Dive Watch Releases / Articles

2018-04-24

ZLATOUST Diver 193-ChS БРОНЗА [bronza] 53MM

This is the new Zlatoust Diver 193-ChS Bronza fresh from the Russian Urals, released by the famous Agat Clock Factory after a brief period of inactivity owning to fulfillment of Russian military contracts.



The Zlatoust Combat Diver Bronza collection includes 3 solid handcrafted models hewn from the same CuSn8 bronze alloy that is being used in the luxury watch market by Panerai:

two variants have a case diameter of 46mm; one with the crown on the right hand side of the case and one destroy-style on the left so as not to hinder wrist movement.



In addition to the 46mm models, there is a third 53mm monster (shown here) which is only available as a left-hander. As far as I know Agat haven’t made any of their unwearable 60mm+ versions in bronze.



The Agat Clock Factory has been operating since the early 40s when they started manufacturing mechanical stopwatches.



The Zlatoust combat divers have been in existence since the 60s and are truly in a class of their own and imho are the ONLY true Russian diver’s watches.



If you want to read more on them please check out my in-depth article, HERE. It’s a bit old now but still has some good info.



This 53mm is the second largest member of the Zlatoust family but it actually measures 69mm across if we take into account the monolithic-like crown. However it has a height of just 16mm and a weight of 160 grams.



Current trends for oversized wristwatches are basically dying a slow death and for good reason – even a self-confessed wearer of dinner plates and pizzas, myself I am now exclusively wearing 42 – 45mm watches,

so I have little business telling anyone how this watch is on the wrist other than saying that it is wearable on the average wrist but is no daily.



Remember, that it is also available in 46mm for anyone who is not feeling oversized watches.

My only reservation about these new bronze Zlatoust combat divers is that they have bronze rather than Stainless steel case-backs.



Bronze is far more likely to react with a sweaty skin than steel causing a possible green itchy wrist. However this can easily be taken care of with a NATO.



Powering the 193-ChS Bronza is a Russian (not European) Vostok automatic winding caliber 2415 with 31 jewels, 19.800 half-rotations per hour and shock protection.



Although the watch is not in the style of your typical modern diver (it doesn’t have a timing bezel) it is derived from the watches worn by the Russian aquanauts of the Cold War era and is built like one of the Soviet T-64 tanks.



It has a water-resistance of 700 meters. Further diver's features include modern (non-lethal) brightly glowing lume and a special canteen crown-protector.

The hands are not necessarily Russian in style but are of a much early period and are known as Cathedral hands.



All three bronze models of the Zlatoust combat diver Bronza collection have the exact same retail price of 865€, so size really doesn’t matter!

IMPORTANT these are prices for special limited versions with Sapphire crystals NOT mineral glass which are a hundred or so euros cheaper.



They come on authentic stapled brown leatherette straps with steel buckles and are supplied in traditional wooden boxes with paperwork inside, in Russian.

This model was kindly supplied to me by Agat through one of their preferred global distributors – if you need help getting one, please drop me a line.



Thoughts? It’s pretty cool to see bronze being used for this iconic diver. I was pleasantly surprised to see that proper CuSn8 was used, too.

The watch is of course made to be worn and could survive the rigors of the harshest of lives but for me personally it is more of a collector’s piece.


©OceanicTime

They are quite rare, unique and handsome-looking timepieces – owning one is kinda’ like owning a piece of Cold War history and Soviet military diving equipment rolled into one. Wear it, don’t wear it, look it and marvel at it!

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