
Meanwhile the iconic double X is still in its place, stamped on the dial with its half-matt half-satin finish. On the case back, the sapphire crystal is embellished with a white transfer of the logo of the brand’s partner, The Ocean Race.
The unidirectional bezel is entirely decorated with Carbonium® (Lavoisier Composites). Carbonium® is made of the same fibers that are used for the fuselage and wings of the latest-generation aircrafts.
The manufacture of Carbonium® has a 40% lower environmental impact than other carbon composites, since it makes use of the offcuts of aircraft parts.
Created using a complex process under high pressure at high temperature, Carbonium® is a high-performance material that reveals the inner beauty of the organic pattern formed by carbon fibers that have a diameter of only 7 μm.
The side-case and case-back of the 44mm THE OCEAN RACE DIVER’s are the result of an interesting combination of materials: 40% Carbonium® (Lavoisier Composites) and 60% polyamide recycled from fishing nets, Nylo® (FIL&FAB).
UN has placed its trust in young Breton designers who have created the very first fishing net recycling business in France.
FIL&FAB, a start-up in the field of industrial design and transition, recovers disused nets in French fishing ports and recycles them in the form of polyamide granules called Nylo®.
The strap with scratch closing is also fully recycled from fishing nets, transformed into reels of yarn by the French company JTTI.
From June 2022, THE OCEAN RACE DIVER will be sold in an original pack: a water-resistant R-PET pouch slipped into a dry bag recycled from the sea by Helly Hansen, a brand that is also a partner of the round-the-world race as the official clothing supplier, at a price of CHF 10,900.
Thoughts? I never thought used fishing nets could looks so cool! While I appreciate the thought that has goes into a watch like this as well the level watchmaking involved, particularly with the dial; it’s still a little too over-designed for my tastes.
But I’m sure UN’ll at least find 200 customers. Perhaps they could start producing all other dials using recycled ocean plastics moving forward but retain a more classic look? But what do you think?
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